RMweb Gold 2mmMark Posted June 5, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 5, 2018 Ah, that answers a question I had. So FUD & FXD have been renamed to include the word "smooth" which based on the results I've had from Shapeways is quite a misrepresentation. Very tempted by the Dia. 120 Full Brake but it looks like one of those prints where it's difficult to clean up the layering. Pity as it'll look good in a parcels train on Copenhagen Fields and also in a "mixed" on Burwell Fen. Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted June 5, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 5, 2018 (edited) I hope this is useful and sorry to Jerry for taking his topic off at a tangent!No need to worry about going off at a tangent, it's all interesting stuff. Jerry Edited June 5, 2018 by queensquare Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atso Posted June 5, 2018 Share Posted June 5, 2018 No need to worry about going off at a tangent, it's all interesting stuff. Jerry Thanks Jerry. Ah, that answers a question I had. So FUD & FXD have been renamed to include the word "smooth" which based on the results I've had from Shapeways is quite a misrepresentation. Very tempted by the Dia. 120 Full Brake but it looks like one of those prints where it's difficult to clean up the layering. Pity as it'll look good in a parcels train on Copenhagen Fields and also in a "mixed" on Burwell Fen. Mark Hi Mark, Yes, GNR/LNER style paneling is a little more time consuming to clean up but not too difficult. For my own Dia 120, I used a variety of small chisels, of the kind supplied for Xactor knife handles, held at 90 degrees to the model and working between the panels - I also used a small jewelers screwdriver and shaped cocktail sticks for some of the smaller areas. The trick is not to put any real pressure into the blade and let the weight of the handle to the work. Below is my proving model for a GNR six wheel full brake that I'm in the process of painting. The paneling was done using the tools described above while the roof was smoothed using sanding sticks. As I've not added any of the roof details (I need to get around to designing them!) or applied transfers, its all very glossy at the moment; a coat of matt varnish and a little weathering should sort that out though. I really should find some Farish coach wheels and turn the flange off the center one as well! 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
D869 Posted June 5, 2018 Share Posted June 5, 2018 Below are a couple of examples of FUD/FXD prints at various stages of finish. Thanks for that. I've done a good few things in FUD/FXD myself but I'm always on the lookout for alternatives and their pros and cons for different types of model (in Shapeways or outside)... cylindrical objects being of particular interest. I don't suppose you have any pics of loco bodies from your B9C 'in the raw' do you? Regards, Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atso Posted June 5, 2018 Share Posted June 5, 2018 (edited) Thanks for that. I've done a good few things in FUD/FXD myself but I'm always on the lookout for alternatives and their pros and cons for different types of model (in Shapeways or outside)... cylindrical objects being of particular interest. I don't suppose you have any pics of loco bodies from your B9C 'in the raw' do you? Regards, Andy Hi Andy, I do but, not wishing to hijack Jerry's thread any further (I know you said it was OK Jerry but sorry once again), I'll direct you to post 25 of my own workbench thread which can be found here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/125465-atsos-occasional-workbench/ The model had had its supports cut off and an initial coat of paint applied but otherwise is as it came off the printer (which was overdue a service at the time). Edited June 5, 2018 by Atso Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted June 5, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 5, 2018 As I've not added any of the roof details (I need to get around to designing them!) or applied transfers, its all very glossy at the moment; a coat of matt varnish and a little weathering should sort that out though. I really should find some Farish coach wheels and turn the flange off the center one as well! Thats very nice - were they teak? As an item of NPCS I could probably justify one at Bath, perhaps on a pigeon special. I have some Farish coaches to convert at some point - I will put the wheels aside for you. Jerry 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atso Posted June 5, 2018 Share Posted June 5, 2018 Thats very nice - were they teak? As an item of NPCS I could probably justify one at Bath, perhaps on a pigeon special. I have some Farish coaches to convert at some point - I will put the wheels aside for you. Jerry Hi Jerry, Many thanks. Yes they were teak during the GNR and LNER periods (lined out during the GNR's time and possibly until 1928) with part of the roof being scumbled teak during in GNR livery (for details on the GNR livery, see Mike Trices thread on his 4mm version here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/131710-building-and-completing-my-4mm-3d-printed-gnr-coaches/page-3).My own is grained, however the gloss has washed this out in the photograph; hopefully the graining will return once I've applied a matt(ish) top coat. These were exceptionally long lived vehicles as quite a few found their way into departmental service during BR days and there are a few still dotted about in preservation. I've got a couple of tweaks to make to the CAD which includes sorting out an error in the location of the ventilators and adding some roof vents. The 3D printed chassis is practical but it is extremely tight fitting the Farish wheels due to the limited clearances and my desire to keep everything as close to scale as possible (although I suppose you'd make up an etched chassis for this). Interestingly, Copenhagen Fields has some similar coaches but fitted to the old Farish four wheel underframes. If you've got coach wheels going spare then they would be most gratefully received! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted June 5, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 5, 2018 Hi Jerry, Many thanks. Yes they were teak during the GNR and LNER periods (lined out during the GNR's time and possibly until 1928) with part of the roof being scumbled teak during in GNR livery (for details on the GNR livery, see Mike Trices thread on his 4mm version here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/131710-building-and-completing-my-4mm-3d-printed-gnr-coaches/page-3).My own is grained, however the gloss has washed this out in the photograph; hopefully the graining will return once I've applied a matt(ish) top coat. These were exceptionally long lived vehicles as quite a few found their way into departmental service during BR days and there are a few still dotted about in preservation. I've got a couple of tweaks to make to the CAD which includes sorting out an error in the location of the ventilators and adding some roof vents. The 3D printed chassis is practical but it is extremely tight fitting the Farish wheels due to the limited clearances and my desire to keep everything as close to scale as possible (although I suppose you'd make up an etched chassis for this). Interestingly, Copenhagen Fields has some similar coaches but fitted to the old Farish four wheel underframes. If you've got coach wheels going spare then they would be most gratefully received! Thanks Steve, I shall get one of these when they are available. As you say I will fit an etched chassis to mine - I have some of my 6 wheel coach underframes left which I'm sure can be made to fit. A teak vehicle among the MR, LNWR, LSWR, SDJR mixed parcels train will look good The Farish coach wheels are yours, will put them to one side. Jerry Jerry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
D869 Posted June 5, 2018 Share Posted June 5, 2018 I do but, not wishing to hijack Jerry's thread any further (I know you said it was OK Jerry but sorry once again), I'll direct you to post 25 of my own workbench thread which can be found here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/125465-atsos-occasional-workbench/ The model had had its supports cut off and an initial coat of paint applied but otherwise is as it came off the printer (which was overdue a service at the time). Thanks - the layering is quite promminent in the first photo but it looks like you cleaned it up nicely. I'm doing another one of these just now for use as a resin casting master, hence my interest in cylindrical things... http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/722/entry-18393-1907-hurst-nelson-10t-tank/ It's printed 'right way up' in FXD but those rivets do rather get in the way when it's being rubbed down and a smooth finish is critical if it's going to be painted with silverette. I have thought of Archers rivet transfers but those would need to be lined up accurately so to me that's a last resort if I accidentally 'delete' any of the 3d printed rivets. Regards, Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atso Posted June 5, 2018 Share Posted June 5, 2018 Thanks - the layering is quite promminent in the first photo but it looks like you cleaned it up nicely. I'm doing another one of these just now for use as a resin casting master, hence my interest in cylindrical things... http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/722/entry-18393-1907-hurst-nelson-10t-tank/ It's printed 'right way up' in FXD but those rivets do rather get in the way when it's being rubbed down and a smooth finish is critical if it's going to be painted with silverette. I have thought of Archers rivet transfers but those would need to be lined up accurately so to me that's a last resort if I accidentally 'delete' any of the 3d printed rivets. Regards, Andy That's exactly how I would do it Andy. Archers rivet transfers are a god send if/when the odd rivet is accidentally removed! I've got several fish vans (second attempt after some CAD revisions) to clean up pending being used for resin casting. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 2mmMark Posted June 6, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 6, 2018 I use chopped up bits of emery board for cleaning up 3D prints. They can be shaped to get into awkward corners. The GNR 4 wheelers on Copenhagen Fields are from home made injection mouldings by Denys Brownlee (there's a S&D connection for Jerry!), from masters made by Matthew Wald. I have a set of unmade sides which I'm going to copy using resin castings. There were no ends or roofs, as these were scratchbuilt. Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted June 27, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 27, 2018 NOTICE TO ALL DRIVERS. Severe speed restriction on up line north of Twinhoe bridge due to excessive heat. Thankfully, slight easing of the rail joints at the end of the section cured the problem with the rail spring back to its proper alignment. The weather in recent days has resulted in the shed getting unbearably hot inside despite being very well insulated. I've never had problems with rails buckling before. Jerry 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Re6/6 Posted June 28, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 28, 2018 We had this sort of thing happen with Balcombe last summer Jerry. I build in the garden shed (un-insulated!) where the temperatures can get rather high. lt was 34oC in there yesterday! I love this dry heat, it's heat with high humidity that l don't like. When ballasting, the 'Klear' certainly dried very quickly! Whilst at a show last year there was a very fine P4 layout that was having all sorts of problems with expansion in the hot hall and it set me thinking. The track on all our boards and the viaduct now have one end fixed and the other is free to expand by using un-soldered brass chairs. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
