garethashenden Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 Following Jerry's advice I took everything apart, attached the valances and bufferbeams and formed a block of wood to suit. Then I reattached the previously removed bodyparts and a few new ones. That was all yesterday. Today I started working on the chassis. The Ultrascale 38:1 gears are in the post and I'll be driving the rear axle. I enlarged the holes in the frames and fitted phosphor bronze bearings. Next I folded up the frames. I think that's about it until my order from Shop 3 arrives with the wheels, frame spacers, et cetera. The boiler tube is cut to length, but not soldered in place. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 Given the high quality of scratch built chassis shown on this thread I'm ashamed to say that today after numerous attempts I have finally got a Steamer running ( I think about ten years ago I started this quest ) DSC_4680a.jpg Its the M7 built as a 0-4-2-2 its crude by others standards but it works and trundles up and down my test track happily, the bogie or is it a pony caused me problems but appears to be ok. I must say I prefer the laminated frames more than the single etch ones even if my method of laminating was crude ( I used the cooker ) [...] I wonder if this replacement chassis is suitable for the SECR Wainwright Class H (Driving Wheel: 5 ft 6 ins Trailing Wheel: 3 ft 7 ins, Length: 33 ft). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium nick_bastable Posted January 20, 2017 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 20, 2017 whats the wheelbases of the drivers ? Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethashenden Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 whats the wheelbases of the drivers ? Nick The coupled wheelbase is 7'6" for both engines. The differences come with the bogie wheelbase and the distance between the rear driver and the bogie. The M7 has a 6'6" bogie with 9'7" from the rear driver to the first bogie axle. The H has a 5'0" bogie with 11'10" from the rear driver to the first bogie axle. The total wheelbase of the M7 is 23'7" whereas the H has a total wheelbase of 21'10". Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted January 21, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 21, 2017 The coupled wheelbase is 7'6" for both engines. The differences come with the bogie wheelbase and the distance between the rear driver and the bogie. The M7 has a 6'6" bogie with 9'7" from the rear driver to the first bogie axle. The H has a 5'0" bogie with 11'10" from the rear driver to the first bogie axle. The total wheelbase of the M7 is 23'7" whereas the H has a total wheelbase of 21'10". Something doesn't add up there the figures gives the M7 as the stated 23ft7in but those for the H add up to 24ft 4in not the 21ft10in stated which is correct? The main issue would seem to be the position of the cutouts to clear the bogie wheels as it swings. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 The coupled wheelbase is 7'6" for both engines. The differences come with the bogie wheelbase and the distance between the rear driver and the bogie. The M7 has a 6'6" bogie with 9'7" from the rear driver to the first bogie axle. The H has a 5'0" bogie with 11'10" from the rear driver to the first bogie axle. The total wheelbase of the M7 is 23'7" whereas the H has a total wheelbase of 21'10". You could use the M7 chassis. But you will have to drive off the rear axle, as there is broad daylight under the boiler on the H where the front wheel drive of the M7 chassis is found. Alternatively (and already done by Pete Townsend I believe) is to use the chassis off the GWR 14XX (7' 4" wheelbase in N = 7' 6.5" in 1:152) which already has the drive off the rear axle. Either way you are on your own with the bogie. Unless that is you decide to do a cut-and-shut with the rear end of an O2. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 Something doesn't add up there the figures gives the M7 as the stated 23ft7in but those for the H add up to 24ft 4in not the 21ft10in stated which is correct? The main issue would seem to be the position of the cutouts to clear the bogie wheels as it swings. The 11'10" is to the bogie centre, not the front wheel of the bogie. Hence the 2'6" difference. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
oily Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 (edited) I think there was an article on building the Worseley Works M7 in the 2mm Mag about five years ago possibly 2012. It makes up into a beautiful model as I've seen it running. Oli Here's a picture of the loco running this week. Sadly the paint on the chassis and wheels is getting a bit chipped. And the photo is a bit cruel as it's roughly twice life size! Oli Edited January 21, 2017 by oily 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yorkshire Square Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 That's a very nice loco. Considering the prototype! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted January 21, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 21, 2017 Tony did a lovely job on that. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted January 22, 2017 Share Posted January 22, 2017 For those who may be interested, I've just posted the latest work on Kirkallanmuir at http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/95081-kirkallanmuir/page-3&do=findComment&comment=2587370. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethashenden Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 I've been tying to figure out where I want to put the motor in the M7 while waiting for the gears to arrive. I want as much of the boiler as possible filled with lead, so the motor will be behind the drivers powering the second axle. The question is where to put the motor. I can put it in the firebox, where it will intrude slightly into the cab, or I can put it in the bunker, where it will still intrude into the cab but leaves more room for weight over the drivers. Either way, I plan on putting the decoder in the bunker. I have two motor options as well, Nigel Lawton's 10 and 8mm motors. The 8mm is often said to be better, but it is noticeably longer, which is a problem if I'm trying to keep it hidden. So that gives me four options, 8mm in the firebox, 8mm in the bunker, 10mm in the firebox, and 10mm in the bunker. I think 10mm in the firebox is the best option but I'm not sure. