Hayfields turnout workbench

[hayfield]

I take a slightly different approach, probably because of a few mistakes when starting out. I like to set the Vees in place first, even on complexes. Getting the crossings in place and in line with each other for me is the way I prefer to work, but this may not suite everyone, hence my interest in the methods and processes of others. I am always looking for better ways of doing things

[3 link]

Hi Godders,

 

Sorry I did not really explain that too well, basically I start at either side of the template it does not really matter.

 

If you look at the latest top picture you will see I am working from right to left as I have still got the tandem to build.

 

HTH,

 

Martyn.

[3 link]

I take a slightly different approach, probably because of a few mistakes when starting out. I like to set the Vees in place first, even on complexes. Getting the crossings in place and in line with each other for me is the way I prefer to work, but this may not suite everyone, hence my interest in the methods and processes of others. I am always looking for better ways of doing things

 

I use to start with the straight stock rail, but now I just start with the rail that's closest to me. In 7mm I do find there is more tolerence through the crossings but I still like to get it spot on if possible.

 

What has helped a lot are the jigs for filing the vee's and point blades which you can get from the S7 stores, also being a GWR modeller I have a jig that puts the joggles in the rail.  Jigs and joggles normal folk must think we are all mad .

 

Martyn.

[hayfield]

From the superb work or Martyn to a bit of copperclad with girders for rails, Some may have seen that I plan to build a retro layout based on the Minories plan by C J Freezer for my vintage stock. Well I have built an A5 turnout and Martin Wynn suggested I should try replacing the A switch for a 9' one.

 

 

As before I have started by not only cutting the sleepers but also making the isolation cuts and filling them, very little planning is required and it is not only so much easier to do this before soldering the rails but is so much quicker

 

 

Part done and a close up to show the difference. I have used Green Squadron filler made slightly more liquid by mixing in some Humbrol Liquid Poly, just to make it a bit runnier. Left for a day to set rock hard

 

Please don't ask me the difference between an A and a 9' switch, but I will have a comparison.

 

I did say I would build a hinged switch, there was no need as the switch rails flex well with the first 2 sleepers (after the railbreak with the common crossing)being soldered to the switch rails

[hayfield]

I use to start with the straight stock rail, but now I just start with the rail that's closest to me. In 7mm I do find there is more tolerence through the crossings but I still like to get it spot on if possible.

 

What has helped a lot are the jigs for filing the vee's and point blades which you can get from the S7 stores, also being a GWR modeller I have a jig that puts the joggles in the rail.  Jigs and joggles normal folk must think we are all mad .

 

Martyn.

 

 

Starting with the straight rail (as per SMP instructions) was my initial down fall, my first turnouts were lop sided. That's why on turnouts I start with the vees on copperclad and common crossings on chaired track. The good thing about RMweb is that you ask a question and quite often get several replies with differing advice and tips

 

I do like a jig but for whatever reason never bought any filing jigs, as for joggles I just tape some brass shim either side of the rail and put it into a bench vice. I do have a bench grinder for code 125 rail and have made my own guide, code 75 is so much easier to file

[3 link]

Well the track panel is now finished apart from the tie bars and fitting some droppers, I will be using JLTRT tie bars which are a bit fiddly but work well.

 

 

 

That just leaves me to wish you all a Merry Christmas and New year.

 

Martyn.

 

[hayfield]

I have picked up the files etc and started a couple more turnouts in 00 gauge, nothing out of the ordinary other than one is a curved C9

 

 

The common crossing chairs do not come in a 1-9 angle so initially followed the 1-10 chart where all the outer parts of the chairs fitted, but had to come up with a bit of adaptation to existing parts, worst was the last of the common crossing chairs

 

 

This was over come by using some spare chair halves from one of the other frets and splicing them together. Still better looking than altering standard chairs.

 

I have also altered the build at the end of the common crossing, rather than have a joint between the closure/wing rails over the 3rd sleeper, I have made it between the second and third sleepers, this allows a centre block chair over the third sleeper

[hayfield]

The straight B7 is now finished

 

 

looks like C&L are using a better quality of ply as it does not absorb the stain quite as much as the older stuff

 

 

View from the toe

 

 

And one from the heal.

