Modelling Spam Cans (Bulleid Pacifics)

[Wickham Green too]

Sorry, I read your comments about fairing removal as pertaining to the loco as modified in 1948/1953 when it was, as you say, in gauge ........ and, as we know, the goal posts have moved over the years so a loco that was in-gauge back then may not be now.

[Graham_Muz]

6 minutes ago, Wickham Green too said:

Sorry, I read your comments about fairing removal as pertaining to the loco as modified in 1948/1953 when it was, as you say, in gauge ........ and, as we know, the goal posts have moved over the years so a loco that was in-gauge back then may not be now.

And try reading all my reply... 

[Wickham Green too]

All your reply ( "The fairings were inside the gauging envelope and the were removed to simplify maintenance access with the bottom half removed in the 1948 leaving the top half like the rest of the class that were then removed in 1953. " ) made no reference to the current situation ................................ We're going round and round in pointless circles here - shall we call 'time' on this conversation.

[Graham_Muz]

10 minutes ago, Wickham Green too said:

All your reply ( "The fairings were inside the gauging envelope and the were removed to simplify maintenance access with the bottom half removed in the 1948 leaving the top half like the rest of the class that were then removed in 1953. " ) made no reference to the current situation ................................ We're going round and round in pointless circles here - shall we call 'time' on this conversation.

simples this reply... 

 

2 hours ago, Graham_Muz said:

 My reply was in response to your hypothesis that the fairings might have been removed for gauging issues, and as I stated they were not. 
 

At the moment there is no reason to believe or speculate that any current gauging issues exist. (And I write this as a Director of the loco owning company) 

 

[Wickham Green too]

Which is exactly why I was talking in general terms rather than about any one particular locomotive. Good Night. 

[AdeMoore]

Thinking of converting Combe Martin to Lynton for my NCR layout.

etched name plates and decals to remove and replace.

Found Modelmaster but uncertain of background! I’m assuming Red but not seen a clear photo to guess from.

also what would you choose as the decal backing green?

 

 

was going to add a photo I found but copyright listed. Here’s a link instead Linky .

Cheers all in advance.

Ade

 

 

Edited February 19, 2022 by AdeMoore
Somehow the copyright photo still posted

[Graham_Muz]

12 minutes ago, AdeMoore said:

Thinking of converting Combe Martin to Lynton for my NCR layout.

etched name plates and decals to remove and replace.

Found Modelmaster but uncertain of background! I’m assuming Red but not seen a clear photo to guess from.

also what would you choose as the decal backing green?

 

 

was going to add a photo I found but copyright listed. Here’s a link instead Linky .

Cheers all in advance.

Ade

 

Assuming you are modelling her at the time of the photo the plates would be red backed. 

 

Only go for green backed decals if you are not intending to remove the existing  cab side printed number first 

 

[AdeMoore]

11 minutes ago, Graham_Muz said:

Assuming you are modelling her at the time of the photo the plates would be red backed. 

 

Only go for green backed decals if you are not intending to remove the existing  cab side printed number first 

 

Thanks Graham yes 21 Apr 1960 seen at Otterham research has found that snippet of info. So assuming ran to Padstow. That photo would be later 1964 by the look of This photo I’ve just found! 

Showing red plates as you knew.

I was actually going to try and use the bras so chiselled cocktail stick option and remove the numbers.

Would you advise against that?

Cheers.

[Graham_Muz]

3 minutes ago, AdeMoore said:

Thanks Graham yes 21 Apr 1960 seen at Otterham research has found that snippet of info. So assuming ran to Padstow. That photo would be later 1964 by the look of This photo I’ve just found! 

Showing red plates as you knew.

I was actually going to try and use the bras so chiselled cocktail stick option and remove the numbers.

Would you advise against that?

Cheers.

 

My method is to use good quality enamel thinners on a cotton bud, let it soak in for a few minutes then rub the lettering off. my process for Hornby locos  can be read here https://southern-railway.com/2015/12/07/workbench-witterings-3-a-change-of-s15-identity-to-the-maunsell-locomotive-societys-30847/

[brightspark]

I found T-cut on a cotton bud works nicely and it also polishes the surface which gives a better foundation for the transfer and makes it look more like a painted number/line.

 

As an aside, I am doing a Hornby conversion to EM, here.

For a bit of fun I thought that I would leave the identity of the loco out and let people guess.

So far we have determined that it is a Bullied pacific and obviously (as I put it on this thread) a Spam Can. But which one?

I have posted a clue, which I repeat here, as to which loco it is and I invite you to have a guess and post it on that thread.

 

All of us will have a punishment for our announcements.

 

Stay safe and have fun.

 

Andy

[AdeMoore]

2 hours ago, brightspark said:

I found T-cut on a cotton bud works nicely and it also polishes the surface which gives a better foundation for the transfer and makes it look more like a painted number/line.

 

As an aside, I am doing a Hornby conversion to EM, here.

For a bit of fun I thought that I would leave the identity of the loco out and let people guess.

So far we have determined that it is a Bullied pacific and obviously (as I put it on this thread) a Spam Can. But which one?

I have posted a clue, which I repeat here, as to which loco it is and I invite you to have a guess and post it on that thread.

 

All of us will have a punishment for our announcements.

 

Stay safe and have fun.

 

Andy

Cheers Andy I had heard of that method as well.

I just saw great results from a topic on WT using Brasso I’ll post a link later out and about at the minute 

[Graham_Muz]

Simply rubbing with enamel thinners on a cotton bud also leaves a shiny surface as a base for new decals.

[AdeMoore]

2 hours ago, Graham_Muz said:

Simply rubbing with enamel thinners on a cotton bud also leaves a shiny surface as a base for new decals.

