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Modelling Spam Cans (Bulleid Pacifics)


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34088, '213 Squadron' was taken out of its box to chewck for split gears a few weeks back only to find that I had not fitted the detail or weathered it.

 

However I had put a TCS decoder in it when bought but that turned out to have failed so a new decoder was fitted after doing a quick check of the wiring but when put on the track the loco would go in one direction fine then in the other it shorted the decoder and it fried.

 

A check of the Hornby 8 pin socket under the magnifying glass showed that it was badly sodlered, bridging between some of the pins!

 

So a third decoder fitted.

 

Anyway the loco is now detailed and weathered and after bit of tinkering with the pickups in the tender, the connector between tender anc loco etc. it now works smoothly and it did al ittle bit of shunting with Czech wagons on Dobris before being boxed up  a few days go.

 

post-1557-0-34873300-1412840167_thumb.jpg

 

 

I have now found another rebuilt that hasn't been worked on!!

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I know this is a very simple question (not sure if it is a simple answer), but at a quick glance, how can you tell MN from a WC/BB? Ignoring the original/rebuilt question obviously. I have noticed that there's a huge number of minor variations (smoke deflectors, etc.), but IN GENERAL what are the spotting differences between the heavy and light pacifics?

 

Thanks

 

Count the washout plugs along the firebox. 5 WC, 6 MN.

 

Yes of course there are nameplates and numbers and smoke deflectors and tender variations, but sometimes these are not visible or clearly shown in photo you want to identify.

 

More importantly, it will tell if that unrebuilt MN model you are about to spend your inheritance on is really an MN or just a re-plated WC/BB - which happens a lot!

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  • 3 weeks later...

post-21198-0-75970500-1414741532_thumb.jpg

 

Guess many of you will have built these Airfix kits. I just noticed this morning that Biggin Hill on the box has a front edge to its streamlined casing which extends to the buffer beam, but the actual kit does not. I wondered was this a case of artist error, like the disappearing coupling rod on the airfix mogul box, but have been reassured by all the variations on the photos in the thread. There must be a story to this particular variation.

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The front fairings from the cylinders to the buffer beam were removed in 1952, or thereabouts, on both the Merchant Navy and the Battle of Britain/West Country classes. Personally, I think they looked better with it in place but obviously they must have been removed for practical reasons.

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Just caught up with this thread, after the closure of Willesden shed, it just left Nine Elms as the last steam shed in London, so I spent most Saturdays there from September 1965 'till the end of Southern steam in July 1967.

So I thought I'd compliment you on your weathering of a model of one of the Nine Elms regulars in that period - just as I remember them, it's such a pity that so many modellers find it so easy to sadly overdo it ( a big hint to some :O ).

 

edit; Before anyone tries to be a bit pedantic, I don't class Southall as in London, Feltham was as good as dead.

Edited by bike2steam
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  • 5 months later...
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A package arrived today fromRT models which contained the correct ash pans fitted to a number of un rebuilt Bulleids including 34043 Coombe Martin. I had previously fitted the standard white metal ones but this loco had this other type.

 

I have also moved the West Country scroll up a bit. However when looking at photos the Fox name plates seem to be way too long to me and the Hornby ones too short so the Hornby ones remain for now. Any one out there know more about this?

post-1557-0-02702600-1427834195_thumb.jpg

 

The standard ash pans removed from this loco have now found a new home on 34069 Hawkinge.

 

Ian

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However, I think in it's current overhaul, it might be losing the Raves...

 

Artists impression of finished product: http://www.southern-locomotives.co.uk/Home_Pictures/257_450px.jpg

 

It's tender is being re-tanked in Stockton (North Swanage), latest photo I can find of it: http://www.southern-locomotives.co.uk/News/Pictures/2014/05_tank_318.jpg

 

I really hope they do fit raves, just won't look right without them...

 

From the latest updates on Southern Locomotives website, 34072 is going to receive a 5,500 gallon cut down tender.

This will be New Build Tender 000, which ran with 34028 'Eddystone' during it's first period in preservation until it's boiler ticket expired in 2014, albeit re-tanked. As when 000 was built, it had new build frames, but a second hand MN 5,000 gallon tank. The tender is going to receive a new build 5,500 cut down tank, ordered for construction from an outside contractor.

 

The fact 34072 is being overhauled with a 5,500 c/d tender is primarily so the tender can then be swapped around with other classmates also owned by the same group; 34010 (When restored), 34028 and 34053.

