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Whats on your 2mm Work bench


nick_bastable
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The knotted hankie is not accepted Masonic regalia. I think it has Lancastrian origins and may be worn by Ecky-Thump Grand Masters, a sort of undress version of the giant flat cap.

 

(If you don't remember the 'Goodies' on 1970s British TV then you may have to use Google to edumucate yourself...)

 

Edward S

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The knotted hankie is not accepted Masonic regalia. I think it has Lancastrian origins and may be worn by Ecky-Thump Grand Masters, a sort of undress version of the giant flat cap.

 

(If you don't remember the 'Goodies' on 1970s British TV then you may have to use Google to edumucate yourself...)

 

Edward S

 

 

That might explain the strange looks I receive when I turn up to 2mm Scale events looking like my avatar.   :scratchhead:  

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That might explain the strange looks I receive when I turn up to 2mm Scale events looking like my avatar.   :scratchhead:  

If you were to turn up at our next meeting in douce Morningside (posh area of Edinburgh), you would get plenty before you even got there!  In fact given the forecast, you might die of hypothermia before you arrived!

 

Jim

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Having thought long and hard about the brake gear for Lord President, I have decided that it should be semi-removable. To achieve this it needs some substantial pillars attached to the chassis, so that the brake hangers can clip on across the frames. The chassis had already been drilled for 16 BA bolts in this region, so some steel bolts were modified to give a shoulder against which the brake hanger would seat. These eight bolts needed to be identical so a simple filing jig was made from a bit of large bore syringe needle to protect the thread near the head whilst the rest was turned in the lathe.

 

5amg5s.jpgj

 

rsf0gg.jpg

 

10x4lts.jpg

 

The bolts were nipped into place with a bit of solder. The rear pillar could be a bit longer, because it doesn't have to clear the coupling rod.

 

2hwi32f.jpg

 

Tim

Edited by CF MRC
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Hot finger time! Here's a few bits of trackwork for a micro-layout I have in mind, to try out some ideas buzzing around in my batty belfry before committing to a larger layout.

 

post-7249-0-75947900-1486668695_thumb.jpg

 

From top to bottom, the wagon turntable is a disc of 1.5mm PCB turned in the lathe with a brass tube pivot. It's going to be live and only has to rotate through about 15 to 20 degrees, so it'll have one side wired to the pivot and the other to a wire running up through the tube.

 

In the middle is a straightforward A6 turnout made using the Association soldering jig & template system.

 

At the bottom is a mixed gauge (9.42mm & 6.5mm) turnout. I used the soldering jig to keep the sleepers in place but pretty much laid it by eye, putting the straight stock rail, crossing and diverging stock rail in place then setting out the other rails to gauge from there.

 

The PCB strip is some old 1.1mm thick material I've had in stock for ages.

 

post-7249-0-35981000-1486669114_thumb.jpg

 

Here's a closer view of the mixed gauge turnout. In theory, it could have been done without a moving point blade but that would require a pretty sharp divergence of the narrow gauge side. As it is the radius of the 6.5mm gauge is about 9".  Stock runs through smoothly enough.

 

You'll notice I'm using plain strip rail. That's because the narrow gauge section will have the code 30 strip rail and I felt it best to have a consistent style of rail throughout. It's also very easy to use when shaping crossing vees and point blades

 

Some of the non-dual gauge track will be using plastic moulded sleepers produced by Denys Brownlee. These are a little bit thicker than the current Association standard, hence the thicker point PCB strip. Dual gauge track will be soldered.

 

Still to be made is a 6.5mm turnout, which will be probably be completely conventional although it might be fun to try a stub turnout.

 

Mark

 

 

 

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looks like fun to wire and gap  :O

 

Nick

 

No different to an ordinary turnout, really. If you study the photo, the only additional rail is at the toe. Where it gets tricky is when both gauges carry through the turnout in all routes. Then you end up with 3 crossings and not much room to move.

 

Mark

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I have made the front pony wheels for Lord President with a nearer to scale diameter axle. Photos below show how.

 

Stub axle being centre drilled with a gramophone needle ground to a pyramidal shape on the tip (especially for Chris)

2zdmyyu.jpg

 

An action shot showing it being drilled out 0.9 mm. The depth to drill is shown by the marker pen ink in the drill flute.

2pphmb5.jpg

 

The insulation is provided by a glass reinforced epoxy resin rod. These have dental uses - we published quite a few papers on them a few years ago. It will never fatigue in this application and is being reduced to size in this image.

120l4wp.jpg

 

The stub axle ends were tapered away from the bearing area, as per the real thing. The insulating epoxy resin on the pony truck is clearly visible. This truck needs 2mm wide bearing guards at the front and a stretcher to complete it.

2unuhrd.jpg

 

Front view is much improved for not having a visible muff. The wheel will be painted and then the axle assembled, probably with a smear of epoxy resin or Loctite.

2wnwn4x.jpg

 

I have stripped the chassis down now and assembled the motor and gearbox with a 10 mm diameter x 3.5 mm deep flywheel on the back of the motor. I decided to blacken and then paint the wheels, as it would be tedious to keep taking the mechanism apart for painting. The chassis has also been chemically blackened.

 

Whilst waiting for the paint to harden off, I have begun to make the ash pan. There are some dinky little brackets to support the running plate that also need to be made, certainly easier before it all goes back together again.

