JeffP Posted January 31, 2014 Share Posted January 31, 2014 Specifically with gun-blue. How much do I do? What about the treads and rears where pickups will ride? And I assume I clean to bare metal before using the gun-blue? I ask because my Slaters wheels up in the loft (my "workshop"), are rusting. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted January 31, 2014 Share Posted January 31, 2014 I don't use gun-blue, I use Carrs blackening for N-S Steel, but reckon they are about the same chemically. Nearly all Slaters wheels seem to go rusty depending on how long they are exposed to air and flux vapours as you progress a build. I clean as much of the rust off, usual glass fibre pen, or fine emery, or fine Garyflex (your choice) then "paint" everything with a cotton bud dipped in the solution. Repeat as required to get an even appearance. Don't worry about conductivity, the "black" is conductive. However the treads will shine up or wear through with use and if you use wire pickups they will quickly scratch they own path. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted January 31, 2014 Author Share Posted January 31, 2014 Thank you for a quick and well-explained response. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted January 31, 2014 Share Posted January 31, 2014 ... and don't forget this is a chemical process involving a very toxic solution - I certainly would not want to get any of it on my hands let alone in an eye. But it is a nice idea for easier and probably quicker cleaning step. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted January 31, 2014 Author Share Posted January 31, 2014 Yes, it is. I don't think I'd want to combine it with a fibreglass brush, though....... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted January 31, 2014 Share Posted January 31, 2014 Jeff - the topic has been ringing one of those Deja Vu bell moments in my head - then it clicked Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted February 1, 2014 Author Share Posted February 1, 2014 I thought I remembered seeing that too, but couldn't remember where......how come I can remember what happened forty years ago so well, then????????? Anyway, when I searched I searched about blackening and gun blue but couldn't find anything. I ended up with a gun-blue stick...sort of like a big magic marker. The gunshop bloke says it's less wasteful. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
buffalo Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 ...Anyway, when I searched I searched about blackening and gun blue but couldn't find anything... How did you achieve that? Entering "blackening and gun blue", without the quotes, into the search box at top right of every page, and making sure that "Google site search" is selected will get you pages of results. ...I ended up with a gun-blue stick...sort of like a big magic marker. The gunshop bloke says it's less wasteful.Whatever approach you use, a good burnishing with anything from a cotton bud to fine steel wool between each application will ensure even coverage and avoid the build up of loose material from multiple applications. Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 Steel wool for me. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted March 12, 2014 Author Share Posted March 12, 2014 I've dug this up again to add another question: how long should the gun-blue last in keeping the wheels rustless? The tender wheels and axles for Alcazar have been out of their packets a while now..... ....and went rusty. I cleaned them up and blued them about a month ago, but they are rusty again. This also raises the question: how do I stop ALL my wheels going rusty, should I EVER start a layout in the loft? Or is it not worth doing? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 This also raises the question: how do I stop ALL my wheels going rusty, should I EVER start a layout in the loft? Or is it not worth doing? Get the loco finished and run it at least once a week. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 gun blue can take on an appearance of rust after a few hours if you have not removed it. To stop that just give it a rub over with a damp cloth. then a light coat of thin oil will do. But not on the side that you want to paint. Paint oil etc. But keeping them in any sort of room with them not working won't help. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeatherKay Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 OzzyO's answered the problem. When I use Birchwood Casey to blacken Slater's wheels, after a good scrub with brass or steel brushes, I always let the chemicals dry, then buff the results up with a bit of cloth or kitchen towel. I admit I don't do the light oil coating. I have a 57xx under construction, and the wheels were blackened as the first operation in the build. No signs of rust, though they haven't been out of the workshop or anywhere where the temperature or humidity fluctuates markedly. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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