Chris Higgs Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 (edited) Ah sir, one of our other departments can help there, a new line in quite easy to make points to match the wheels.... The gauge is different? Oh that's easily solved! They have some rather nice matching plain track that goes quite well...... Izzy Shop 1 will also sell you a grinding mill so you can regauge what you have already laid. Don't laugh. I did try this once - milling out Peco track so it was 9.42mm gauge. I thought it might be a quick and cheap way to produce robust track to build a fiddle yard, as Peco Code 55 is pretty much immune to damage given how the rails are embedded in the sleepers. Even now with Easitrac that would be much more fragile. The regauging worked, unfortunately it proved impossible to clean up the rough surface the milling machine left on the inside of the rails. I did find that Fleischmann track actually is 9.2mm gauge, and so 2FS models would just about run on it unmodified. Of course if you go into a trouser shop for a jumper, it's only to be expected that occasionally you'll be disappointed. If only I had the kind of cash to enter shops that only sell trousers. Matalan for me... Edited October 21, 2016 by Chris Higgs Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John lewsey Posted October 24, 2016 Share Posted October 24, 2016 hi just a bit more progress on the Lizzie John 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethashenden Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 I have finally finished the Jinty conversion I started about three years ago. Well, it still needs weathering, so maybe it's not actually done. I have also been finishing up a few part completed projects. A BR brake van, BR plywood van, Presflo, and several mineral. Once again, I have run out of wheels (a perpetual problem) and I still have four 16T minerals to build. 14 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium nick_bastable Posted October 25, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 25, 2016 very nice which version of the Jinty chassis did you use ? Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethashenden Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 very nice which version of the Jinty chassis did you use ? Nick It's 3-650 from Shop 3 under the old Farish body. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John lewsey Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 Very nice Gareth Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium CF MRC Posted October 25, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 25, 2016 'Bout time Gareth! But who am I to talk? Tim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Copleston Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 (edited) Three baseboards coming along in the workshop for my new 2mm standard gauge circular layout. Actually, these are just the 9mm ply baseplates and blank end-plates accurately set at 120 degrees (third of a circle each) for my own design of 'monocoque' baseboards. Construction principles are similar to my Nn3 circular layout baseboard which some of you may have already seen at Larkrail in July (and which will be on the 2mmNG stand at Expo-NG this coming weekend http://expong.org ). The 6mm ply intermediate cross-profiles and upper trackbed are still to fit, as eventually will be the 4mm ply inner and outer side-profiles, and which together form an integral part of the overall monocoque structure. No ordinary wood is used with this construction method, which makes for light but very rigid baseboards. Further updates to follow as construction proceeds... Edited October 26, 2016 by Phil Copleston 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DavidLong Posted October 25, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 25, 2016 I have finally finished the Jinty conversion I started about three years ago. Well, it still needs weathering, so maybe it's not actually done. I have also been finishing up a few part completed projects. A BR brake van, BR plywood van, Presflo, and several mineral. Once again, I have run out of wheels (a perpetual problem) and I still have four 16T minerals to build. Some really nice modelling there, Gareth and especially well done with the ex-PO mineral wagons. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium CF MRC Posted October 25, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 25, 2016 (edited) 20161011_165355 (1500).jpg ... And there I was thinking you were making a model of Iron Bridge gorge! Tim Edited October 25, 2016 by CF MRC Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John lewsey Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 I took the plunge today and formed the firebox and to my relief it fits the front and back formers Phew John 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John lewsey Posted October 30, 2016 Share Posted October 30, 2016 the princes fir box I have to say I was quite worried bout messing this up but it seems to look OK in the overhead photo you can see that these were very long engines Regards John Oops upside down 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John lewsey Posted October 30, 2016 Share Posted October 30, 2016 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethashenden Posted October 30, 2016 Share Posted October 30, 2016 Some really nice modelling there, Gareth and especially well done with the ex-PO mineral wagons. David Thanks. I wasn't very happy with how the painted ironwork had come out, so they've been siting for a while now. It doesn't look too bad in the picture, so I may finish them up soon. Thanks for the encouragement. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