 

When the order was placed for the construction of a new tender tank from an outside contractor, the company also placed an order for another 5,500 c/d tender tank. This tank is to be mated with new build frames to form New Build tender 003 and is intended to run with 34028 when the engine is overhauled.

 

Overall, this would mean that the company would have 4 Bulleid tenders for use with 5 different pacifics:

 

1 x 4,500 gallon c/d - 34070 'Manston'

3 x 5,500 gallon c/d - 34010 'Sidmouth', 34028 'Eddystone', 34053 'Sir Keith Park' & 34072 '257 Squadron'.

 

The decision to overhaul 34072 with a 5,500 gallon c/d tender now doesn't seem that bad, as it has eradicated the requirement for the group to construct a 4th 5,500 gallon tender, as it highly unlikely that all 4 of the 9' wide cab Bulleids owned by them would be in service at any one time.

 

Regards,

Matt

Edited by TheSoutherner
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  • 1 year later...

Hmm, I fancy doing a Lapford. It would have to be in the 1960 condition were the tender still has it's raves.

Does any one have an idea as to which Hornby Tender I should use?

 

Meanwhile here are a couple of shots of my Coombe Martin.

 

attachicon.gif34043-4.jpgattachicon.gif34043-7.jpgattachicon.gif34043-8.jpgattachicon.gif34043-2.jpg

 

This started life as a Hornby Wilton, but was converted to Coombe Martin using ashpans and R/H pipes by Albert. (well before Hornby bought out their Coombe Martin)

The loco was also converted to EM and was used to prove that the EMGS conversion sheet made sense.

If I can do then anyone can.

 

 

 

Edit: to add on extra photo and to openly thank Jim Corbett and Douglas Smith for their help and encouragement in doing this conversion.

Andy---whose nameplates did you use--they seem exactly the right length spanning the extreme distance between the sand filler holes.I have some from Fox Transfers that are too long.

Also do they come with scroll and cabside/smokebox number plates?

Thanks,

Ed

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A package arrived today fromRT models which contained the correct ash pans fitted to a number of un rebuilt Bulleids including 34043 Coombe Martin. I had previously fitted the standard white metal ones but this loco had this other type.

 

I have also moved the West Country scroll up a bit. However when looking at photos the Fox name plates seem to be way too long to me and the Hornby ones too short so the Hornby ones remain for now. Any one out there know more about this?

attachicon.gifimage.jpg

 

The standard ash pans removed from this loco have now found a new home on 34069 Hawkinge.

 

Ian

Those plates deffo too short, (See post below with prototype pic)

Phil

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Not the easiest of shots to see the position of the plate, however the sand box and ends of plate position can be judged.

post-2326-0-45086200-1464864556.jpg

 

.....and another pic of a model where, I believe, the plates are placed in exactly the right position: Bright Sparks Blog pic I believe, so I hope he doesn't mind me putting it on here?

post-2326-0-03922300-1464864650_thumb.jpg

 

I am very impressed with the quality of 'modifications' done to cans on this thread. Inspirational.

Phil

Edited by Mallard60022
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Bulleid Gurus,

 

I have just been catching up on this thread as I have a couple of Spam cans I want to detail myself. It seems they are a minefield so thought this would be the place to ask a few questions.

I have 34043 which from what I can see here I need to add AWS box on the front and move the West Country Scroll higher up. My other model has an as built Tender the loco has the narrower cab so I think this narrows it down to 34069 I have a pic of the tender below. I am hoping thats ok for 069. This will also need AWS box on the front I believe RT models is the place to get these. Fox do nameplates but so do modelmaster which are cheaper thing is which are best or come to that the correct size.

 

Cheers Peter.

post-7022-0-16998600-1466512194_thumb.jpg

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Hi Bulleid Gurus,

 

I have just been catching up on this thread as I have a couple of Spam cans I want to detail myself. It seems they are a minefield so thought this would be the place to ask a few questions.

I have 34043 which from what I can see here I need to add AWS box on the front and move the West Country Scroll higher up. My other model has an as built Tender the loco has the narrower cab so I think this narrows it down to 34069 I have a pic of the tender below. I am hoping thats ok for 069. This will also need AWS box on the front I believe RT models is the place to get these. Fox do nameplates but so do modelmaster which are cheaper thing is which are best or come to that the correct size.

 

Cheers Peter.