Thanks Graham never bought good quality enamel thinners before. I think my local model shop does humbrol is that good quality?

Also with the whole number removal do you still get green backed decals?

Thanks in advance.

Ade

[Graham_Muz]

2 minutes ago, AdeMoore said:

Thanks Graham never bought good quality enamel thinners before. I think my local model shop does humbrol is that good quality?

Also with the whole number removal do you still get green backed decals?

Thanks in advance.

Ade

Humbrol or precision paints are fine. 
 

I always use HMRS transfers so no backing. 

[AdeMoore]

Sounds good I did note that on your web link, do you have a better supplier of name plates?

Cheers

[Graham_Muz]

1 hour ago, AdeMoore said:

Sounds good I did note that on your web link, do you have a better supplier of name plates?

Cheers

I use Fox Transfers etched plates 

[AdeMoore]

Anywhere else for transfers? typical order my name plates from fox then go to HMRS for the steam pack out of stock in 4mm I presume as it’s greyed out.

Tried railtec can’t find what I’m after there, seems a complicated way of doing things.

Went back to Fox but the 34038 pack is 5.40 for just 2 numbers, well the 2 I’m interested in.

Tried eBay on HMRS pack 14 plenty there but not that one!

Modelmaster ummm still searching.

Any help appreciated after 1960 on WC 34038 cab side numbers.

cheers

[John Tomlinson]

2 hours ago, AdeMoore said:

Anywhere else for transfers? typical order my name plates from fox then go to HMRS for the steam pack out of stock in 4mm I presume as it’s greyed out.

Tried railtec can’t find what I’m after there, seems a complicated way of doing things.

Went back to Fox but the 34038 pack is 5.40 for just 2 numbers, well the 2 I’m interested in.

Tried eBay on HMRS pack 14 plenty there but not that one!

Modelmaster ummm still searching.

Any help appreciated after 1960 on WC 34038 cab side numbers.

cheers

 

Sadly HMRS 14 Pressfix for 4mm has been unavailable for many months, maybe even for all the Pandemic.

 

A bit odd really as you would have thought the BR 1948 - 68 era basic loco and coach transfers would be a best seller!

 

Still, there you go. I've been regularly looking at the HMRS website for ages now with my fingers crossed - so someday perhaps.

 

John.

Edited February 20, 2022 by John Tomlinson

[cctransuk]

5 hours ago, AdeMoore said:

Anywhere else for transfers? typical order my name plates from fox then go to HMRS for the steam pack out of stock in 4mm I presume as it’s greyed out.

Tried railtec can’t find what I’m after there, seems a complicated way of doing things.

Went back to Fox but the 34038 pack is 5.40 for just 2 numbers, well the 2 I’m interested in.

Tried eBay on HMRS pack 14 plenty there but not that one!

Modelmaster ummm still searching.

Any help appreciated after 1960 on WC 34038 cab side numbers.

cheers

 

You will find all that you need at Cambridge Custom Transfers!

 

Sheet BL129 at www.cctrans.org.uk/products.htm .

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

Edited February 20, 2022 by cctransuk

[AdeMoore]

Found some maybe old but confident they will be ok.

Jwmodelrailways.com 

I fixed some 40 odd year old airfix ones a year or two ago with decalfix!.

for a fiver worth a shout I reckon.

[cctransuk]

11 hours ago, AdeMoore said:

Found some maybe old but confident they will be ok.

Jwmodelrailways.com 

I fixed some 40 odd year old airfix ones a year or two ago with decalfix!.

for a fiver worth a shout I reckon.

 

As these are absolutely ancient pressfix, I would be willing to bet that the adhesive has dried up.

 

Whilst you can revive cracked waterslide transfers with liquid decal film, it won't work in the same way with pressfix transfers.

 

CJI.

Edited February 21, 2022 by cctransuk

[AdeMoore]

16 minutes ago, cctransuk said:

 

As these are absoliutely ancient pressfix, I would be willing to bet that the adhesive has dried up.

 

Whilst you can revive cracked waterslide transfers with liquid decal film, it won't work in the same way with pressfix transfers.

 

CJI.

Cheers John every day is a School Day!

Learning all the time.

[leopardml2341]

12 hours ago, AdeMoore said:

Found some maybe old but confident they will be ok.

Jwmodelrailways.com 

I fixed some 40 odd year old airfix ones a year or two ago with decalfix!.

for a fiver worth a shout I reckon.

 

11 hours ago, cctransuk said:

 

As these are absolutely ancient pressfix, I would be willing to bet that the adhesive has dried up.

 

Whilst you can revive cracked waterslide transfers with liquid decal film, it won't work in the same way with pressfix transfers.

 

CJI.

Though I do recall reading somewhere in the dim and distant past that 'dried out' Pressfix transfers can be applied in the Methfix manner, so all may not be lost.

In one of Iain Rice's many volumes IIRC.

[Wickham Green too]

Personally I prefer Methfix to the rather 'bulky' Pressfix.

[Cofga]

On 14/09/2019 at 21:01, Dunsignalling said:

Nice lost-wax brass replacement steps are obtainable from RT Models.

 

A decent representation of the weather cover between tender and loco can be cut from cycle inner-tube repair sheet which is suitably ribbed on the grey side. I glue it beneath the little roof on the tender and tuck the other end under the cab. 

 

The stuff also makes good fall-plates that don't cause derailments by binding as rigid ones sometimes do.

 

John

 

Note: This example has gone a bit droopy but it has been on there about 17 years....

 

Long enough for quite a lot of my weathering to have gone AWOL also!

 

What were these weather covers made of? Were they rubberized canvas or just plain canvas? Finally were the sides convex as in your example or straight? Thanks