JeffP Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 I've seen various systems, from handrail knobs to pieces of "L" shaped brass, but nothing made specifically, which surprises me. With handrail knobs, how does one get theholes in the ones on the frames at the correct distance in so that the wire is a straight line through those and through the ones on the bearings? And how does one drill the thin top edge of the bearing accurately to insert a handrail knob? With "L" shaped brass, the problems are that it's very fiddly trying to mark, drill and cut brass angle so that each one is identical, or nearly so. THEN you have the added problems of positioning before soldering so that everything lines up. Does no-one make anything for this system, etched bits etc? I wondered about something like this: Which would at least allow the bearing tag to be fitted easily. On my (not very good, pencil) drawing, the part on the left would be in etched brass, then bent across the top of the bearing, the tag bent up and twisted through 90 degrees, before being soldered in place. I'm still unsure about the side ones, having made some for an 8-wheeled tender, they take an age to make. Any comments or suggestions? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Happy Hippo Posted February 3, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 3, 2014 High Level is your friend! Have a look at their CSB jig and carrier tag system. http://www.highlevelkits.co.uk/ hth Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Cram Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 London Road Models do a etch for 4mm. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 One small problem: JeffP works in 7mm scale. I wonder if he's going to use CSBs in that model of "Alcazar"..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted February 3, 2014 Author Share Posted February 3, 2014 "Alcazar"........don't remind me. The loft is PERISHING at the moment, even with a 2kW heater on. I DID start with csb's on the tender, but I wasn't happy with it. I'll probably still use them, just with Slaters hornblocks instead of bearings straight on the frames. And yes, to the others above, should have stated: 7mm. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 "Alcazar"........don't remind me. ..... Alcazar. There, I just did. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Siberian Snooper Posted February 3, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 3, 2014 I would have a word with Ozzy O as he is using csb's on the 517 he is currently building. SS Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted February 3, 2014 Author Share Posted February 3, 2014 I've been following that build. Ozzy is both more talented and seems to have more patience than I. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 With "L" shaped brass, the problems are that it's very fiddly trying to mark, drill and cut brass angle so that each one is identical, or nearly so. THEN you have the added problems of positioning before soldering so that everything lines up. Actually they aren't difficult to mark and drill at all. I just used my rivet tool - just set the guide to punch a row of rivets along the brass then use those rivet dimples as the centre mark for the drill. No marking out required and all at the same distance from the edge. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Prism Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 A bit of wire soldered to the top of the hornblock avoids many of the points you raise, Jeff, but there's no such thing as a free lunch, and will require a axle or block keeperplate. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
buffalo Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 ...With handrail knobs, how does one get theholes in the ones on the frames at the correct distance in so that the wire is a straight line through those and through the ones on the bearings? If you use Gibson or similar 4mm knobs you get a choice of three depths, short, medium and long. IIRC the holes are 1.5, 2.0 and 2.5mm from the shoulders. 7mm ones are, I assume, longer. Just choose the depth to suit where you can drill the bearing. If you need something a bit longer, there are shoulderless knobs. Just put a piece of wire through them and those in the bearings to line everything up. And how does one drill the thin top edge of the bearing accurately to insert a handrail knob? How do you drill anything accurately? Adrians rivet press may be a rather elaborate method but you can just measure and mark with a centre punch or a scriber. Once drilled, you may find the tail of the knob protrudes into the axle hole in the bearing, but this can be quickly removed with a reamer. Your cutout piece of brass has some similarity to the High Level 4mm parts, but I think would be much more work than the simple handrail knob approach. To be honest, Jeff, I reckon you're looking for theoretical problems where practical ones don't really exist. Just try it, you'll find the knob approach is very easy. Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nimbus Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 A bit of wire soldered to the top of the hornblock avoids many of the points you raise, Jeff, but there's no such thing as a free lunch, and will require a axle or block keeperplate. csb-no-tag.gif If your bit of wire became a sideways 'U', i.e. soldered on one leg, then the CSB wire could thread through the legs and avoid the need for a separate keeper. The Nim. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted February 4, 2014 Author Share Posted February 4, 2014 Perhaps I just need more practice. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 I've been following that build. Ozzy is both more talented and seems to have more patience than I. Will someone get the fire brigade I've got me head stuck in the doorway. Thanks JeffP, If you look at the thread I did make a number of mistakes, I've always said that it's easy to put a kit together but the hard part is putting your own mistakes right. For marking out the holes in your L angle, Adrian's idea is sound. But if you don't have the rivet press, you can use a set of screw dividers set to XXmm and scribe a line along it working from one edge (OK the drilling is down to you). I think that I'll still use handrail knobs as the time saved over cost works for me. JeffP, for your tender why not just buy a set of etched horn guides with the horn blocks and start again, the cost of these is small (£20) against the cost of the kit (£400?). Yes it maybe nice to say I did all of that, but if it just sits and gathers dust? OzzyO. PS. do we think that "we" should start a thread about CSBs in the kit-building forum? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted February 4, 2014 Author Share Posted February 4, 2014 Thanks Ozzy, I do value your advice amongst others, who have also been nothing but supportive. As for the tender, I've got some ideas using hornblocks and bearings, but need to put them into practice....at the moment the loft is perishing, and even with a 2kW heater running, it takes an age before it's much fun to work up there. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 That's the price you pay for underfloor insulation in your loft. The best place for the insulation is on the inside of the roof if you want to use the loft year round. My old one was cold in the winter and boiling in the summer. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted February 4, 2014 Author Share Posted February 4, 2014 Mine has both: underfloor and between the rafters. It also has two Velux-type windows so I can quickly cool it on sunny days. Before that it was a sauna....I once spent half an hour turning some alloy spacers for my lad's bike, came down and had to change I was so wet. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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