long island jack Posted June 12, 2012 Share Posted June 12, 2012 Hi I new to constructing buildings out of card/brick paper,need some info about sealing, is it best done before weathering or after or both. next question,whats best to seal with? thanks for your help Ray Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted June 12, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 12, 2012 Ray Whilst I havent used card for buildings for soem time, I do use Testors Dullcote to seal printed paper / vinyls before fixing. This method has owrked well to protect the printed surface from marks. Might be worth a try on a sample bit of card. Leave it to dry 24 hours hten you can try weathering the sample. Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
14Steve14 Posted June 15, 2012 Share Posted June 15, 2012 Try using a matt varnish applied carefully with a brush, or even an airbrush if you have it. Apply your weathering and then seal again. With any card model you have to be careful not to apply any water based products to the printed surface as it is possible that the water based inks used by most printers will run into each other. Try on an offcut first. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tel2010 Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 Last month i coated a sample test piece of printed tarmac with Windsor and Newton matt UV varnish.I put it on window sash to see how it would fade,but forgot it was there when a couple of days latter when i the opened window. Couldn't find it anywhere. yesterday i was coming in front door of house when i spotted it on step.Amazed hadnt changed a bit since printed.If had been outside all that time would have got soaked we have had a lot of rain. will have to try another sample to see if it really had been outside,rain or shine all that time or had it been stuck to bottom of door. Tel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigglesof266 Posted June 20, 2012 Share Posted June 20, 2012 IME putting together Scalescenes and the two dominant pre-cut and pre-backed cardboard kit manufacturers kits, these are the SOPs I've derived. Three years on, they pass the "but how will it stand up over time?" test. For Scalescenes' 'kits' in the particular, I seal after affixing the printed sheet to its cardboard backing. Naturally, wait until the glue has dried. I use 3M or a similar quality brand aerosol spray adhesive finding it offers not only quickest and easiest application, but best result. I usually give the resultant backed sheet a couple of days in an improvised 'book' press out of direct light to dry flat and cure properly prior to sealing. Proper art or photo acid free cardboard offers optimum long term colour preservation. To seal, although I have airbrushes and compressor, I choose to use aerosol cans of a quality artist's matt finishing fixative intended for artwork, etc. Designed expressly for purpose, convenient, no clean-up or prep as with an airbrush, and easy to achieve a uniform light coat coverage with a minimal experimentation and practice. The only caveat I would place on the aerosol can option is do spend the extra to buy a good quality recognised brand. A couple of light coats are all that is needed allowing time for the first to flash prior to application of the second. Sealing pre-assembly is most important because it offers that modicum of protection from scrapes and handling mishaps, and in the particular, absolute protection from dampened rag or cue tip application in removing inadvertent glue spillage, excess or overflow from the printed surface during assembly. With Superquick or Metcalfe, I seal each printed cardboard sheet immediately after removing them from their packaging a few days prior to assembly. With Metcalfe, this is essential IME as their inks smudge or bleed with all too easily OOTB. Apart from the protection during assembly and over the product's lifetime aspects, the other reason to seal prior to assembly rather than after is that it removes the need to mask the often many window transparencies to prevent them being rendered semi-opaque by the sealant. Although I use brush applied artist's water colours and colour pencil shavings applied wet and dry for finishing off with weathering or colouring corners, edges, gutters, chimneys etc after the sealing process described above, I haven't yet found it necessary to subsequently seal them post assembly to avoid colour deterioration or blend weathering, post-coloured building corners or typical edges on gutters, chimneys, tiling etc into the overall finish of the completed building. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 These might help..... See http://www.rmweb.co....for-weathering/ post 6 http://www.rmweb.co....-metcalfe-kits/ post 7 http://www.rmweb.co....th-watercolour/ http://www.rmweb.co....ation-progress/ post 17 http://www.rmweb.co....ures-downloads/ post 20 oh, impressive building, I like the dentilations. Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.