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Static Grass Tips and Techniques


MichaelW
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I have not tried a Greenkeeper one yet but I have seen it demonstrated at shows in Europe seems to work really well indeed.

 

I have the Noch Profi 3 which works really well though it does take 8 batteries!

 

The Woodlands Static King on mains power works well too.

 

Peter

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Sorry if I've missed the answer elsewhere on this thread. How do you prevent your grass from getting squashed when you lean over your layout? I'm using the Greenscenes applicator, with a dilute PVA base and WWS layering spray. The end result looks okay, but it's pretty fragile.

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Neil, it is fragile but easily 'refreshed' Additional fibres layered will give a good effect. Lightly topped off with some very fine ground foam adds to the effect.

 

This is all layered grasses IIRC, started with 2mm base and then 4mm, 2mm next and topped off with fine ground foam.

20190630_140020ab.jpg.01bf0e3d1005c90066b931b342c187e3.jpg

 

I do occasionally use longer grasses which I could never get to work using my original 12kv Noch machine but do get better results with the Greenkeeper 35kv machine. Using specific 'basing glue' rather than ordinary PVA do seem to get better results for the longer fibres...don't know quite why...!

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1 hour ago, Re6/6 said:

... Using specific 'basing glue' rather than ordinary PVA do seem to get better results for the longer fibres...don't know quite why...!

 

I think it has more salt in it, hence the ability to 'distribute' the static charge better than normal PVA - John Lloyd (ex of Green Scene fame) said it is always better to water the PVA down with water direct from the tap as that helps it to conduct the charge - similar principle?

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On 23/11/2021 at 10:28, WIMorrison said:

 

I think it has more salt in it, hence the ability to 'distribute' the static charge better than normal PVA - John Lloyd (ex of Green Scene fame) said it is always better to water the PVA down with water direct from the tap as that helps it to conduct the charge - similar principle?

Yes, it is. Pure H2O doesn't really conduct electricity at all. It is dissolved salts (of which table salt is only one) that make water (and hence water-based glues) conduct. Tap water has varying amounts of dissolved salts in it - harder water has more (this being why it's harder). Being conductive means more charge available, particularly when the croc-clip is connected to the glue, which completes a circuit.

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Chris, I use either the Peco or the WWS layering spray. They give better results than the usual hairspray. Obviously more expensive but worth it! 

 

Martin's advice above is correct regarding not using PVA. For base glue I now use WWS stuff. I gave up using PVA after years of poor results (fibres falling over!) I shall have to try kid's glue as it would probably be much cheaper! 

 

 

 

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5 minutes ago, Gedward said:

A small diorama of Bodmin moor I've been working on.

 

 

Looks excellent and I like the forced perspective of the higher ground towards the back. Do you have any tips or techniques you could share?

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6 minutes ago, Neil P said:

 

Looks excellent and I like the forced perspective of the higher ground towards the back. Do you have any tips or techniques you could share?

 

Thanks Neil. I've pretty much explained everything in pictures on my thread The Bovey Saga. Take a look there and happy to answer any questions you may have.

 

 

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On 06/10/2022 at 20:53, Neil P said:

 

Looks excellent and I like the forced perspective of the higher ground towards the back. Do you have any tips or techniques you could share?

 

My first bit of advice would be to get hold of the best reference as possible. But remember, just because it's a prototype, doesn't mean you can't make changes. In fact, because of the immense compression of scope, it's absolutely vital.

 

Secondly, it's well worth paying attention to how colours fade into the distance. Doesn't make any difference whether it's painted or static grass, the same rules apply. Scatter and static grass now come in a huge range of variations of greens. It's important to keep the pale, less vibrant colours to the back of the layout. In order to achieve realism.

 

 

Edited by Gedward
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10 minutes ago, Gedward said:

 

Thanks Neil. I've pretty much explained everything in pictures on my thread The Bovey Saga. Take a look there and happy to answer any questions you may have.

 

 

Great. Thanks. I'll have a look!

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On 23/11/2021 at 09:12, Re6/6 said:

Neil, it is fragile but easily 'refreshed' Additional fibres layered will give a good effect. Lightly topped off with some very fine ground foam adds to the effect.

 

This is all layered grasses, started with 2mm base and then 4mm, 2mm next and topped off with fine ground foam. The rear clump is a small piece of sea foam with fine ground foam added.

20190630_140020ab.jpg.01bf0e3d1005c90066b931b342c187e3.jpg

 

I do occasionally use longer grasses which I could never get to work using my original 12kv Noch machine but do get better results with the Greenkeeper 35kv machine. Using specific 'basing glue' rather than ordinary PVA do seem to get better results for the longer fibres...don't know quite why...!

Picture replaced.

20190630_153643a.jpg.31a7239cbfa44dae632c173e776a8b92.jpg

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