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Whats on your 2mm Work bench


nick_bastable
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You got me worried there...

As the wheels were made over 20 years ago by Denys Brownlee, I think it's fair to say they are as true as any. I checked them in the lathe before using them - and they are still round. iPhone cameras have quite a fish-eye effect.

 

Tim

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I have made the LHS front valance for LP today. It was rasped and beaten from some 1.5 mm thick brass: this gave me plenty of material for the cylinder bulge. One of the important things to ensure was that the flare into the bulge was filed nice and true. I used the vice to guide a round file BUT there was a piece of metal shim under the file to act as a slipper.

 

jayxpg.jpg

 

The bit of brass was taken out for checking frequently, and when replaced in the vice an engineer's square was used to ensure it was upright.

 

dw89cx.jpg

 

After this exercise, the flare can be seen, with the front towards the right. The marking out for the rear cut-out is also visible.

 

6omknb.jpg

 

The rest of the metal in front of the flare was filed down with a big hairy file (I always use the biggest file possible - you get a better finish that way and it saves time). The second photo shows the use of a thumb nail to protect the bit you don't want cut; I like to have files with one safe edge.

 

donqwz.jpg

wao9zs.jpg

 

Inside this piece of brass the following shape was waiting to come out:

 

1zmh4xs.jpg

 

The bottom curve of the valance was bent up using pliers. The cylinder was isolated from the valence by sweating it on to some very thin double sided PCB, the paxolin weave is visible in the previous picture.

 

1z1gwus.jpg

ir6hww.jpg

 

The outer face of copper was filed away to leave the paxolin as an insulating surface, not that the copper had to be removed, but I needed the clearance for the valence.

 

Final results is deceptively simple but it is, in fact, a gloriously complicated shape which took a lot of finishing.

 

5y55af.jpg

 

In the cold light of day I will probably flatten down the flare a bit and bring the rear cut out slightly forward. The cylinder is looking a trifle long.

 

Tim

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There would be a lot to be said for making an engine in low relief Don. After soldering, I would say that accurate filing is the most important skill when scratch building - I have tried to show this in the posts on LP.

 

At least I won't be photographing the second one and it will, for sure, be quicker to make.

 

Tim

Edited by CF MRC
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Impressive work Tim. Is it my eyes or has your streamlined nose lost its downward slope forward of the cylinders? Hate to see you do all that work and miss a subtlety.

 

Cheers

Dave

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No change Dave, definitely downhill at the front.

laz68.jpg

I might sharpen up and thin the white metal casting a bit on the edge, as it has softened edges due to handling.

 

Tim

 

(Edited to show picture)

Edited by CF MRC
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I'm resurecting a Queen Mary brake van kit I started ages ago, c.2009. It had been started before I learned to solder, so superglued together and then painted the wrong shade of brown. After spending most of a day in a jar of acetone it was back to kit form. The main structure is back together and it shouldn't take too long to get it finished. Until I get distracted by the next project that is...

IMG_9437_zpsjyffmrcz.jpg

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Front end on LP Tweaked a bit. Anti-slip grids re made and the bulge over the cylinder flared in rather more. Good enough for Government work, methinks. (The hole in the front skirt is to open up the 'cod's mouth' - non working).

 

167uyc7.jpg

 

ny8qjn.jpg

 

2lcqvxe.jpg

 

Now for the other side.

Tim

 

Edited to show a cod's mouth

Edited by CF MRC
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As hinted at in my last post (#1517) I have started work on the rest of the signals for Kirkallanmuir, firstly by assembling the remaining drop flap ground signals required and secondly assembling the etch I designed for the Up Inner Home.

 

post-25077-0-61482600-1484162716_thumb.jpg

 

This etch was on a sheet of artwork from which two sheets of etches were ordered in order to get sufficient of other items on the sheet.  This was fortunate as I made a pigs a**s of bending up the first doll! :fool:   At least that taught me how not to do it!

 

The arms have to be painted before they are fitted and the one on the main post has to be fitted before the ladder is attached as you can't get at the back blinder to solder it onto the arm pivot once the ladder is fitted.

 

The right hand arm (which signals movements into the down platform) is 'off' due to the fact that it won't stay 'on' because of the weight of the arm plus the operating wire.  The arm on the main post only just stays 'on'.  This will not be a problem once the signal is fitted into its operating mechanism and in any case the arms need to be as free moving as possible.  This signal will have a drop flap mounted at ground level directly in front of it which will allow shunting movements past the signal to shunt the up sidings.

 

Painting will be completed once I have the other two signals built.  While I was turning the pinnacles and lamps for these two I did another couple for them while i was at it.

 

Jim

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Lord President has got bigger. I have now gapped the frame spacers and temporarily coupled up the tender. Tried using an engine to move her on my S shaped test track and it wasn't a great success. Two singles and a Baldwin managed it. The wheels on LP were not locking up, but the all up weight of this engine is considerable, there are a lot of axles and no real slop! If someone has a seriously grunty diesel at Stevenage, then the engine might get round CF. I suspect Bill Blackburns A4 mechanism would also probably manage it.

 

6z7s4z.jpg

 

29d77ue.jpg

 

Tim

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Lord President has got bigger. I have now gapped the frame spacers and temporarily coupled up the tender. Tried using an engine to move her on my S shaped test track and it wasn't a great success. Two singles and a Baldwin managed it. The wheels on LP were not locking up, but the all up weight of this engine is considerable, there are a lot of axles and no real slop! If someone has a seriously grunty diesel at Stevenage, then the engine might get round CF. I suspect Bill Blackburns A4 mechanism would also probably manage it. 6z7s4z.jpg29d77ue.jpg

Tim

A magnificent beast despite the fact that this loco has more wheels than all my favourite engines of yours combined! Look forward to seeing it at the weekend.

