Guest Posted August 14, 2016 Share Posted August 14, 2016 Thanks Matt Not the news I was hoping for. Does the same apply for the MN? As the Rebuilt MN is an older tooling, it doesn't. If fact, I think it's the complete opposite - there was no example with a fixed truck. Regards, Matt Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dunsignalling Posted August 15, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 15, 2016 (edited) Hornby's Rebuilt Light Pacifics all have a fixed truck. (I believe) The models are also supplied with a flanged axle, which can be fitted with ease, but really this is only for display purposes. Regards, Matt Locos fitted with the flanged trailing wheels will happily negotiate 3' radius curves in my experience. John Edited August 15, 2016 by Dunsignalling 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
47606odin Posted August 15, 2016 Share Posted August 15, 2016 (edited) thanks guys, this puts me off the golden arrow set thats coming out Edited August 16, 2016 by 47606odin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.C.M Posted August 20, 2016 Share Posted August 20, 2016 My model of 34069 Hawkinge. A basic re number and weather job. I am still waiting for an AWS box to arrive but otherwise I am quite happy with this. Cheers Peter. 14 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Staffordshire Posted September 2, 2016 Share Posted September 2, 2016 Hello, have just caught up on this interesting thread, I wonder if anyone could help with the following question .... Which WC/BB locos were outshopped at any stage in the Photographic Grey Livery, was it just Fighter Command ? Any help, information, photos, greatly appreciated. Many thanks, Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dunsignalling Posted September 3, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 3, 2016 thanks guys, this puts me off the golden arrow set thats coming out I suggest you watch the video of the forthcoming 'original' MN on the Hornby website. Despite being finished in very pale primer, the fixed trailing truck really does look far better in motion (even on their tight curves) than a floppy one surrounded by loads of unwanted daylight. The flangeless wheels are a small price to pay IMHO. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forester Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 (edited) Hello, have just caught up on this interesting thread, I wonder if anyone could help with the following question .... Which WC/BB locos were outshopped at any stage in the Photographic Grey Livery, was it just Fighter Command ? Any help, information, photos, greatly appreciated. Many thanks, Ian I believe a number of the early West Countries were outshopped first in fully lined Photographic grey. The only one I can find at the moment is in Scott-Morgan's book which has a photo of 21C105 fully lined in photographic grey with nameplates and crests July 1945 (not officially named until August 1946). Of the later light pacifics, several photos exist of Battle of Britains in a plain works grey. But this may have been more of a primer than a true photographic grey. An example is in Richard Derry's book which has a photo of 34071 in plain works grey with a BR malachite tender, 12 April 1948 (to traffic 17 April as "615 Squadron", later 601 Squadron) 21C164 is an interesting and special case, being the 1000th Brighton-built loco, outshopped and photographed first fully lined with the original cab, taken back in to have the first wedge cab fitted, then photographed again - but in both cases, as far as I can see, in fully lined malachite. EDIT: See, that's what I like about this forum: Someone asks a question. You try to answer it and immediately you find you are wrong! I now have a photo of 21C164 with wedge cab in Photographic grey............ Edited September 5, 2016 by Forester Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Staffordshire Posted November 16, 2016 Share Posted November 16, 2016 (edited) Hi, Just thought this maybe of interest to some, I personally think it is absolutely gorgeous, but then I am biased ...... Edited July 25, 2023 by Staffordshire Re-attach photos 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Staffordshire Posted November 17, 2016 Share Posted November 17, 2016 (edited) Thought I should add a photo of a stable mate of Shaw Saville above, but in the earlier BR Blue livery, so here is Royal Mail .... Edited July 25, 2023 by Staffordshire Re-attach photos 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoverPriory Posted November 22, 2016 Share Posted November 22, 2016 Probably not the right place to ask this. But for a complete beginner how in Gods name do you fit the brake rods to a spamcan? I have just tried for an hour or so with no luck. Just cannot get the lugs to fit into the tiny holes . I presume the answer is to 'fit ' the two centre lugs using plastic glue (ie forgetting about getting them into the holes) and then botch the front and back set somehow? The set for the tender were no problem. I have sorted out which are LHS and which are RHS. