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Just to clarify as I've had several questions regarding the underframe etches over on the 2mm VAG I've attached a scan of the two 6 wheel underframes I have available. This isn't a commercial venture, I had them produced for my own needs and the most convenient way was to get a couple of sheets done which has left me with a few of each spare.

The 6 wheel coach underframes are £11 each and the brake vans £6 plus p&p.

 

post-1074-0-27626000-1538129449_thumb.jpg

 

Jerry

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
...my good friend Mike Corp gave me some SDJR 3mm transfers produced by the HMRC. They are consequently a tad big but I think they look ok and certainly a lot better than my hand painted efforts. 

 

 

Hi Jerry

 

You can get 2mm/N S&D loco decals from Railtec. They'll be much more suitable for this lovely loco.

 

Peter

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Hi Jerry

 

You can get 2mm/N S&D loco decals from Railtec. They'll be much more suitable for this lovely loco.

 

Peter

 

The S&D wagon transfers from Railtec are ok, although there are a couple of font issues, the loco transfers sadly are completely wrong in size, colour font and shading. The 3mm HMRS ones are a little large (though from memory still smaller than the Railtec ones) but in all other respects are spot on.

Ive just checked the Railtec site and the SDJR loco transfers are no longer listed.

 

Jerry

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The S&D wagon transfers from Railtec are ok, although there are a couple of font issues, the loco transfers sadly are completely wrong in size, colour font and shading. The 3mm HMRS ones are a little large (though from memory still smaller than the Railtec ones) but in all other respects are spot on.

Ive just checked the Railtec site and the SDJR loco transfers are no longer listed.

 

Jerry

 

If I recall, there were a couple of different iterations of the S&DJR packs. Some folks got in touch asking for them to be made, so I obliged the best I could based on the info provided re typeface, shading, size etc. This info was provided by some who at least gave the impression that they had all the accurate data (as my knowledge of S&DJR is absolute minimal). Further down the line one or two others got in touch to query some of this info based on what they had purchased, at which point several discussions kicked off and as far as I can recall, nobody could tell me conclusively what I needed to print to make everyone happy, so it doesn't surprise me that there are discrepancies as because of the contradicting info being provided, it was always going to be a moving target. Put that in context of many multiple other topics on-the-go and consistent 80+hr weeks, it's just never been revisited. It's not that I don't want to have an offering, but hopefully there'll be an understanding that unless I can have some degree of confidence in the info with which I'm provided from the majority of modellers, there will inevitably always be posts like the above.

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If I recall, there were a couple of different iterations of the S&DJR packs. Some folks got in touch asking for them to be made, so I obliged the best I could based on the info provided re typeface, shading, size etc. This info was provided by some who at least gave the impression that they had all the accurate data (as my knowledge of S&DJR is absolute minimal). Further down the line one or two others got in touch to query some of this info based on what they had purchased, at which point several discussions kicked off and as far as I can recall, nobody could tell me conclusively what I needed to print to make everyone happy, so it doesn't surprise me that there are discrepancies as because of the contradicting info being provided, it was always going to be a moving target. Put that in context of many multiple other topics on-the-go and consistent 80+hr weeks, it's just never been revisited. It's not that I don't want to have an offering, but hopefully there'll be an understanding that unless I can have some degree of confidence in the info with which I'm provided from the majority of modellers, there will inevitably always be posts like the above.

My apologies, I should have made it clear that they were wrong due to your being given incorrect information. I have used a number of Railtec products on a variety of projects and have always found the quality to be excellent. I was one of those who got in touch with you regarding issues with the SDJR transfers offering more accurate information. I've not taken it any further as a couple of members of the 2mm Association are currently working on pre group transfers and I didn't want to tread on their toes.

I will check with them regarding progress and if they intend to cover SDJR locos and get back to you off of the forum.

 

Jerry

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Thanks Jerry, that'd be great. I'd love to offer something that would be useful to the majority/all - it's just a case of knowing what to make (and the omni-present enemy of time). There weren't too many S&DJR locos knocking around Manchester Victoria when I was a nipper watching the whistlers snake round the corner with the Red Bank parcels, so I'm heavily reliant on info being provided to be able to tackle some topics. Both breadth and depth of knowledge is the holy grail. Now if someone were to ask me where you can find a decent ale along the Manchester / Derbyshire corridor, they'd need to block off a good few hours :drinks: 

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A couple more very long standing projects finished off. 

 

Bulldog No62 is another John Greenwood scratchbuild originally built to N gauge. I've finescaled it, fitted a Faulhauber motor, CT chip and touched up the paintwork where I removed the BR insignia. I've been running the loco for a while in plain black but whilst doing a guest demo at the excellent 3mm do in Ilton  a few weeks ago my good friend Mike Corp gave me some SDJR 3mm transfers produced by the HMRC. They are consequently a tad big but I think they look ok and certainly a lot better than my hand painted efforts.

 

The brace of ballast brake vans were also just waiting for a coat of paint having been built some time ago. The bodies are more laser cut bits courtesy of Nick Bastable with the underframes cobbled together from Association bits. All the recently finished stuff will hopefully be running this coming weekend at the Uckfield show.

