Parthia27 Posted December 11, 2013 Share Posted December 11, 2013 I thought I'd just see if anyone has any experience in fitting a Smokey Valley GP38-2 Handrail Kit to HO deisels, my model to receive such is going to be an Athearn Genesis GP38-2 - I'm fed up with the flimsy efforts fitted by Athearn and want something that is more durable and that doesn't bend when breathed on :-). The kit I have purchased looks the part, I would normally hand paint such details when fitted to the model but I can also airbrush them away from the model and fit painted. My major question is are there any pitfalls to be aware of such as paint adherance and are there any assembly issues to take into account. I really don't want to screw up an expensive model hence my request for info. Thanks in advance, Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Talltim Posted December 11, 2013 Share Posted December 11, 2013 Looking forward to anyone else's experiences too Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Williams Posted December 11, 2013 Share Posted December 11, 2013 I'll be interested to see how this goes as I loathe plastic handrails. They are the spawn of Satan. Are the Smokey Valley all pre-formed/ and do they come with rigid plastic or metal stanchions? As far as painting wire handrails are concerned, I only ever did so on an Athearn blue box SD402. I sprayed with Halford's grey primer and then sprayed them black on top. They haven't flaked but then , the locomotive hasn't seen any use either!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alfsboy Posted December 11, 2013 Share Posted December 11, 2013 I installed some brass ones on an Athearn years ago for someone .I installed all the stanchions checking heights then the wire bent to shape .I then soldered all the wire to the stanchions. I think PB wire is better than brass form memory .After that I removed the whole lot and sprayed them with primer then airbrushed the colour ,I touched in the white ends by hand after reinstalling .I hope it helps . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Talltim Posted December 11, 2013 Share Posted December 11, 2013 It might be worth using chemical blackening before painting, for dark handrail colours. If the paint chips it won't be so obvious Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doctor quinn Posted December 11, 2013 Share Posted December 11, 2013 I used them on a CP Rail GP30 that I started a "work in progress" thread on in the forum. I used 0.5mm steel wire soldered to the stanchions and like Steve I then took them off the loco and used car primer then airbrushed with Tamiya acrylic over. I used graph paper to protect the body side and keep the stanchions upright while I soldered them. Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Gerbil-Fritters Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 I fitted Smokey Valley handrails to an elderly Atlas SD35 a goodly number of years ago... If I recall correctly, the stanchions were rubbish - mis-shapen and completely flat and they bent if you looked at them too hard. On my second attempt I re-used the Atlas stanchions, drilling through each one and sliding them onto the Smokey Valley wire. It looks ok, but to be honest I'm not sure it was worth the faff. Never again... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alfsboy Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 I didnt use Smokey Valley but some cast brass ones for Backshop probably .Don Drew at PFM supplied them so not sure .They looked good and were good quality .TJPrantle on ebay sell them I think .iIwas looking to replace my Genset ones which are rubbish but Atlas are making replacements at some point .i have a set on order . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parthia27 Posted December 12, 2013 Author Share Posted December 12, 2013 Guys, thanks for your responses. I'm going to have a crack at fitting a set over the next few days. The stanchions I have do look a bit ropey but will hopefully straighten up and clean up nicely. I'm going to bend up and solder some 0.33mm brass wire to the stanchions while they are in place on the model, then remove the whole assembly for priming and painting before refitting. I'll let you all know how I get on. Cheers Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parthia27 Posted December 12, 2013 Author Share Posted December 12, 2013 I used them on a CP Rail GP30 that I started a "work in progress" thread on in the forum. I used 0.5mm steel wire soldered to the stanchions and like Steve I then took them off the loco and used car primer then airbrushed with Tamiya acrylic over. I used graph paper to protect the body side and keep the stanchions upright while I soldered them. Nick Hi Nick, thanks for the tips, clever idea regarding the use of graph paper :-) Cheers Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parthia27 Posted December 12, 2013 Author Share Posted December 12, 2013 Ok quick update, I have just test fitted a set of stanchions to one side of my GP38-2 and have to say that even after a deal of fettling and tidying up the lost wax castings to my eye look terrible :-(. It has to look good on a loco this detailed so I have decided to try the method I have seen explained by both Tony Sissons and Brian Banna and use Athearn RTR plastic stanchions drilled out to 0.011" and threaded with DA 0.010" brass wire. Really disappointed that this has not worked out but as they say, you live and learn! I've just ordered the appropriate items ordered from across the pond so they will take a while to arrive. I may "Christmas Tree" (aka canabalise) a RTR SD40-2 for it's stanchions in the mean time and replace them using the above method when I get round to detailing it. It's what we do at work when we need to keep a fleet in service when spares are scarce so why not adopt the principle here :-). More tomorrow I hope if I go down the donor route. Cheers ChrisM Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parthia27 Posted December 24, 2013 Author Share Posted December 24, 2013 Hello, Just a quick update. Yesterday I received the Athearn Stanchions from the US and I had a try at drilling out several by hand last night using a #80 drill. I very quickly realised after an hour or so of cursing, grumbling and other non publishable ranting that I needed to go away and revisit the problem today and look at fettling up some sort of Jig as described by Tony Sissons over on the Protomodeller forum. So I'm now going to finish my domestic chores for the day, do a bit of stuff for work that needs to be looked at and then this afternoon tackle the problem with a clear mind. I'll let you know how I get on (or not). Festive greetings to all. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parthia27 Posted December 24, 2013 Author Share Posted December 24, 2013 Ok, this afternoon things are going better. I have constructed a jig similar to that recommended by Tony Sissons here http://www.protomodeler.com/index.php?/topic/1093-stanchion-drilling-jig/ and so far have managed to successfully drill 3 out of 5 stanchions and thread them with 0.25mm wire. I will try to take some photos later on (not my strong point), but I will say that this is not for the faint hearted. Off to do some more now, only 25 to go :-0. Cheers Chris M Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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