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted November 22, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 22, 2016 I unscrew the plastic baseplate with the brake shoes then glue one of the rods into the relevant hole with superglue. Once set I then drill through the rod with a 0.4mm drill being careful not to break the glued joint. I then feed a piece of 0.33 brass wire through the hole and bend over both sides and trim almost back to the plastic but leaving enough wire to hold the two plastic parts in place. Add superglue then repeat for the remaining 5 joints. Its fiddly but to date none of the hangers have broken off any of my 40 or so Bulleids. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoverPriory Posted November 23, 2016 Share Posted November 23, 2016 I unscrew the plastic baseplate with the brake shoes then glue one of the rods into the relevant hole with superglue. Once set I then drill through the rod with a 0.4mm drill being careful not to break the glued joint. I then feed a piece of 0.33 brass wire through the hole and bend over both sides and trim almost back to the plastic but leaving enough wire to hold the two plastic parts in place. Add superglue then repeat for the remaining 5 joints. Its fiddly but to date none of the hangers have broken off any of my 40 or so Bulleids. Thanks for the help.......off to Wilkos to get some superglue. But I think my basic problem is my eyesight and insufficient hands! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted November 23, 2016 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 23, 2016 Thanks for the help.......off to Wilkos to get some superglue. But I think my basic problem is my eyesight and insufficient hands! I use the edge of a board to rest the brake section on whilst drilling thorough. I also have to use an illuminated magnifying glass these days! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoverPriory Posted November 23, 2016 Share Posted November 23, 2016 I use the edge of a board to rest the brake section on whilst drilling thorough. I also have to use an illuminated magnifying glass these days! I bought some Loctite gel Superglue. There was no way that the lugs on the brake rods would fit into the holes on the loco's brake shoes - even using a magnifying glass held in a retort stand and with illumination from above. So I took the executive decision to remove them and hopefully get a bigger surface area for contact and adhesion with the glue. The superglue was applied to the hole where the lugs were supposed to fit into, being a gel it forms a neat 'blob' into which the brake rods were placed. I did the front and back points of contact first and let them dry (with the aid of a hair drier), and then did the middle two points of contact. After an hour or so I 'topped up' the glue on each joint. So far I've done one loco. It looks ok and seems fairly robust - although time will doubtless tell. I havent got the courage to start drilling at this stage.But the loco I've done does now look the part. And there are three more to do. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoverPriory Posted November 29, 2016 Share Posted November 29, 2016 I bought some Loctite gel Superglue. There was no way that the lugs on the brake rods would fit into the holes on the loco's brake shoes - even using a magnifying glass held in a retort stand and with illumination from above. So I took the executive decision to remove them and hopefully get a bigger surface area for contact and adhesion with the glue. The superglue was applied to the hole where the lugs were supposed to fit into, being a gel it forms a neat 'blob' into which the brake rods were placed. I did the front and back points of contact first and let them dry (with the aid of a hair drier), and then did the middle two points of contact. After an hour or so I 'topped up' the glue on each joint. So far I've done one loco. It looks ok and seems fairly robust - although time will doubtless tell. I havent got the courage to start drilling at this stage.But the loco I've done does now look the part. And there are three more to do. I tried again with another Bulleid pacific to fit the brake rods to the locomotive........again I found it totally impossible. So I have had rods and 'holes' scanned and measured. The result.............it would be impossible to fit the front and rear lugs on each rod because the lugs are 15% too big to fit into the holes!! As for the central pair the lugs and holes are almost exactly the same diameter! Not very helpful.........perhaps some one from Hornby would like to comment? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Staffordshire Posted December 5, 2016 Share Posted December 5, 2016 Just wondered if anyone else has tried to model '34035 Shaftesbury', with its smoke lifting modifications circa 1960 ? I also have '34049 Anti-Aircraft Command' with its modifications, ..... I will try and post a photo of the two models in the next couple of days. Photos of any other models greatly appreciated 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Staffordshire Posted December 14, 2016 Share Posted December 14, 2016 (edited) Hope this is allowed ... Not a Spamcan, but something probably even more streamlined ...... Edited February 1, 2019 by Staffordshire Re-attach photos 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashley Bridge Posted December 15, 2016 Share Posted December 15, 2016 I fitted a set of RT models' brake rods using the thin Peco track pins, they are a good fit in the brake hangers. When I came to do my next one I'd mislaid the second set so I cut the pins off the Hornby rodding and there is a tiny indent on the outside of the moulding so you can line up and drill them with a 0.6 mm bit. The Peco pins are a push fit, easy to line up, and you can use epoxy or superglue to hold them. When it's all set, cut off the excess behind the hangers. Ash. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
