Gallows Close Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Well – here goes! As part of the discussion on the Class 325 thread of Will’s I suggested we should start a pantograph thread. Firstly, I’m no expert so don’t expect great things from me – rather we should look at proprietary pans from the like of Sommerfeldt as well as the equipment available on RTR stock (Honby Pendo, Class 87; Bachmann Class 85; Heljan Class 86 etc.) I think we should also discuss kits such as those from Hurst – how to build them, pitfalls and so on, as well as discussing scratch build projects. I see content from other members relating to scratch built AEI cross arm pantographs, and projects to build Bracknell-Willis HSP’s - this will be an inspiration for others. This could also be a thread to show prototype pantographs and associated equipment such as VCB's and the insulator layouts for various classes. To get things off the ground here are a couple of my own models. Here is a class 321 with a Hurst Models BRBWHSP. This pan has been tensioned using three strands of fine copper wire soldered to the upper arm and tensioned before soldering to the frame. The Faiveley pantograph on the class 308 model is a modified Hurst kit. The insulator arrangement was copied from a photo of a Glasgow class 303 pantograph well. I hope this gets everyone off and running – now over to you! Chris. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Im looking at using Hurst LDP901 Class 91/325 for my 325 build which is also currently underway on here. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWJ Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Ditto! Plus, through frustration with my own inability to make a non-wonky pan from the Hurst kit, I'm thinking of developing some etched/cast/fabricated/bodged bits to build my own from scratch, but only once I've finished my 325 project. Cheers, Will Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
halfwit Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Judith Edge make 4 types of pantograph in nickel silver. http://www.ukmodelshops.co.uk/catalogue/judithedge Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
298 Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 The fleet on my AC's uses either Hurst Models Highspeed pans, which actually give an acceptable result once you get the hang of building them, or Sommerfeldt 968 pans with new legs built from C section brass. I'll post some photos later. A few years ago I was asked by a detailing bits manufacturer about producing kits for Highspeed pans, with at least the lower arm and possibly other parts made up from laminating etched brass pieces together, but haven't heard anything since. Etching the lower arm would be an easier way of keeping the holes square and within tolerances, although I'm not sure how you could make the hole through for the tensioning chain. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickL2008 Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 Is the Hurst model currently availiable, last time I looked it wasnt ... im looking to build a pantograpgh for my Lima 87 .. ive got the Crude Hornby one (one as used on thier 86/90), but intend on using the base of this, as a basis, would this be a good alternative way to start - would the base be too large ? (Edit: have checked Hurst models website .. showing as out of Stock ) NL Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
298 Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 Fancy seeing a class 86 with two pans...? Go on then...: http://www.wnxx.com/pictures/86215.htm Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
edcayton Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 I don't know if this is any use to anyone, but I got a news letter from Kernow Models this morning showing a new arrival of a Hornby pantograph kit (X8013) for £5.99. HTH Ed Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickL2008 Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 Fancy seeing a class 86 with two pans...? Go on then...: http://www.wnxx.com/pictures/86215.htm That looks really wierd ... be interesting once theyve finnished it NL Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickL2008 Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 I don't know if this is any use to anyone, but I got a news letter from Kernow Models this morning showing a new arrival of a Hornby pantograph kit (X8013) for £5.99. HTH Ed the X8013 is the Pantograph im using as my basis for my 87. It seems to have the correct length, but the arm and head are very crude and over scale, so using the base I intend on replacing the arm and head with brass tubing and section etc NL Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWJ Posted June 21, 2012 Share Posted June 21, 2012 An excellent re-built pantograph on Jim S-W's thread here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/2486-p4-new-street/page__st__1325&do=findComment&comment=719316 This will be of interest to anyone wanting to scale-up a proprietory H0 pantograph to 4mm scale. He makes it look so easy... Cheers, Will Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CullingworthGNR Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 http://www.dckits-devideos.co.uk/shop/kits_modelling/4mm_overhead_catenery/1_x_fs0965_ac_type_25kva_operational_working_scale_pantograph.php Also one here which looks suitable for a number of applications... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dagworth Posted October 25, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 25, 2012 http://www.dckits-de..._pantograph.php Also one here which looks suitable for a number of applications... That one is another Somerfeldt item, is HO rather than 4mm scale, and is actually shorter in its arm length than the one Jim cut up in the post linked to earlier. With the stay arm below the support arm it doesn't look like any pantograph ever used in UK equipment. Andi Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CullingworthGNR Posted October 28, 2012 Share Posted October 28, 2012 I must be a little more 'impressionistic' than other modellers! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRAILRAGE Posted September 14, 2015 Share Posted September 14, 2015 Time to resurect this thread. Anybody built the Judith Edge AEI Crossarm Pantograph kit? looks beautifull built but maybe complicated for a beginner without soldering skills. though I suppose we all gotta start somewhere? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon H Posted September 15, 2015 Share Posted September 15, 2015 I bought one at the Nottingham show this year, but have not built it yet. Previously I had always scratchbuilt them, so I don't anticipate the kit being that much different to assemble. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRAILRAGE Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 I still have the article you wrote up along with Graham clarks articles on detailing AC electrics for High Gill. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon H Posted September 18, 2015 Share Posted September 18, 2015 Actually, 'High Gill'. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRAILRAGE Posted October 6, 2015 Share Posted October 6, 2015 Yep thats the one! My mistake Curse my sausage fingers LOL Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sub39h Posted January 25, 2016 Share Posted January 25, 2016 Hi guys - I was wondering if anyone could recommend a pantograph I can use to replace the one on my Heljan Class 86, and one for a detailing project of a Class 87 in InterCity livery please? What are peoples' thoughts on Hornby's Class 92 pantograph? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew F Posted February 25, 2018 Share Posted February 25, 2018 Time to resurect this thread. Anybody built the Judith Edge AEI Crossarm Pantograph kit? looks beautifull built but maybe complicated for a beginner without soldering skills. though I suppose we all gotta start somewhere? I've just started building this kit and I must say It's way beyond my abilities and not just complicated for a beginner. You have to 'sweat' or 'laminate' very fine metal bars together that also have .45mm holes that must align and not fill up with solder too...just after you have spent an hour clearing the holes (60 at least) in the etch to accommodate the wire in the first place. They should be a good challenge for expert solderers but my plans for my five 86/87's are diminishing. I'll try not to let it beat me though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted February 25, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 25, 2018 Don't do what's called "sweating" parts together, this involves pre tinning both items and then heating them up together. All you need to do is hold the parts together with broaches or similar to keep the holes in register and run solder along the edge. Capillary action will take it all the way through. Plenty of grease in and around the holes will stop the solder spreading there. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew F Posted February 26, 2018 Share Posted February 26, 2018 Thanks Michael. I thought the two terms were the same but I understand what you're saying. I've built the base and feel a lot better about my build being successful. At first I tried white gear grease to keep the holes clear in the side frames but the solder burnt it away; then I pushed very sharp cocktail stick ends in the holes and snipped them down. This kept the holes clear but yes, too much solder around because I've tinned everything up for sweating. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted February 26, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 26, 2018 Yes, you need to keep the solder away from the holes as far as possible. I use automotive grease, an ancient tin of Castrol which I've had for many years (since I last had a car with kingpins that needed greasing!). Others have suggested vaseline or was. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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