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GeorgeT's (7mm Workbench)

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Well here we are again with a new venture, as l want to build a few small tank locomotive's on the Southern, mainly the one's that lasted into BR, l have already built an Adams 'G6' 0-6-0T (30258), and 'O2' 0-4-4T (30189).

Brake Compo has kindly given me a head start with the tank side's and cab/chimney from a kit he no longer need's, So l need to get some brass and get started.....


Edited by georgeT
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Hello Peter, Here are a few picture's of my southern stock so far, the Jinty (0-6-0T) is slightly off but l'm sure they found their way down on southern track's sometime in their time?, anyway it is totally scratch built with a biscuit tin as the basis for the main body, brass running plate and chassis, it's a bit crude but it look's like a jinty, need's a light weathering,


The G6 (0-6-0T) is a modified Heywood model's kit, with the shunter's step's added on at the rear, handrail's need finishing around the smoke box, also need's a light weathering.


The 02 (0-4-4T) is a kit from meteor models, with fox lining transfer's, added a cab roof vent, also need's handrail's finishing around the smoke box too, and a light weathering too.


l intend to make a southern region steam shed based somewhere in the south, and l need small tank engine's to run in and out, also l would love to build a small turntable big enough to turn maybe an M7 like the one and Swanage, anyway that a while away meantime l want to carry on with the B4....................








Edited by georgeT
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Hi Peter, Yes the O2' was a nice kit to put together, and you get a few option's too, The G6' was not so easy, but then it was my first ever kit, l only wish l had got into kit building O' gauge year's ago, never knew it would be so interesting and you learn so much more what a steam engine is all about ?


Spent time this afternoon scratch building the foot plate of my B4, have to shape the buffer beam's, but we are getting there, had a nice chat with Laurie Griffin who say's he can supply me with the bit's l need to complete,



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Getting on with the B4, l like to put the fiddly bit's first like handrail's / lamp iron's etc, much easier that trying to put them on last, a little tip picked up om my travel's to various show's, l like to sit down with the guy's doing the demo's at show's, really don't matter how stupid your question, they seem to know the answer,


With the B4, l have quite a few picture's of them and a few drawing's but they all differ in some way, so l have used a bit of modeller's licence with the rear lamp iron's.....


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Hi, Thank you Nth Degree for the comment's, but l'd wait for a better project first, getting on with the build today have fitted the side's and the cab,


Where did they put the coal as all my photo's and drawing do not show any of the cab detail's, l have a picture of 30084 with about two ton of coal on the boiler in front of the cab, surely this was not the norm ??






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Looking good, but I wonder how you're going to go with the flat plate across the front of the tanks. The photo shows the boiler is slightly above the top of the tanks meaning you're going to have a huge cutout in the boiler tube.


Thinking about it you may be onto something. This will save you forming the tricky tank front curves where the boiler goes through. Good idea!




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Looking good George - the coal went into two small semi-circular bins on either side of the cab internally at the front, each with internal lids and their own coal hole door. In the first of the photos below, a coal hole door is the thing with the chain on it at the far side of the cab. In the second photo a bunker lid can be seen at the extreme right of the photo (it is the thing with the knob on).


Given that the coal capacity was tiny (Bradley quotes 10cwt!). It is perhaps not surprising that additional coal was stockpiled on the tops of the tanks - I agree it is something that is commonly seen in photos, although given the notoriously rough ride of B4s how much of it stayed there is another matter!



Edited by Brake Compo
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Hello David, You are correct, l will roll the boiler, then cut a slit in it to slide over the wall to give a nice finish, also cut the rear of the boiler to clear the motor..........


Hello BC, Thank you very much for the photo's / information, but with tank loco's l solder the roof's on, so l'm not too bothered with the inside of the cab, l just put the detail on thing's you can see, yes it's nice to see the inside all fitted out, but you can't see any of it with the roof on, (plus mine kept falling off), so l don't bother...............

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Hello Peter / Rob, made some progress today, borrowed the rolling bar's from the club, and rolled the boiler (three attempt's), not as easy as l thought, really look's easy when you watch the expert's.


l tried a mashima 1830 motor with a bend-up gearbox, and it fit's well, but that's a way off yet, also bought off e-bay some of the black primer everyone seem's to be talking of, hopefully a couple of coat's and l might need a top coat ?.................




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While l was looking for something in my scrap box (l never throw anything away) l found a chimney / dome / and a smoke-box door from previous project's, they are not spot on, but they look the part, l have placed the roof on and bit's just to see what it all look's like, so my B4 has become a Adams B4 ish,


l have decided to put the cab interior onto a removable plinth as it's much easier to model it outside, then just drop it into place, we'll see how it goes.................




Edited by georgeT
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Looks the business with the chimney and dome sat on it. I am glad you are going to do the cab interior, it does show when not there.


To hold my cab rooves on I solder 3 wires underneath, 1 centre rear and 2 front corners. I also a a wire to the cab back sheet, at the top. The front two wires hold the roof in position by being in the corners adjust ment always needed to start with. The rear one is bent to form a spring clip over the back sheet wire. You get a nice positivefit like this. The benifits are it os a clip fit, does not fall off if you invert the loc, and it helps to keep the roof down on the cab. Hope the photos help






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Hello George,


sell the wife, mortgage the house, scrap the car, but please get the right casting for the loco. The smoke box door is so wrong its flat, the B4s had a dished door. The chimney is not a stove pipe one, the dome looks about right with a bit of work to fit the safety valves. Also the front vac. pipe is to tall. Sorry to be so negative on the build but you are doing such a nice job it would be a shame to spoil it for a few quid.


Nice job on the M/N.



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Hello Peter, Thank you for your tip on fixing the roof, may try it on the next project, l do think you are right about the detail in the cab, l have started to do mine, the problem l had was trying to solder in a confined space, but l think l have overcome the problem by making the cab separate, it's so much easier to get at, then it just drop's in. also l can paint the cab interior much easier ?


Hello OzzyO, Thank you for the proverbial kick up the ****, you are so right why spoil it for a few pound's l have been in touch with Laurie Griffin, who can supply me with the part's needed to make it a proper B4, the big problem l have is to what was on the tank top's as all the photo's only show the side's and the drawing l have only show's the side - front - rear, the B4's seem to differ in the position of the dome, l think l will model 30089, and follow the picture, as you can see the vacuum pipe was high ? and as you say the smoke-box door is not flat, thank you for you comment's l really do appreciate them




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Did a bit more work on my B4 today, l detailed the cab, then slipped it into place, much better than trying to solder inside the cab ? l think l will do my other loco in this way.............



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That looks really good. I always make the backhead seperatly, I never thought about false floor too.


I did something similar with Severn but to be fair the back head was separate from the floor as I covered a brass sheet in coffee stirrers to represent the wood floor.


It's looking lovely George.

I just noticed a picture of a nice model of one of these in Martyn Welch's the Art of Weathering on page 48, the title says that it too was scratch built with a few parts from a Vulcan kit.


Edit for typo....

Edited by Rob Pulham
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  • georgeT changed the title to GeorgeT's (7mm Workbench)

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