manna Posted July 3, 2018 Share Posted July 3, 2018 (edited) G'Day Folks Where I live, we have daytime temps into the mid 40's in summer, I have to leave at least a couple of mill at every rail joint, which dose give a nice clickity clack. Sorry I should have said I model 00. manna Edited July 3, 2018 by manna Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 2mmMark Posted July 5, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 5, 2018 NOTICE TO ALL DRIVERS. Severe speed restriction on up line north of Twinhoe bridge due to excessive heat. IMG_05021.JPG Thankfully, slight easing of the rail joints at the end of the section cured the problem with the rail spring back to its proper alignment. The weather in recent days has resulted in the shed getting unbearably hot inside despite being very well insulated. I've never had problems with rails buckling before. Jerry I'm considering installing a pair of extractor fans in the eaves at each end of my shed to pull out the warm air from inside. This should promote some cooling airflow. Moving over to LED lighting will help but of course, there's no warmth from that in the winter. At present, I've got 10 58w flourescents which do put out some heat. LED replacements are now reasonably priced. I intend to try a couple to see what the light quality is like. That's a very prototypical buckle! It makes you wonder what sort of stresses PCB track is resisting. Mark 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted August 16, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 16, 2018 I thought I had seen all of the pictures H C Casserley took at Bath but at last weekends excellent Wells show I came across this shot of 1667. I new she was a regular at Bath as the late Rev Alan Newman noted her as such but I only had a picture of her at Barrow Road - Bath's parent shed. The picture is dated 1932 but she is still carrying her pre-1928 LMS livery. My model is in the all but identical late Midland livery. The Barrow road picture has her in a line of engines so I took a guess as to whether she was vacume fitted or not - wrong choice! The other interesting thing to note is the tarpaulin curtain in the cab, presumably to prevent drafts - perfect for hiding a motor if necessary!! Jerry 16 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Copleston Posted August 16, 2018 Share Posted August 16, 2018 Nice find, Jerry. Will you therefore remove the errant vac. pipes? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted August 16, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 16, 2018 Nice find, Jerry. Will you therefore remove the errant vac. pipes? Probably at some point although, in my experience, on well used locos they often fall off eventually! Jerry 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted September 13, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted September 13, 2018 Sent Today, 14:18 Any S&D layout set from the 1890s to the 1950s will require at least one of these distinctive 20T brake vans - I want several! Following several failed attempts to reliably cut and shut a six wheel brake van chassis I finally asked Bob Jones to etch the chassis for me which he has now done. I have had a sheet of them done which will leave a dozen or so spare. I will be selling them, not sure of price yet as I haven't had an invoice from Bob but will be around £7-£8 each plus p&p - the aim is just to spread some of the cost of the photo tool. It will be a first come, first serve basis and, unless I get inundated with requests which is unlikely, I probably wont do another run. PM me if interested. Jerry 16 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Popular Post queensquare Posted September 27, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Popular Post Share Posted September 27, 2018 I have just acquired this little beauty, Midland 1P 0-4-4T built to N gauge standards by John Greenwood. Although it has N gauge wheels they are split frame on 1.5mm axles so converting it to 2FS will be reasonably straightforward. At the same time I will swap out the old open frame Tenshodo motor for a coreless motor and repaint it blue - SDJR No54 which was motor fitted in 1928. Jerry 25 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Re6/6 Posted September 27, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 27, 2018 'Envy' button ! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted September 27, 2018 Share Posted September 27, 2018 Sent Today, 14:18 Any S&D layout set from the 1890s to the 1950s will require at least one of these distinctive 20T brake vans - I want several! Following several failed attempts to reliably cut and shut a six wheel brake van chassis I finally asked Bob Jones to etch the chassis for me which he has now done. I have had a sheet of them done which will leave a dozen or so spare. I will be selling them, not sure of price yet as I haven't had an invoice from Bob but will be around £7-£8 each plus p&p - the aim is just to spread some of the cost of the photo tool. It will be a first come, first serve basis and, unless I get inundated with requests which is unlikely, I probably wont do another run. PM me if interested. Jerry Jerry, Could I ask what the wheelbase/length of the chassis etch is please? I don't have a burning desire to build a SDJR brake van, but the chassis might be suitable for other prototypes. thanks, Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NHY 581 Posted September 27, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 27, 2018 Hi Jerry. The images of No.54 are spot on. I take it this is the Ex-Midland 0.4.4T transfered to the S&D in the 1920s? Rob. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted September 27, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted September 27, 2018 Jerry, Could I ask what the wheelbase/length of the chassis etch is please? I don't have a burning desire to build a SDJR brake van, but the chassis might be suitable for other prototypes. thanks, Andy Hi Andy,Ive attached a scan of the drawings, hope that helps. Jerry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted September 27, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted September 27, 2018 Hi Jerry. The images of No.54 are spot on. I take it this is the Ex-Midland 0.4.4T transfered to the S&D in the 1920s? Rob. Hi Rob, yes originally MR No.1305, transferred to the S&D in 1920. Jerry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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