 

I also had a bit of luck at Christmas in finding 2 Peco track gauges (ref IL-115 (at a very old price)). I can now tape 2 together to form an A shape which is self supporting. Must look out for a couple more as they are very usefull and cover 00,EM & P4 gauges

[Grovenor]

John,

Looks like you have your heel and toe pics swopped.

The toe end is where the switches are, the heel end where the crossing is.

(Although usually the terms heel and toe are used to refer to the switches only rather than the entire turnout, the switch toes are the pointed ends, the switch heels are where they are pivotted, or for sprung switches at the first fixed chair).

Regards

Keith

PS Turnout looks good, from either end!

[hayfield]

Keith

 

Thanks for that, I always get it wrong thinking that the toe end is where you have more than one track and heal is where it starts (narrow end like a foot).

 

Still at lease its not someone who objects to a turnout being called a turnout and not a point. (just started world war 3). Thanks and have a good day

[martin_wynne]

I always get it wrong thinking that the toe end is where you have more than one track and heal is where it starts (narrow end like a foot).

 

Hi John,

 

Think of the side view of a foot, not a plan view. .

 

The toe is the thin/narrow end. The heel is the thick/wide end:

 

From: http://www.doctorsecrets.com/

 

Martin.

[3 link]

That's one way of getting the (point) across  .

 

Martyn.

[hayfield]

Hi John,

 

Think of the side view of a foot, not a plan view. .

 

The toe is the thin/narrow end. The heel is the thick/wide end:

 

From: http://www.doctorsecrets.com/

 

Martin.

 

 

But Martin, if you look at your foot from above, then the toes are the wide part of the foot (and more than one) and the heal is the narrow end !!

 

Still after that lovely explanation I may be able to remember it for a few days at least. Thank you

[martin_wynne]

But Martin, if you look at your foot from above, then the toes are the wide part of the foot (and more than one) and the heal is the narrow end !!

 

Hi John,

 

I agree, it's not a very clear analogy. Perhaps we should look at other meanings of the words. For example the dictionary gives one meaning of "toe" as: "The lower end, tip, or point of something".

 

Martin.

[Anglian]

Tip-toe.

[hayfield]

Sorting out my work room a bit, and putting away the parts I bought at St Albans. Topper up on items from C&L with the addition of a Wills point rodding kit.

 

I have been asked back to the South West Herts show in May (Sat 9th in Bushey) again to demonstrate turnout construction so thoughts of what to take with me.

 

From last years experience the biggest amount of questions were on turnout operation, so I am planning a board with one turnout and a few switch sections just to show the options available.

 

Secondly have a short piece of operational track including a turnout with a hidden tiebar operated from below and with ballasted track above, hence the Wills point rodding. I have an idea of hiding the tiebar under the track which is quite simple at worst I have an old Exactoscale crank system, but I want a home made version which anyone can build.More later

 

 

An 00 gauge C8 curved turnout which I ran out of 3 bolt Exactoscale chairs

 

 

As you can see work restarted again, you will see my use of both roller gauges and some flat Peco flat gauges, I have had one for years, they are a 3 in one gauge (00, EM & P4). I have snipped of the wing and check rail spigots and it is easy to use in places where both roller and 3 point gauges fail to get into. I bought a couple more a few weeks ago and as you can see by taping the top of 2 together it makes into an A frame. Now some enterprising person will do some art work and make some available to others, as these are very useful. 

 

 

 

 

[sp1]

What a clever idea!

Wonder how difficult these would be to make from bits of old brass/ plastic etc? (I fancy trying some N Gauge track and appropriate gauges seem impossible to find).

[hayfield]

What a clever idea!

Wonder how difficult these would be to make from bits of old brass/ plastic etc? (I fancy trying some N Gauge track and appropriate gauges seem impossible to find).

 

 

SP1

 

Cutting the slots in a piece of brass is dead easy, but its then hollowing out the middle and sides. It would be so easy to etch though once you have learnt to allow for the etching process. Would also be able to make check rail gauges for 00, EM & P4.

 

I very rarely see any track builders using these gauges, as I said nip out the check and wing rail spigots and they get into places others cant

[sp1]

In the layout section 'RBE' has made some N scale gauges from brass (sorry, name of layout escapes me at the moment!) by cutting/ filing. I like the way you have joined two of those Peco gauges in an inverted V - scope to replicate in brass I think for various gauges. I appreciate what you say about etching - ideal for this, and that thought had crossed my mind. Alas outside my current skill set .