Hi PETER--Ref. the nameplates for 34043--Fox plates are 30 mms long--too long and more than straddle the extreme distance between sand filler holes.I am waiting for delivery of CGW plates at 25/26 mms long.

regards,

Ed

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Thanks guys,

The pics I have found of 34069 seen to have the late crest which is fine as I can change that. As long as it's the right tender I am happy.

 

That's useful info on the nameplates I wonder what size the Modelmaster ones are. I am not sure if I will be able to get the CGW nameplates sent over the website didn't look easy to use.

 

Cheers Peter.

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  • 1 month later...

Another question.

I am looking at the gap between the loco and tender. Does this look too wide or is this the same on all of Hornbys re built Bulleid's.

 

Thanks Peter.

post-7022-0-47458600-1470494398_thumb.jpg

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It is indeed a pretty wide gap. I have closed mine up (on a version with the older style non permanent drawbar) by drilling a new hole at the loco end of the drawbar as close to the original hole as possible to leave enough metal around the new hole.

 

post-243-0-85986800-1470495645.jpg

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It is indeed a pretty wide gap. I have closed mine up (on a version with the older style non permanent drawbar) by drilling a new hole at the loco end of the drawbar as close to the original hole as possible to leave enough metal around the new hole.

 

attachicon.gif340132hj3.jpg

Thanks Muz,

Nice model it certainly looks better with the tender closer. I didn't know the newer models had a permanent drawbar. Anyway I will try your method thanks again.

 

Cheers Peter.

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Another question.

I am looking at the gap between the loco and tender. Does this look too wide or is this the same on all of Hornbys re built Bulleid's.

 

Thanks Peter.

I've done a mod with this type of coupling on a few models in the past (MN and air-smoothed WC but not yet a rebuilt one) by making a new pin using a piece of brass tube soldered to a short length of studding and mounting it 3-4mm further back on the tender.

 

It's a bit of a fiddle and quite time consuming but it does allow the gap to be closed up whilst still being able to separate the loco and tender as designed.

 

I've got several more that could do with the treatment but I'm thinking it will be easier to fit a conventional kit-style coupling and a miniature plug and socket for the pickup lead. 

 

Hornby nowadays use a fixed bar and a plug-in lead so the loco and tender can't be separated without tools.  

 

John

Edited by Dunsignalling
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I've done a mod with this type of coupling on a few models in the past (MN and air-smoothed WC but not yet a rebuilt one) by making a new pin using a piece of brass tube soldered to a short length of studding and mounting it 3-4mm further back on the tender.

 

It's a bit of a fiddle and quite time consuming but it does allow the gap to be closed up whilst still being able to separate the loco and tender as designed.

 

I've got several more that could do with the treatment but I'm thinking it will be easier to fit a conventional kit-style coupling and a miniature plug and socket for the pickup lead. 

 

Hornby nowadays use a fixed bar and a plug-in lead so the loco and tender can't be separated without tools.  

 

John

Thanks John,

I might try the Muz method first but if I balls it up I will have a go at your idea. I can see why Hornby changed it as the wire contacts don't always do the job.

 

Cheers Peter. 

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hi guys, you seem to be the chaps to ask

 

i currently have just 34074 from the golden arrow set as shown in my profile to the left, which i have added disc and etched flags to the buffer beams and it looks great. i now want to add to my fleet and get a rebuilt, now i have noticed on some photos that Hornby have produced some with fixed rear pony truck with floating wheels, personally i do not like it. can you tell me which models have fully flanged wheels and moving pony truck? i don't want to be disappointed when it arrives.

 

thanks awfully  :dontknow:

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hi guys, you seem to be the chaps to ask

 

i currently have just 34074 from the golden arrow set as shown in my profile to the left, which i have added disc and etched flags to the buffer beams and it looks great. i now want to add to my fleet and get a rebuilt, now i have noticed on some photos that Hornby have produced some with fixed rear pony truck with floating wheels, personally i do not like it. can you tell me which models have fully flanged wheels and moving pony truck? i don't want to be disappointed when it arrives.

 

thanks awfully  :dontknow:

Hornby's Rebuilt Light Pacifics all have a fixed truck. (I believe) The models are also supplied with a flanged axle, which can be fitted with ease, but really this is only for display purposes.

 

Regards,

Matt

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Thanks Matt

Not the news I was hoping for. Does the same apply for the MN?

 

Hornby's Rebuilt Light Pacifics all have a fixed truck. (I believe) The models are also supplied with a flanged axle, which can be fitted with ease, but really this is only for display purposes.

 

Regards,

Matt

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