 

Tim

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Well here is LP's flywheel. It pretty well fills the firebox and certainly makes the motor run-on a bit when the juice is turned off.

35k5yec.jpg

 

The running plate support brackets, ashpan and its support bracket have now all been made and fitted. The running plate brackets have small pads of thin PCB soldered on to the vertical component to prevent a short across the frames. The ashpan was made from two large blocks of nickel silver. This was at the limit of soldering, as were the associated brackets as it all acts as a very effective heat sink. Still, plenty of flux and with the iron turned right up we just managed it.

 

sqi7ep.jpg

The brackets on the near side are cut back to take the reversing linkage, which will be interesting to make in one piece.

 

29mm98i.jpg

It's not obvious from these photos, but if the engine had been made with scale size driving wheels, none of these details could have been fitted and the brake gear most certainly would have been impossible. Might get the engine running soon.

 

Tim

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I have made the front pony wheels for Lord President with a nearer to scale diameter axle. Photos below show how.

 

Stub axle being centre drilled with a gramophone needle ground to a pyramidal shape on the tip (especially for Chris)

2zdmyyu.jpg

 

An action shot showing it being drilled out 0.9 mm. The depth to drill is shown by the marker pen ink in the drill flute.

2pphmb5.jpg

 

The insulation is provided by a glass reinforced epoxy resin rod. These have dental uses - we published quite a few papers on them a few years ago. It will never fatigue in this application and is being reduced to size in this image.

120l4wp.jpg

 

The stub axle ends were tapered away from the bearing area, as per the real thing. The insulating epoxy resin on the pony truck is clearly visible. This truck needs 2mm wide bearing guards at the front and a stretcher to complete it.

2unuhrd.jpg

 

Front view is much improved for not having a visible muff. The wheel will be painted and then the axle assembled, probably with a smear of epoxy resin or Loctite.

2wnwn4x.jpg

 

I have stripped the chassis down now and assembled the motor and gearbox with a 10 mm diameter x 3.5 mm deep flywheel on the back of the motor. I decided to blacken and then paint the wheels, as it would be tedious to keep taking the mechanism apart for painting. The chassis has also been chemically blackened.

 

Whilst waiting for the paint to harden off, I have begun to make the ash pan. There are some dinky little brackets to support the running plate that also need to be made, certainly easier before it all goes back together again.

 

Tim

 

That's interesting.  Given me some ideas for the pony trucks on my A-W diesel.

 

post-7249-0-11209700-1486892737_thumb.jpg

 

Talking to Alan Smith a few days ago, sometimes there are stresses within the wheel castings which can get released in a drilling or machining process.  You might have dodged a bullet here!

 

Mark

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I have turned up the Association castings before when I did the front wheels of the 8' single. It is certainly a hard brass and machines beautifully, but doesn't take prisoners: it needs very sharp tools.

 

Tim

Edited by CF MRC
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Well, Lord President now works after a five year gestation.

 

The chassis was set up with the non-gearbox wheels at 120 degree settings (it's a three cylinder engine don't forget). Once these were running OK with the coupling rods on, then the gearbox and motor was slipped between the frames and the driven wheels set up to match. The engine then ran under its own power. Before assembly, the Maxon motor/gearbox was given a fag paper and Araldite insulating layer on the undersurface where it rests on the frames. This was augmented by a piece of insulating tape, as I wanted the motor to be able to float with the axle gearbox (visible in the underside view). If using a gearbox it is better to let it float, otherwise it will pitch and bind against the loco axle bearings.

 

Having upped the insulating layer thickness a little, the motor was then somewhat raised compared to where I had originally envisaged. So the engine worked well without the body, but there was simply not enough room for the motor and gearbox to float freely with it bolted down. It needed a fair bit of adjustment. This is what we call a GSOB* exercise in my profession when a casting doesn't fit. The third photo shows the fit surface of the boiler in relation to the motor and chassis.

 

The engine seems quite powerful on the test track and runs nice and slowly with a very adequate top speed for CF (72:1 gear ratio). Nothing is lubricated, as I want to line the loco wheels before they get contaminated with oil - it should therefore free up a bit after that.

 

The final photo shows the brackets around the frames. The XO4 style motor mounting is now pretty well hidden, especially as there is the reversing gear on the near side and speedometer drive on the off side to further catch the eye.

 

Tim

 

 

*GSOB - Grind Sh1t Out of the Bastard

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post-13388-0-98984600-1487020536.jpg

post-13388-0-98128900-1487020694.jpg

post-13388-0-55517800-1487021083.jpg

Edited by CF MRC
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For the squeamish, or dental phobics, look away now.

 

The reversing linkage on the Walschaerts-fitted P2s passes behind the firebox cladding, nips across the running plate very briefly and then dives underneath the running plate to pick up the motion support bracket at the front. I hadn't taken this into account when making the running plate, so had to cut a small slot to allow passage of the linkage. This would normally be a recipe for many broken drills, but I was fortunate to be able to use a dental turbine and a fine diamond bur to scratch out the slot.

 

whjlm1.jpg

 

The picture of Earl Marischal shows the path of the linkage.

 

2uh1pxj.jpg

 

Whilst this close up of 2005 shows the business end. I have a representation already sketched-in for the lifting linkage, but this photo shows exactly how it would work. You can even see the lubricator linkage behind.

 

2vkfe5d.jpg

 

Engine photos are essential for making accurate models, but you have to be careful not end up with a model of 'Cock of the Earl President'.

 

Tim

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