RMweb Gold bcnPete Posted November 5, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 5, 2016 Class 24/1 conversion from Farish 24/0 using etched pixels kit...first coat of primer on to flush out errors/highlight filling and sanding... 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PaulCheffus Posted November 5, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 5, 2016 Class 24/1 conversion from Farish 24/0 using etched pixels kit...first coat of primer on to flush out errors/highlight filling and sanding... IMG_3668.JPG IMG_3667.JPG Hi Very nice and something I am planning on doing shortly. Are you going to correct the central part of the roof? Cheers Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold bcnPete Posted November 5, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 5, 2016 Hi Very nice and something I am planning on doing shortly. Are you going to correct the central part of the roof? Thanks Paul Yes I think I need to fill two large holes and use some micro strip along the edges...just trying to source a roof plan drawing! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John lewsey Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 hi I've just blue tacked the roof on but she definitely got the look of a Lizzie I'll be ordering the wheels soon 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted November 7, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 7, 2016 I've just blue tacked the roof on but she definitely got the look of a Lizzie I'll be ordering the wheels soon She's really starting to take shape John, nice work Jerry 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted November 7, 2016 Share Posted November 7, 2016 I am trying to build a small chassis for a 0-6-0ST. Obviously, there are some ready to use components, like the wheels and the gears so I wonder if I may call this a scratch-built chassis.. I don't have access to a milling machine, the middle part of the chassis is made of brass strips, 2 x 2mm + 1 x 1mm. It won't win any "beauty" contest but I am pretty pleased with the result, especially that this is my first attempt in building a chassis using other methods than PCB spacers... 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hendreladis Posted November 10, 2016 Share Posted November 10, 2016 Finally made a decision on mounting the motor in the Hunslet. Filed away part of the gear tower and trimmed the worm so that it just nestled in the available space. A stub of axle steel with a slightly rounded end, coupled to the slight flexibility introduced by removing part of the etch, allows the motor to virtually 'snap' in. Once boiler bands and a representation of the tank balance pipe are added the motor will be glued to the cradle nearest the front wheels. That will result in the motor being supported at one end by the motor body and the bearing soldered into the chassis at the other end. Constraining the worm between the cheeks of the gearbox eliminates end float and, hopefully, unwanted thrust on the commutator mechanism. Time will tell. Much effort was made to minimise the stress and strain of fixing the worm to the shaft but, to be honest, it still took a bit of hammering. For the moment everything works. Still a bit of detailing and cleaning up to do. It isn't great but I'll spend a bit more time on the subsequent, sister engine. The last photo shows the model next to an N Brass Peckett body that is next on the list to be finished. I previously thought that that was pretty small. It is actually massive - so no excuses about motors not fitting. 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted November 11, 2016 Share Posted November 11, 2016 Among other things for various projects on a sheet I recently had etched by PPD were some hand point levers. CR McNee pattern ones for Kirkallanmuir, straight CR ones for Sauchenford and some HR ones for Alisdair Campbell and others. I decided to try assembling some of them tonight. From left to right - HR, CR McNee Pattern and CR straight. They need a wee bit cleaning up and hopefully some of the detail will show better when they are painted. I am forever grateful that the CR boxed in all the mechanism as they did with the cranks on point rodding runs! Jim 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Copleston Posted November 12, 2016 Share Posted November 12, 2016 Among other things for various projects on a sheet I recently had etched by PPD were some hand point levers. CR McNee pattern ones for Kirkallanmuir, straight CR ones for Sauchenford and some HR ones for Alisdair Campbell and others. I decided to try assembling some of them tonight. From left to right - HR, CR McNee Pattern and CR straight. They need a wee bit cleaning up and hopefully some of the detail will show better when they are painted. I am forever grateful that the CR boxed in all the mechanism as they did with the cranks on point rodding runs! Jim, These look rather spiffing! Will you be making these etches available to others? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted November 12, 2016 Share Posted November 12, 2016 Jim, These look rather spiffing! Will you be making these etches available to others? Thanks, Phil. I would be happy to make them available, but that will have to wait until I have more items to etch, which might be some time. I have lots of things to catch up with on what is currently fairly limited modelling time. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John lewsey Posted November 12, 2016 Share Posted November 12, 2016 Hi this is just a blue tack run as I wanted to see how the fit was between the running plate and the chassis but it does feel good to see her up on the frames John 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted November 13, 2016 Share Posted November 13, 2016 Now got the point levers painted. L - R, Highland Railway, CR McNee pattern and four CR straight levers for the group layout. No fingers were burned in the assembly of these levers! Jim 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted November 14, 2016 Share Posted November 14, 2016 Now got the point levers painted. point levers painted.JPG L - R, Highland Railway, CR McNee pattern and four CR straight levers for the group layout. No fingers were burned in the assembly of these levers! Jim And I thought I had the crown for nerdishness with a bufferstop fettish. I wonder what a LB&SC point lever looks like... Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted November 14, 2016 Share Posted November 14, 2016 And I thought I had the crown for nerdishness with a bufferstop fettish. Takes one to know one! I understood that a level of insanity was a requirement for membership of the 2MM SA! If not, it should be - with regular checks to ensure there is no relapse! I wonder what a LB&SC point lever looks like... Jim Summers' book on CR signalling includes an excerpt from a McNee's advert which shows 4 different patterns of 'lever box', the CR pattern, one marked as 'NB Ry pattern', another labelled 'McNee's frame but with open quadrant and throw over handle', which is ver similar to the CR one, and one other, not identified, but with a straight lever.. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted November 14, 2016 Share Posted November 14, 2016 Takes one to know one! I understood that a level of insanity was a requirement for membership of the 2MM SA! If not, it should be - with regular checks to ensure there is no relapse! Jim Summers' book on CR signalling includes an excerpt from a McNee's advert which shows 4 different patterns of 'lever box', the CR pattern, one marked as 'NB Ry pattern', another labelled 'McNee's frame but with open quadrant and throw over handle', which is ver similar to the CR one, and one other, not identified, but with a straight lever.. Jim I have a book on Suthern signalling. Perhaps it will be in there. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Copleston Posted November 14, 2016 Share Posted November 14, 2016 Now got the point levers painted. No fingers were burned in the assembly of these levers! And I thought I had the crown for nerdishness with a bufferstop fettish. Nerdishness? Naaaah. But I want to know Jim whether they can they be made to actually work? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted November 14, 2016 Share Posted November 14, 2016 (edited) Nerdishness? Naaaah. But I want to know Jim whether they can they be made to actually work? Since you ask, i nearly made the HR one workable. In fact it could be by pivoting the crank, drilling a wee hole in the short end of it and connecting that to the tiebar by a thin wire. If the turnout changed rapidly enough you might get enough movement to throw over the lever! What did I say about sanity?? Never underestimate the masochistic tendencies of a 2FS modeller! Having said that, both the HR and McNee ones can be made to have the lever pivoting. For the two CR patterns, the mechanism is, thankfully, boarded over. Seriously Deranged of Biggar Edited November 14, 2016 by Caley Jim 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium nick_bastable Posted November 14, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 14, 2016 Since you ask, i nearly made the HR one workable. In fact it could be by pivoting the crank, drilling a wee hole in the short end of it and connecting that to the tiebar by a thin wire. If the turnout changed rapidly enough you might get enough movement to throw over the lever! What did I say about sanity?? Never underestimate the masochistic tendencies of a 2FS modeller! Having said that, both the HR and McNee ones can be made to have the lever pivoting. For the two CR patterns, the mechanism is, thankfully, boarded over. Seriously Deranged of Biggar blimey Ive only just managed after years of effort to get a 0-6-0 working even if its still a bit lumpy I'm obviously not quite there yet sure if you team up with Laurie Adams your have a working signal box still the first two look seriously like examples used on the Colonels lines Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Copleston Posted November 15, 2016 Share Posted November 15, 2016 still the first two look seriously like examples used on the Colonels lines Nick, My thinking exactly... They're perfect for some light railway modelling applications. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted November 15, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 15, 2016 Hasn't Jim already built a working lever frame for the box operated signals and turnouts these are just for the yard. Superb work Jim Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted November 15, 2016 Share Posted November 15, 2016 Hasn't Jim already built a working lever frame for the box operated signals and turnouts these are just for the yard. Superb work Jim Thanks, Don, and yes, I have a working lever frame, complete with catch handles, for the main turnouts and signals, see http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/95081-kirkallanmuir/&do=findComment&comment=1752300 . I also now have etches for all the signals and also a locking table to go underneath the lever frame. These are high on the 'to do' list. I will make another appeal to Santa this year for a supply of round tuits! Previous ones have not been particularly fruitful! Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted November 16, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 16, 2016 Thanks, Don, and yes, I have a working lever frame, complete with catch handles, for the main turnouts and signals, see http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/95081-kirkallanmuir/&do=findComment&comment=1752300 . I also now have etches for all the signals and also a locking table to go underneath the lever frame. These are high on the 'to do' list. I will make another appeal to Santa this year for a supply of round tuits! Previous ones have not been particularly fruitful! Jim I will be interested to see how you make the locking frame. I want to make a couple for the 7mm layout. At your rate of progress you must be getting through the to do list. I suspect you keep adding to it. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted November 16, 2016 Share Posted November 16, 2016 I will be interested to see how you make the locking frame. I want to make a couple for the 7mm layout. At your rate of progress you must be getting through the to do list. I suspect you keep adding to it. Hi Don, I've just sent you a PM with screenshots of the design of the locking table and the artwork for the etch. As you say, the list keeps getting added to and I frequently get sidetracked onto things for the group layout. If you've read our blog you will see that we have set ourselves all a wee individual 'challenge' to encourage one another. Mine will have elements for Kirkallanmuir, but ones which I wasn't planning to do just yet. Just as well that we are all our own project managers!! Jim Jim 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yorkshire Square Posted November 17, 2016 Share Posted November 17, 2016 Bit more progress on trackwork for Hull Bridge. The bottom three points are complete and have been glued down. The upper crossover need tie-bars and is then ready to place. Just one more point for the yard entrance to manufacture. 13 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hendreladis Posted November 20, 2016 Share Posted November 20, 2016 A few more details on the Judith Edge Hunslet. Brake gear is very much temporary - what a waste of effort that was. It is cobbled together from the parts in the Judith Edge kit. It'll be replaced by that from the 03 once I can find it. The lack of nickel silver bar prevents finishing off the tool and sand boxes. Hopefully I'll track down a source before interest wanes and this project gets consigned to all of the other half finished tat in the gloat box. It dawned on me that there were 0-6-0 Peckets. The N Brass once is good attempt to represent a Swansea Harbour Trust 0-4-0 but if you stick the chassis from the 03 under it . . . There is space to juggle in an outside cylinder if wanted. Before doing that it'll need to be stripped back and painted with more finesse. 15 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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