justin1985 Posted October 30, 2016 Share Posted October 30, 2016 Seeing as I've got lots of projects to finish, and lots of work I should be doing ... I decided to indulge in a bit of procrastination by scratch building a wagon body ... Its a Great Eastern loco sand wagon, based on the John Watling drawing of a wagon found at Ipswich in the 1950s, and blogged about on the Basilica Fields blog. It'll go on a standard Association 9'6" wheelbase chassis, suitably shortened in overall length, and I was planning on adding Archers rivet transfers on the strapping and ironwork once it's tided up a bit. This is my first attempt at scratchbuilding a complete plasticard wagon in 2mm. Its not perfect, but I'm still pretty pleased with it. Working with white plasticard on white, it reminded me that, David Eveleigh, I think, had a stock of off-white beige plasticard to make it easier to see - but I've never seen any options than white or black for sale, any suggestions? My original idea was to use this for a resin casting master so I could have two or three of them. I'll see how pleased I am with it when I finish ... Justin 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted October 30, 2016 Share Posted October 30, 2016 (edited) Working with white plasticard on white, it reminded me that, David Eveleigh, I think, had a stock of off-white beige plasticard to make it easier to see - but I've never seen any options than white or black for sale, any suggestions? Justin Slaters do sell a small range of coloured plasticard; https://slatersplastikard.com/plastikard/colouredPlastikard.php I have a couple of sheets of 20 thou thick sky blue, and I think I might have some cream coloured sheets as well. It was the late Steve Sykes who showed me how much easier it was to apply strapping and scrawk the plank lines when the plastic was coloured. Andy Edited October 30, 2016 by 2mm Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hendreladis Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 Bit more faffing with the Judith Edge Hunslet. It looks like no real problems are going to arise but I'd value some input from those with more experience of mounting the smaller motors. This will use a Nigel Lawton 8mm coreless. The chassis is a much hacked 03 from the inestimable Mr Higgs. The wheelbase is not quite correct but I just wanted a quickie as proof of concept. It sits under the body happily enough though the pictures reflect a bit of over zealous filing here and there. The relationship between the motor and the gearbox means that the the motor forming the 'boiler' is actually a tad undersized and pitched too low. That doesn't matter. The pictures also suggest that the saddle is not square to the cab etc. but that is more parallax than botched assembly - the kit really is very good and I defy anyone to get it badly askew though a few bends are a badly done as I was rushing it through. I have a few more etches to get the next ones right! So the motor mount. The front of the motor contains a small bearing. By some fluke the diameter of that bearing is a near as dammit fit in the hole on the chassis kit that would normally have accepted the bronze bearing bush. Consequently it is possible to stick the motor shaft directly into the chassis gearbox and then support the other end of the worm in a conventional bearing and steel stub. Doing so means, of course, hat the motor is locked in solidly and so maintenance or replacement becomes a pain in the butt. This is what I intended to do initially but then it dawned on me that it is actually possible to hack away a large proportion on the gearbox around the worm shaft and drop the motor down into the chassis. That would make pressing the worm onto the motor shaft less troublesome as it could be done 'off site.' Question is . . . what would the pros out there recommend? Is it worth the hassle of chopping up the etch to allow the motor to be more easily removable or does experience suggest that the motor might as well just be totally secured? That is, after all, what we do to the wheels in their muffs etc. Minor points to note. The motor sits on a pcb saddle soldered between the frames; didn't use a full tube as a boiler as that would limit the amount of space available for extra weight in the tanks directly above the drivers; not sure that the resistor recommended for use with the motor will be included as it would limit the space for extra weight; didn't do the maths properly at the outset and in my haste to fit the motor snug to the gearbox overlooked the fact that the motor would foul the main worm gear hence the front of the motor has been ground away for clearance; still needs a clean up and final fittings. Final pic with an ABS Beaver derived 56xx as a measure of scale. The loco is pretty small but it is certainly possible to much smaller still. Maybe. 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 Interesting to see you using the motor as the boiler under the saddle tank as i have been having similar thoughts around a CR 385 class 'Jubilee Pug' 0-6-0ST. I have an etched body kit for this (shot down from John Boyles artwork), but I'll have to design a chassis for it. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John lewsey Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 That really is very nice Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy stroud Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 I agree, very nice indeed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modfather Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 Very cute - especially next to a bruiser like a 5600 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted November 4, 2016 Share Posted November 4, 2016 Two flavours of 'standard' no.1 tapered boilers destined for 28xx. The left hand one is short cone D2 with original (short) smokebox and on the right is a full taper D4 with final long smokebox. The other picture shows the D4 taper having been squared in the mill. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted November 4, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 4, 2016 The results look good but I have no idea how you managed to create them on a the Mill. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Posted November 4, 2016 Share Posted November 4, 2016 The results look good but I have no idea how you managed to create them on a the Mill. Don I could be wrong but it looks like the cones were turned on a lathe, but if you faced it off in a lathe then the cone would be symmetric. By clamping it in the mill in the way shown and milling the end of the cone it means that the bottom line of the cone part is straight with the smokebox and all the taper is on the upper part of the boiler. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted November 5, 2016 Share Posted November 5, 2016 (edited) On the previous page the jig was shown milling a different fustrum. This has since been attached to both the parallel section and the firebox. The latter part was printed and investment cast in brass by shapeways. Soldering big parts like this needs a monster iron or a flame. I used a plumbers type (MAPP) torch. Essential to jig and clamp well because everything has a tendency to move when you heat it. I found this out on the first attempt but it was easy enough to unclamp it, warm it back up, poke the bits apart with a stick, allow to cool, clean off excess solder and start over. This is destined for a bird series bulldog. Edited November 5, 2016 by richbrummitt 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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