Jump to content
 

Hayfields turnout workbench


Recommended Posts

Martin

 

Thanks for that intervention, its quite a sharp crossing and the timbers were originally under the  crossing tips. Well my rash assumptions were wrong, still perfect timing, just one solder joint to undo are realign the sleepers back to where they were. Well 3 were soldered but thankfully all changed in a couple of ticks. I guess the rail ends take the bashing in the prototype rather than a bend

 

Quite a good time to have a lunch break and come back before too much more was done. Anyway all sorted. Thank you again

 

post-1131-0-64834800-1406465573_thumb.jpg

 

Here I am placing both the Common and obtuse (K) crossings. At the moment just tacking the rails in place, until its ready to  test with firstly a bogie, then a 4 wheel wagon and finally a long wheelbase 4 wheel wagon. Once the latter works I will solder every sleeper. Not too worried about the common crossings, its the diamonds which are on a curve that cause problems

Edited by hayfield
  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Still just tacking pieces together, though the number of tacks is increasing.

 

post-1131-0-64319700-1406485282_thumb.jpg

 

First diamond in place, but just tacked. no check rails yet. Both the bogie and wagon are fine through both ways, now need to add some turnouts to get a longer run so I can test the long wheelbase wagon.

 

I could do with a battery powered loco at times like these, just to give it a quick test

  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

Unpainted hand laid track looks pretty, just like a ditto shiny brass loco. It's thoroughly enjoyable to watch the construction. It almost makes me want to try for myself.

 

Regards,

 

Stefan  

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Stefan

 

Why not, if you are doing a simple turnout after cutting the sleepers/timbers, make the isolation cuts and fill them. Once set file flat then start building

 

I think one the main problems is that first time builders want the turnout they are building finished too quickly, mistakes then creep in leading to disappointment. And it takes so much longer to put right what went wrong if the problem is not spotted earlier. That's why I am tacking the rails down rather than soldering every sleeper/rail joint until I know it works.

 

Copperclad turnouts once painted and ballasted fades into the scene but looks so much better than a ready to plonk item 

Link to post
Share on other sites

In between going to a BBQ yesterday pm I managed some work on the unit

 

I shared a photo of the crossing yesterday

 

post-1131-0-73376200-1406567703_thumb.jpg

 

Here is the unit with a bit more work, a few more stock and wing rails fitted. Before I start soldering the joints in earnest I want to test thoroughly first for smoothness. These curved crossings age a bit problematic, in that inertia wants to take then off in a different direction, un-like a straight one where inertia takes the stock straight across. Last night all  exits to the diamond worked well with the bogie and wagon, but the SR utility van (long wheelbase) had a problem on one exit. It was late so I gave up. 

 

Had a plan of action to find the fault, the first was to check the back to back of the wheels. Guess what they were out, fine for 00 gauge but not 00fs

post-1131-0-48354400-1406567691_thumb.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Stefan

 

Why not, if you are doing a simple turnout after cutting the sleepers/timbers, make the isolation cuts and fill them. Once set file flat then start building

 

I think one the main problems is that first time builders want the turnout they are building finished too quickly, mistakes then creep in leading to disappointment. And it takes so much longer to put right what went wrong if the problem is not spotted earlier. That's why I am tacking the rails down rather than soldering every sleeper/rail joint until I know it works.

 

Copperclad turnouts once painted and ballasted fades into the scene but looks so much better than a ready to plonk item

 

 

Hi John,

 

I hardly ever close the door on anything, so who knows what the future holds? If I get an urge that's irresistible, this will be the thread I turn to.

 

Regards,

 

Stefan

Link to post
Share on other sites

Last night was slightly frustrating as I did have a few problems with the left hand common crossing

 

post-1131-0-14974000-1406649880_thumb.jpg

 

Still in the end I just replaced the 2 Vee rails and bingo all was fine. 4 wheel wagons are fine going through as is the long wheelbase van, especially as all I have is one temporary check rail. I have started on the second diamond and the bottom small turnout is nearly finished.

 

post-1131-0-87078100-1406649859_thumb.jpg

 

I think I will start soldering up fully from left to right once I have the second diamond tacked in place, so I can test electrically as I go along

 

The black currant bush is calling before the birds eat them all

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

I appreciate that this is not a P4 turnout (and I am not certain whether the same gauge is available for different track gauges) but have you discovered the "mint gauge"?

 

I find that it is by far the best gauge for checking whether things are constructed properly.  It is just a block of brass with two ridges that sit in the flangeway gaps.  Sliding it up and down picks up either out of line rails, tight sections or checkrails/wing rails that are out of kilter.

 

Well worth it, but it does not work so well for Exactoscale/C&L plastic kit turnouts.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Mark

 

I do have a P4 gauge which looks like a bobbin reel from my mothers sewing days, may well be what you call a mint gauge.

 

There are several gauges in both EM & P4 that would be useful across all the main gauges (P4, EM, 00SF & 00). Its a great pity no one does a full set across the range of gauges and scales. Not everyone are members of societies who build track

Link to post
Share on other sites

Mark

 

I do have a P4 gauge which looks like a bobbin reel from my mothers sewing days, may well be what you call a mint gauge.

 

There are several gauges in both EM & P4 that would be useful across all the main gauges (P4, EM, 00SF & 00). Its a great pity no one does a full set across the range of gauges and scales. Not everyone are members of societies who build track

 

Its not that one, it is a rectangular block in brass.  I will try and take a picture of it but am on hols at present so it won't be for a week or so.  I'll explain how it is used, as it really is of great assistance.