Steve

 

Edit to add: I suppose it would be easy in plasticard - at least they would be cheap and not a disaster if you melt one with the soldering iron!

Edited January 12, 2015 by sp1

[hayfield]

Plastic would be easy to cut and shape and fine for plastic chaired track. A piece of scrap brass/nickelsilver etc is free if from a fret in an etched kit, or at exhibitions kit makers will sell strips very cheaply. Though I guess if you look around I bet a suitable piece could be found from items being thrown out, tin cans?

 

The first job would be to cut 2 groves 16.5 (or what ever gauge you are working on) apart with a slitting disk and about 1.5 mm deep, then open out the slit to the width of the rail head by filing the outer part of each grove keeping the gauge intact. Now make pegs 1 mm wide either side of each gap and file off the excess, so that it clears any other rails either inside or outside the stock rails. Rush it and you run the risk of ruining the gauge, its easy to take a bit more off if required. It may seem too simple to be any good, but well within the ability of the average modeller.

[hayfield]

 

Another copperclad on the board, sleepers cut. However I needed a new blade and bought a packet of B&Q ones which went blunt after only cutting a few sleepers, needless to say they went back for a refund. I have bought a branded packet from somewhere else.

 

The sleepers were cut and stuck on the plan, I marked out the isolation cuts and instead of using a razor saw I used a slitting disc, which not only was quicker but the larger gap is electrically better.

 

 

Just leaving the bench is a curved C9 turnout

 

 

And a B7, both to 00 gauge. Both standard construction of 1.6 mm ply timbers, Exactoscale 3 bolt chairs plus the bridge, common crossing, check rail and switch chairs 

[hayfield]

Just a head up on setting the switch blades

 

 

As you can see on Templot templates there are 4 pieces of information (in red) relating to the setting of the switch and stock rails

 

Top left is a line where the switch blades start

Top right is where the set point (bend in the rail) is

Bottom left is the end of planing of the switch rails

Bottom right stock gauge where the stock rail has moved one rail width (see below)

 

 

This is a very simple way of setting the curved stock rail where the plaining ends on the switch rail. The gauge has to be altered by filing a flat on the outside rim (see below)

 

 

As you can see the altered roller gauge, also works with setting the stock rail with the Vee

 

Hopefully Martin will add a better description. 

[Donw]

I always try to get one gauge with a flat on for doing near the crossing. I also find a three point gauge useful. Regarding the flat multi gauge one. I have something similar for 0 gauge but it is one gauge not three. I would be worried about using the 18.2 instead of 18.83 or vice versa easy it pick it up wrongly.

Don

[hayfield]

The latest turnout on the bench is a P4 A5, thought I would have some fun by making use of a few of my P4 gauges (you don't need as many as I am using)

 

 

Quite standard in that the timbers have been cut, stuck down and isolation gaps cut. Then I made a Vee in a simple jig I have built then fitted it to the timbers

 

 

The straight stock rail has been fitted first using gauges and a straight edge. The curved stock rail is then fitted, heal end first (I am using some old Brooke Smith gauges but standard roller or 3 point would do)

 

 

The curved part is soldered in place by eye, except at the toe end where I used roller gauges and as you can see like the EM turnout I have used a gauge where the plaining ends,

 

 

This is one of my favourite gauges, a DJ Wheelwrights Block gauge with a crossing alignment aid. A standard wing rail gauge is just as good and cheaper. As I said earlier I think these are also available in EM gauge as Well

 

 

This shows the 2 parts more clearly

 

 

Adding the second crossing/wing rail

 

 

I use these type of Exactoscale gauges for chaired track to keep the cant of the chairs, the one in the photo is +0.1 mm gauge widened

 

 

Just for a change a set of 3 point gauges for the straight switch rail

 

Now you don't need as many different gauges normally, its just I am a sucker for new equipment and its just a bit of fun using a few different types

[hayfield]

 

Using the 3 point gauges to fit the curved switch rail

 

 

Check rail gauges. 00sf check rail gauges can be used to set standard 00 gauge check rails as well as 00sf check rails

 

 

Finished P4 turnoout

 

 

A quick repair to a Peco turnout removed from the fiddleyard of one of the clubs layouts used smaller width timbers to match the Peco plastic ones