malcolmcelyn Posted December 27, 2016 Share Posted December 27, 2016 GT3.jpg Hope this is allowed ... Not a Spamcan, but something probably even more streamlined ...... Streamlined? Do you mean "brick-shaped"? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Oldddudders Posted December 27, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 27, 2016 Probably not the right place to ask this. But for a complete beginner how in Gods name do you fit the brake rods to a spamcan? I have just tried for an hour or so with no luck. Just cannot get the lugs to fit into the tiny holes . I presume the answer is to 'fit ' the two centre lugs using plastic glue (ie forgetting about getting them into the holes) and then botch the front and back set somehow? The set for the tender were no problem. I have sorted out which are LHS and which are RHS. Is there any mileage in telling us which Spam it is? At least then if others have managed it you'll know it can be done. It is possible that recent models, made in different factories, simply have different tolerances from earlier batches. I have done several, all secondhand, without undue difficulty, but next week may be trying with Camelford, a new release. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted December 27, 2016 Share Posted December 27, 2016 I tried again with another Bulleid pacific to fit the brake rods to the locomotive........again I found it totally impossible. So I have had rods and 'holes' scanned and measured. The result.............it would be impossible to fit the front and rear lugs on each rod because the lugs are 15% too big to fit into the holes!! As for the central pair the lugs and holes are almost exactly the same diameter! Not very helpful.........perhaps some one from Hornby would like to comment? Sorry for the late reply. I use a method suggested elsewhere but cannot remember by whom. It involves drilling a hole through each of the pins on the brake rod mouldings, with just enough clearance for Peco track pins, so they are a good interference fit. Insert the track pin through the brake rodding pins from the back, so they project through the holes in the hangers and can be cut off nearly flush. They can be secured with a spot of glue as well if desired. It does require a steady hand and a good eye (or a magnifying glass) to drill straight along the inside of the locating pins on the rigging. I had deliberately left pins projecting in the photos so people could see what I had done. A couple of the photos are a little out of focus but I think they are clear enough to show the pins. The first photo shows the tools I used - nothing out of the ordinary there! This method works for all of Hornby's Rebuilt Merchant Navy, and both original and rebuilt West Country and Battle of Britain locos. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Staffordshire Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 Help, I have a question regarding 34006 Bude, I believe it ran with two different crests, eg a Cornish Crest and a 'Bude' crest ? Can anyone confirm this, and the dates/years of when it carried each crest, Also the colour of the Nameplates,Red or Black ? Thanks very much, the Devil is in the detail ! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forester Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 Help, I have a question regarding 34006 Bude, I believe it ran with two different crests, eg a Cornish Crest and a 'Bude' crest ? Can anyone confirm this, and the dates/years of when it carried each crest, Also the colour of the Nameplates,Red or Black ? Thanks very much, the Devil is in the detail ! 21C106 Named Bude 11/45 Renumbered 34006 5/48 Crest changed from county to town 2/50 Repainted BR green 7/50 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forester Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 More on Bude: Nameplates Red from 11/45 until repainted BR green in 7/50. Then black until late 1950s (date uncertain, pure guess around '59) Red certainly by 1960 until withdrawal 3/67. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Staffordshire Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 Forester, thanks very much , all questions answered - brilliant ! I need the Town Crest and the red nameplates !! Thank you. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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