 

Jerry

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Some more progress on the new layout. All the points are in place and I've nearly completed the intermediate trackwork. Just a couple of second rails to be soldered onto a few short lengths. Then on to wiring and a sector plate:

 

25zs9dz.jpg

 

Meanwhile I've been painting and lettering some 1887 RCH wagons. I figured that if they're around thirty years old, they'll be pretty grotty:

 

rarhqp.jpg

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It's rather rare that my bursts of 2mm modelling last long enough for whatever new kit I've ordered to arrive. Usually, it will have to wait for the next time I feel like working in 2mm. However, at the moment things are going quite well and I've been virtually 2mm only since Christmas. This has given Royal Mail and USPS time to work together and bring me new sheets of nickel silver. This arrived yesterday and I started today. About 45 minutes invested so far. Can you tell what it is?

IMG_9449_zpsuia6docz.jpg

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It's rather rare that my bursts of 2mm modelling last long enough for whatever new kit I've ordered to arrive. Usually, it will have to wait for the next time I feel like working in 2mm. However, at the moment things are going quite well and I've been virtually 2mm only since Christmas. This has given Royal Mail and USPS time to work together and bring me new sheets of nickel silver. This arrived yesterday and I started today. About 45 minutes invested so far. Can you tell what it is?

 

Nicely done so far. Is it an LSWR M7 0-4-4T, perchance? ...Is there a prize?  :prankster:

Edited by Phil Copleston
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It's rather rare that my bursts of 2mm modelling last long enough for whatever new kit I've ordered to arrive. Usually, it will have to wait for the next time I feel like working in 2mm. However, at the moment things are going quite well and I've been virtually 2mm only since Christmas. This has given Royal Mail and USPS time to work together and bring me new sheets of nickel silver. This arrived yesterday and I started today. About 45 minutes invested so far. Can you tell what it is?

]

Hi Gareth, like you I struggle to resist making a start on a new etch!

 

Can I suggest a different order of construction which you may find helps get a nice square body. Yours is not the first 2mm build I've followed where the cab, tanks etc are soldered to the footplate first which, to me, makes life more difficult later.

 

I would suggest you first solder the valances and buffer beams to the footplate followed by either the body fixing bolts or pads that can be drilled and tapped.

 

Next cut a small piece of thin ply or similar that is a snug fit under the footplate and between the valances and buffer beams. You can now bolt the body down to the ply using the body fixing points and you have a nice flat surface to start building up the superstructure.

 

I build the basic body and chassis alongside each other so that the fit of the two can be constantly checked - important in 2mm where there is often little room to spare.

 

What Phil said, an M7?

 

 

Hope that's helpful,

Jerry

[,

Edited by queensquare
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Thanks Jerry, that's really useful. I had thought about putting the valences on, but I was worried about attaching the body afterwards and bending the footplate. I'll sort out a block of wood and start over. The wheels and other bits are on their way, once they're here I'll figure out the chassis.

 

Yes, it is a M7, very well identified.

Edited by garethashenden
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Thanks Jerry, that's really useful. I had thought about putting the valences on, but I was worried about attaching the body afterwards and bending the footplate. I'll sort out a block of wood and start over. The wheels and other bits are on their way, once they're here I'll figure out the chassis.

 

Yes, it is a M7, very well identified.

 

Just in case you didn't know, the new chassis etch for an M7 will suit this body (I'm assuming this is the Worsley 2mm etch). Dapol did some strange stuff with their M7 body, its not 1:148, more like 1:152 but with the extended front. So I just designed the chassis etch to 2mm scale, which happened to match the splasher positions on the Dapol version.

 

Chris

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Just in case you didn't know, the new chassis etch for an M7 will suit this body (I'm assuming this is the Worsley 2mm etch). Dapol did some strange stuff with their M7 body, its not 1:148, more like 1:152 but with the extended front. So I just designed the chassis etch to 2mm scale, which happened to match the splasher positions on the Dapol version.

 

Chris

Thanks Chris, I'll keep that in mind. I'm going to try to use the Worsley chassis first. I think it will be more of a challenge to adapt a chassis rather than just building one. I'm trying to ease myself into this rather than diving in at the scratchbuilding end of the pool. But it's good to know I have options if it all goes pear shaped.

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Given the high quality of scratch built chassis shown on this thread I'm ashamed to say that today after numerous attempts I have finally got a Steamer running ( I think about ten  years ago I started this quest  :fool: )  

 

 

 

Its the M7 built as a 0-4-2-2  its crude by others standards but it works and trundles up and down my test track happily,  the bogie  or is it a pony  caused me problems but appears to be ok.  I must say I prefer the laminated frames more than the single etch ones even if my method of laminating was crude ( I used the cooker  :onthequiet: )

 

Now to revisit all those ones shoved away in boxes  but that can wait until after the weekend,  need to clean the track ready for Line No20 Mongehams first and probably only public appearance at the Canterbury Model Railway Exhibition  http://www.ukmodelshops.co.uk/events/13831-CityofCanterburyModelRailwaySocietyCanterburyModelRailwayExhibition  21-22 January 2017, with a small 2mm publicity stand presented by Martin Allen and myself, if your visiting say hello.

 

Nick

Edited by nick_bastable
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Thanks Chris, I'll keep that in mind. I'm going to try to use the Worsley chassis first. I think it will be more of a challenge to adapt a chassis rather than just building one. I'm trying to ease myself into this rather than diving in at the scratchbuilding end of the pool. But it's good to know I have options if it all goes pear shaped.

I think there was an article on building the Worseley Works M7 in the 2mm Mag about five years ago possibly 2012. It makes up into a beautiful model as I've seen it running.

Oli

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