modelmaker87 Posted November 5, 2010 Author Share Posted November 5, 2010 Hi Guys, Having sorted by this time a prototype image, (I was late doing this and had already started on this bash) I noted that the coupler boxes were of the cushion type. So thanks to Details West the originals saw the sharp edge of the blade and became history. I made the cut without damage. Who's a lucky boy then..? And they don't look half bad. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted November 9, 2010 Author Share Posted November 9, 2010 Hi Guys, This image shows the added post on the inside of the corner post plus the second set of hand grabs I made for the car, all four corners. The rectangular plates I fixed with wax rather than regular adhesive. This permits me to move them about if I didn't position them accurately. I broke one of the stirrups earlier on during the build. They suck anyway so I snapped the remaining three off with finger and thumb and nade new ones. This style are unavailable form the usual after parts sources. To attach these to the sill correctly I drill two holes. One into the underside of the sill. And the other into the end of the sill into which I fasten this leg with a rivet per the prototype. This about does it for the added bits and mods to this Athearn blue box. Now its ready for paint. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted November 9, 2010 Share Posted November 9, 2010 Tony it looks great have you got a before picture you could post for comparison? Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted November 9, 2010 Author Share Posted November 9, 2010 Tony it looks great have you got a before picture you could post for comparison? Pete Thanks Pete, Page 2, approx quarter way down. Image shows an all brown car with an NS logo. As it happens I never did shoot this Southern car prior to it getting the blade but the NS one is identical to the Southern one in all respects other than the decals. Athearn churned out hundreds and thousands of identical copies of this model and painted them to suit just about every single livery under the sun, I think. Not far off anyhow. I do have the proto image which I used for my baseline for this blue box bash but the model is representative only. The ends are incorrect and I didn't want to take the project further. This project is a tutorial I'm doing for beginners on another forum and I posted it here as I thought it might be of use to beginner modellers starting out in US modelling and Athearn blue box kits are so cheap, (and nasty), and are superb kits to beat up on to both learn and for me to practice my skills to hopefully improve them. These blue box bashes I do for practice only, its not serious modelling at all. I might bung it on e-bay just for fun, see what it gets. I'll bring it to Wigan for any of the followers of this build to take a good look at it. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted November 13, 2010 Author Share Posted November 13, 2010 Hi Guys, Paint shop for the bash. Images that follow cover my painting sequence. Then the roof. Then some weathering prep. I use this product from a Masquepen. The text on he image I did for the guys over here but Googling the product I found at least one supplier in the UK. In fact the product does come from a UK manufacturer. http://www.artsupplies.co.uk/item-masquepen.htm And apply it randomly over the roof. Then I spray the whole model with Floquil Southern Rail Car Brown. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted November 18, 2010 Author Share Posted November 18, 2010 Hi Guys, A closer view of the roof. You can see clearly the deposits of the Masquepen liquid. Using a regular classroom eraser I scrubbed the roof thoroughly and the effect is thus. The whole roof and nothing but the roof. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted November 18, 2010 Share Posted November 18, 2010 Tony If you were to go over the roof with the eraser again would you have the black coming through? Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted November 18, 2010 Author Share Posted November 18, 2010 Tony If you were to go over the roof with the eraser again would you have the black coming through? Pete Pete, I go over the roof with the eraser one time and what you see is it. I guess if you did go over it twice... Mmmmmmm...?? Well, I'd never say never. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted November 18, 2010 Author Share Posted November 18, 2010 Pete, FWIW, this is one out of the handful of similar prototype images I used as a guide to the weathering patterns. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted November 18, 2010 Share Posted November 18, 2010 It is a great effect Tony. Did you forget the bolts/holes along the top door runner on your model as in the picture? Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted November 19, 2010 Author Share Posted November 19, 2010 It is a great effect Tony. Did you forget the bolts/holes along the top door runner on your model as in the picture? Pete Pete, the proto image I used as a guide. The car I'm messing with is not the same but the roof weathering I liked so that's what that image was all about - roof weather patterns, nothing else. Later, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted November 26, 2010 Author Share Posted November 26, 2010 Hi Guys, Decals next. Weathering - Phase 1. Light wash. Weathering - Phase 2. Light highlight washes. Weathering - Phase 3. Heavy washes and detail picking. Outrageous Close up. The prototype image I used as a guide to my fantasy model. The different colour cast between the proto image and the model image. Due to indoor lighting versus outdoor lighting. I could have cheated and photoshopped it, but didn't. On to another model for the layout. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted November 29, 2010 Author Share Posted November 29, 2010 Hi Guys, Well this past weekend I was the man in charge at this weekends Hobby Holidays residential course. Phil Atkinson asked me to do another of my courses and this one was titled "Weathering without an airbrush". I wasn't expecting so many O gauge guys come along for the merriment and several models for me to instruct on where to paint the colours and what to do with the coloured paint once deposited. Always difficult to describe but pix say quite a lot. Ron Patterson gave me this S&C O gauge 8 plank to work on. I asked him if I could fudge it up. He looked at me a bit square on and wasn't quite sure how to reply, but I started with hacksaw blade in hand and ended up doing the first side for him. He then continued and finished the rest of the wagon, and a great job he did with it too. Here's how the thing looked at the start. Then I did this in about 60 to 70 minutes. It was particularly satisfying to watch Ron copy what I did, and he certainly listened. Here's what he did to the other side. Is that good or what...? Well done Ron. And just for grins, here's a really nasty close up to show how nicely Ron did his new learned weathering skills. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pugsley Posted November 29, 2010 Share Posted November 29, 2010 Superb stuff! Had Ron done much before in the way of weathering? That's very convincing in the close-up pic, either he's a fast learner, or the tutor was very good, or a combination of the two What materials did you use, out of interest? I've still yet to try the water mixable oils that I got earlier in the year. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted November 29, 2010 Author Share Posted November 29, 2010 Superb stuff! Had Ron done much before in the way of weathering? That's very convincing in the close-up pic, either he's a fast learner, or the tutor was very good, or a combination of the two What materials did you use, out of interest? I've still yet to try the water mixable oils that I got earlier in the year. Hi Martin, Pleased you like them, it was a real load of fun distressing this model. Ron explained to me that his weathering experience up till this past weekend was only with an airbrush. He was VERY surprised to find out for himself what he could do with other mediums and no airbrush. This was his first heavy weathering job. I also taught him rust streaking which he applied to one of his mineral wagons which he previously weathered with an airbrush under Tim Shackleton's tutelage. Ron is no slouch, a darn good modeller I would say, and was quick on the uptake to boot. But he was focused, boy was he focused. It amazes me the difference between a freebie clinic and one the 'learner' is paying for. It makes the payee so much more attentive. Materials I used for this process were: Hacksaw - Scalpel blade - Gouache, black and vandyke brown only. Some small deposits of MIG old rust Part #P230 and a very stiff brush to filter it all together. That's it. Cheer, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted November 29, 2010 Author Share Posted November 29, 2010 Hacksaw - Scalpel blade - Gouache, black and vandyke brown only. Some small deposits of MIG old rust Part #P230 and a very stiff brush to filter it all together. That's it. Forget to mention the white charcoal pencil to write the word PLYM and other words on the side which I did for him. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beagle1 Posted December 2, 2010 Share Posted December 2, 2010 Cracking modelling Tony, Where do you get your .010 x .030'' Brass strip from? Your modelling skills have inspired me to botch some of my freight car fleet but have been unable to find that size through searching on t'net Fred Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted December 3, 2010 Author Share Posted December 3, 2010 Cracking modelling Tony, Where do you get your .010 x .030'' Brass strip from? Your modelling skills have inspired me to botch some of my freight car fleet but have been unable to find that size through searching on t'net Fred Cheers Fred, It was sure a lot of fun doing it. Details Associates offer the brass strip that I use. You will find it here - Page 13 close to the bottom. http://www.discounttrainsonline.com/HO-Scale-Detailing-Parts-and-Decals-Detail-Associates/HO_DET_229_13.html Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beagle1 Posted December 3, 2010 Share Posted December 3, 2010 Cheers Tony. Lots of good stuff , credit card still smouldering Look forward to more of your inspiring creations. Fred Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted January 28, 2011 Author Share Posted January 28, 2011 Cheers Tony. Lots of good stuff , credit card still smouldering Look forward to more of your inspiring creations. Fred Fred, Hope you are inspired by this MoW gon for my layout. Bog standard Athearn with a few changes. Steel wheels, Kadee 58's, airlines, rotating cut levers, separate hand grabs, replacement brake gear and brake wheel, which can't be seen all that well. I also added a strip along the top. Every layout should have a MoW train. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pugsley Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 That's lovely B) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Gwinnett Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 Yes that is nice Tony. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted January 30, 2011 Author Share Posted January 30, 2011 Thanks Martin. Thanks Jon, I thought you might like this one, older than my usual fare and probably closer to your favourite era. I'll probably do another 3 open gons for my MoW train plus a couple of box cars - high brake wheel jobbies. The things is with open gons, is that you have to do twice the work, weather the outside and the inside. :D Cheers, Tony. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmaker87 Posted February 4, 2011 Author Share Posted February 4, 2011 This past week I have made some small progress to details at one end of the interior of this gon. Cheers, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Gwinnett Posted February 4, 2011 Share Posted February 4, 2011 Real wood or distressed plastic? I'm guessing wood? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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