 

C&L do gauges across all scales (although I am hazy as to whether they do 00SF).  I know that you are a day member when you attend an EMGS show and likewise for a Scalefour one (and I guess probably the same for the other scale society shows) - thus it is possible for people to acquire via these even if they are not members.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Mark

 

C&L do 00sf gauges 3 point, roller and check rail gauge. No wing rail gauges

 

OK if you go to the EMGS or scale forums you can buy parts that are available at shows, but thats if you go to the shows or need them at the time of the shows

 

What the lone modeller needs is a supplier of gauges, in the code of rail they use, designed for plastic chair compatibility if needed, and things like wing rail gauges for the main gauges. Some gauges on sale do have inbuilt problems, which can restrict them to copperclad/rivet construction, or have a check rail gap that is not standard.

 

Roller gauges would be easier to use without check rail gauge added, there are various other bits that would be nice to have.

 

I have a P4 gauge that I think might be what you have mentioned

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

I find a triangular gauge that has small pins with a slot for the rail at the three points  very useful this makes it easier to fit in complex spots. This is in addition to the roller gauges. One with a flat on the outside to allow for the crossing V and another flat (when turned 180deg) on the check rail side to fit close to the knuckle or where the checkrails are flared is useful too.

Don

Link to post
Share on other sites

Don

 

I agree with the roller gauges and on steel ones I file the flats myself (on one gauge only). I find the more modern 3 point gauges have slightly smaller feet.

 

The Peco flat plate gauge is also very useful for these tight spots, I file off one of the check rail flanges on these

 

I also have a Wheelwrights P4 block gauge with a crossing alignment aid, I believe they are also made in EM gauge as well now 

 

I still say an 00 gauge wing rail gauge is needed, very cheap to make. (SMP used to give them away with their kits in the 70's)

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have now soldered up all the rails, now the fun starts.

 

post-1131-0-78467400-1407009281_thumb.jpg

 

A snap shot of the central part of the formation.

 

The first job is to cut the isolation gaps in the sleepers, next is to work out where the rail breaks are needed. Finally check for shorts and then test with a loco and ease any tight spots. Sounds easy, but sometimes its a bit of head scratching checking for the odd short and the curved crossings can be a bit tricky

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Photo of the whole complex now the daylight is in the room

 

post-1131-0-44633800-1407047507_thumb.jpg

 

Now as I said I need to remove the parts from the building board so I can cut the isolation breaks, too early to get the slitting disc out as the other half is still asleep

 

post-1131-0-01926600-1407047539_thumb.jpg

 

I like to have an alternative build on the go, simply it gives a break when doing repetitive items, or hit a problem, as I find it clears/refreshes the mind having something different on the go. This is a bit of an SOS job as it is going on to a replacement board and is one half of a trailing crossing, the other half is on a different board. Even though I am not using the Exactoscale chairs I now follow the practice of replicating the 1PL & 2PL slide chairs, where the stock rails are held in a chair but the switch rail can move

 

post-1131-0-25777700-1407047522_thumb.jpg

 

Up very early and this is the next project on the go, was able to cut and place the sleepers on the plan quietly downstairs as I woke up very early. The common crossing can now be fitted and have time to set. And yes when I finish the complex I have another copperclad to build whilst finishing off the chaired turnout. You can see I have nearly marked out the special chairs, still have the L1 chairs which are the smaller bridge chairs, just need to double check the positions

Edited by hayfield
  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello John.

             

 

Now as I said I need to remove the parts from the building board so I can cut the isolation breaks, too early to get the slitting disc out as the other half is still asleep

 

Any chance of showing how you go about doing this please?

trustytrev.

Edited by trustytrev
Link to post
Share on other sites

Gardening over and just before I start on isolating the sleepers on the copperclad turnouts just a couple of quick bits on the other two turnouts

 

post-1131-0-26769100-1407083957_thumb.jpg

 

A couple of chairs need glueing in place, then tiebar to be fitted and bonding wires from switch rails to the stock rails, then the final 4 slide chairs. Then its final testing time.

 

post-1131-0-04873300-1407083977_thumb.jpg

 

The common crossing is fitted in place with the Exactoscale common crossing, bridge and standard chairs all in place. Stock rails have chairs slid on them ready for fitting

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

post-1131-0-92638700-1407084609_thumb.jpg

 

This is a bit clearer but not very flattering, as much bigger than the model and you cannot see the slight twist in the central block chair. Will wait 24 hours for the chair to set hard and will re-set it

Edited by hayfield
  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Pete

 

Not at the moment, but thanks to a kind gesture I have a set of gauges for code 75 flatbottom rail (I never knew it was different from bullhead). I think I have said I have all the parts for a small cameo, in that I have some Peco Indvidulay Concrete sleepers and fixing clips, Peco Pandrol clips, code 75 flatbottom rail and C&L ST base plates.

 

My thoughts were that I build a (through) station entrance. Right hand turnout going into a single slip. Single platform on the down with an island platform for the up and bay. The slip would be from the bay to the up, down access to bay only.

 

I just need the time to build it. all the parts are in a box under my desk just to keep reminding me they need using 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I reckon that it will take as long if not longer to adapt something rather than build one. I had to re-do someone else's work on a common crossing, it took me 4 or 5 times longer than building one. And on your side of the pond I see there are a couple of companies supplying decent kits/parts for the USA market

Link to post
Share on other sites

The complex has past the initial electrical test, next is to get some locos running through and ease any tight spots.

 

The C&L A5 is finished and The Exactoscale is well on the way, Hopefully the sun will be out in the morning so I can snap a couple of close ups of the check rail chairs

 

I wonder how Michael is getting on with building his outside slip, whilst a have built a couple in copperclad. I do fancy having a go at building one fully chaired with Exactoscale special chairs, They look stunning in copperclad, fully detailed chaired should look terrific

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...