 

Jerry

 

attachicon.gif20181018_174437.jpg

 

attachicon.gif20181018_174728.jpg

 

attachicon.gif20181018_174901.jpg

quality work as usual but please tell me  what are you using to form the rooves  and how ?

 

thanks

 

Nick

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quality work as usual but please tell me  what are you using to form the rooves  and how ?

 

thanks

 

Nick

Thanks Nick, the roofs are brass with rain strips soldered on and a bit of thin tube for the chimney. I'm away at Uckfield so can't check but I think the brass is 8 thou or thereabouts. I curve it by rolling it with a bit of bar on a soft mat - actually the yellow foam that Dapol used to use in their boxes which is perfect.

 

I will try to dig out some pictures next week when I'm back at home.

 

Jerry

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Lovely 4F(?) there Jerry! I also really like your assembly of Nick's laser cut vans. If I may ask, how did you make the foot boards for these?

Thanks Steve -it's a 3F, the S&D called them Bulldogs.

The footboards are soldered up from strips of etch waste. Anyone who has put together a handful of Association wagon chassis etches should have a fine collection of fret left overs which offer an almost limitless range strip for this sort of job.

 

Jerry

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My campaign to get things started eons ago finished continues with this latest addition to the stud of Midland 0-6-0s for Bath. The loco was essentially complete a long time ago and just required decals, varnishing, weathering and a chip - a free weekend provided the opportunity. Its basically a detailed Union Mills body milled out to accept a conventional 2mm chassis with a new tender.

It runs nicely and is a sweet looking loco. Overall I'm pleased and it captures the look of these locos with the big Dealey cab which seems to overpower the little boiler. As usual the basic proportions of the Union Mills loco are pretty good although the splashers do grate a bit - particularly in the photo. They seem to owe more to a 1970s Ford Capri than a rebuilt elderly Victorian lady - thankfully they are not so obviously oversize in the flesh.

 

attachicon.gif20180920_171944.jpg

 

attachicon.gif20180930_185712.jpg

 

I do like your rework of the Union Mills loco Jerry. We have a UM GN long Tom 0-8-0 in our dead N gauge loco box. Not good enough for CF, especially with the inaccurate tender, but I do have an Ivatt tender etch somewhere. Could be a quickie for CF, but there is an awful lot of daylight under the boiler. Need to get some 9mm wheels.

 

Tim

 

Jerry

Edited by CF MRC
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  • 2 weeks later...
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Very nice work Jerry, let down by that slap dash numbering !  :jester:

It reminds me of what Ray and Cida Earl used to do on the side of their trains that were never seen by the public - no paintwork at all but with large numbers and descriptions of what the item was.

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The laser cut bits for the SDJR 6 wheel brake vans will be with me in the next day or so. I will then sort them into a kit of parts and can start sending them out to those who expressed an interest - I will email those who contacted me with payment details. Below is a picture of what you will get for your £10 plus p&p. Nick said that he has done numerous spares of the overlays as they are very delicate and I will include these in the kits. Nick has very generously done the bodies for nothing so the body part of the price is being donated to a local charity.

 

I'm demonstrating at the Portsmouth show this coming weekend and at Warley the week after and, time allowing, I will take the kits with me so if anyone wants to collect them they can.

If you've not contacted me already and would like one there are still a handful left - pm me.

 

post-1074-0-96494100-1542118058_thumb.jpg

 

As promised, I will also document a complete build of body and chassis on here by way of instructions but this is unlikely to start before Warley.

 

Jerry

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With Warley out of the way its time to get back to the layout. I've made a start on the viaduct over the Lower Bristol road which, once installed, would enable me to lay track into Bath Junction and beyond toward the station. Most of the pointwork is now built and there is a forty lever frame currently going through the paintshop so exciting times.

 

post-1074-0-77707800-1543396284_thumb.jpg

 

Jerry

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All those who ordered a brake van should either have picked them up or will be getting them through the post very soon so here's the first installment of the assembly instructions, most of which should be pretty obvious.

 

post-1074-0-39396600-1543396869_thumb.jpg

 

First up is a drawing. This is from the long out of print OPC book on LSWR and SDJR wagons so is strictly for personal use.

 

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The main body consists of sides, ends and a floor. The fit is excellent and there is minimal cleaning up. I used Rocket card glue throughout which works very well but PVA would be fine. The only thing to note is that the end with a small door (laser outline) is at the end with windows.

 

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post-1074-0-44982300-1543396840_thumb.jpg

 

Next up is priming and rubbing down before attaching the overlays, this is crucial as painting lifts the grain on the ply leaving a furry, grainy surface.I didn't do this on the original one I built and rubbing down the grain with the overlays in place was a real pain. I drilled a hole in the middle of the floor and mounted the body on a cocktail stick. Quick spray with Halfords primer, allow to dry, rub down with fine wet and dry and repeat.

 

More to follow.

 

Jerry 

Edited by queensquare
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Jerry,

 

I used to use Humbrol "Sanding Sealer" on ply or bass wood on model boats. It has good filling/sealing properties, can be easily applied with a brush, dries clear and is easily sanded to a smooth finish. 

 

Perkins still list their own SS and it is usually available from boat model shops.

 

Jol

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