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium CF MRC Posted January 23, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 23, 2017 (edited) 8mm low down in the cab/bunker will scarcely be visible with a driver & fireman in each opening. This type of 0-4-4 is not difficult to make heavy enough at the front. Tim Edited January 23, 2017 by CF MRC Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted January 23, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 23, 2017 8mm low down in the cab/bunker will scarcely be visible with a driver & fireman in each opening. This type of 0-4-4 is not difficult to make heavy enough at the front. Tim Id agree with Tim. As for the motor, go with the Lawton 8mm which is much better than the 10mm to the extent that I am now re-motoring the few locos I have with a 10mm in, including a couple of tender locos where space/visibility isn't an issue. Jerry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium CF MRC Posted January 24, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 24, 2017 I have been working on Lord President's tender. It had turned out a bit wide, as it was originally made around an A1 Foxhunter models white metal core. This was removed and the tender reduced in width so that it is now just 0.5 mm narrower than the cab. The running plate was fretted out at the MEE at Ally Pally and the two outside frames made tonight. Two strips of metal were superglued together and then filed to shape. The first photo shows using a round needle file to cut in the curved frame contours around each axle box hornway. Boundaries were marked out using a gramophone needle scriber in a pin chuck. The second photo shows a pillar file being used to cut down the raised bit between each slot, so giving the final desired shape. After a bit of tidying up The pair just resting against the tender wheels to check everything lines up. And then there were two! Running plate behind Making items like this can be very quick and quite satisfying when it all fits together. Finally, Tony Wright took some wonderful photos of the beast at Stevenage a couple of weekends ago, amazing how much better a proper camera is than an iPhone! Tim 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 Boundaries were marked out using a gramophone needle scriber in a pin chuck. Tim Nice to see you are always up to date with the latest in tool technologies, Tim. Is that for 33 or 78 rpm? Chris 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yorkshire Square Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 Nice to see you are always up to date with the latest in tool technologies, Tim. Is that for 33 or 78 rpm? Chris Oh, definitely 78! Could have been wax cylinder though... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium CF MRC Posted January 24, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 24, 2017 I find the Shure M75ED sylus cartridge replacement on my 33rpm deck hopeless for scribing. I was given a pretty little tin of needles aeons ago! Very useful too. For the dinosaurs amongst us try: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/His-Masters-Voice-High-Fidelity-Long-playing-needles-Packet-of-10-/232199916021#viTabs_0 Tim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kylestrome Posted January 24, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 24, 2017 (edited) Boundaries were marked out using a gramophone needle scriber in a pin chuck. Tim That reminds me of something else: But I won't start calling Tim "Grandad"! Edited January 24, 2017 by Kylestrome 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium CF MRC Posted January 24, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 24, 2017 Afraid I am, David! Tim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 Oh, definitely 78! Could have been wax cylinder though... Hang on while I look out those instructions on building an RSU out of phonograph components... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yorkshire Square Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 I find the Shure M75ED sylus cartridge replacement on my 33rpm deck hopeless for scribing. I was given a pretty little tin of needles aeons ago! Very useful too. For the dinosaurs amongst us try: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/His-Masters-Voice-High-Fidelity-Long-playing-needles-Packet-of-10-/232199916021#viTabs_0 Tim Bill Rankin gave me a dozen or so industrial sewing machine needles many years ago. They're very useful for scribing and marking and can be rehoned quite effectively. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Ian Morgan Posted January 24, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 24, 2017 amazing how much better a proper camera is than an iPhone! The mobile phone manufacturers just go on about Mpixies, but once you have at least 10Mpixies, its the lens that makes the difference. Similarly, cameras made by electronics companies (Sony, Panasonic, Casio, etc) may have more gadgets and clever features, but will never produce photos as good as traditional camera makers (Canon, Olympus, Nikon, etc) who know how to make a good lens. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yorkshire Square Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 The mobile phone manufacturers just go on about Mpixies... Do they live in your phone? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Ian Morgan Posted January 24, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 24, 2017 They live on cookies Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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