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Detailing the Triang 3f


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Yes I know it's inaccurate and the tender is an abomination....but as I can't afford the new Bachmann one I have decided to see what I can do with the Triang Deeley 3f. So far I've removed the moulded handrails, fitted new safety valves, chimney, dome, smoke box door and buffers and replaced the wheels in the tender. The body was a pound from the scrap box and I've a reliable 70s jointly mechanism to go under the body. If I can find some plans I'd like to scratch build a more accurate tender at some point, but this will have to do for now. Next job is handrails and then primer to see what state it's in after hacking around.

 

Ed

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I agree it would look better with space under the boiler, but I must confess I lack the confidence to try cutting it out, I doubt I'd make a neat job of it. It's going to be in filthy BR black so I'm hoping that will help make it less obvious!

 

This is the loco with handrails fitted before priming

 

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And after priming

 

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A possible method of skirt removal that would minimise possible damage to the outer surface would be to file from the inside of the body, at first with a coarse file to remove the bulk of excess plastic and then a finer one until the remaining thin film of plastic can be pulled away. It can be left open after that or, better still, a segment of the correct diameter tube added to complete the boiler shape. As the 3F is a simple parallel boiler the latter shouldn't be too hard to find (taper boilers another matter entirely!).

 

There. I thought someone would come up with the number for the one with a flat-sided tender.

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A possible method of skirt removal that would minimise possible damage to the outer surface would be to file from the inside of the body, at first with a coarse file to remove the bulk of excess plastic and then a finer one until the remaining thin film of plastic can be pulled away...

Drilling through from the outside in each corner location - and ideally chain drilling between - provides better guidance to the cutting process. This used to be done with a piercing saw, washing up liquid as lubricant, lots of time and at least a couple of broken blades. Now a side cutter in a rotary tool will do it in seconds; working from the inside of course. Really worthwhile for the improvement in appearance if there is no mechanism to be concealed by the 'skirt', and would take this carefully worked on body a step further in appearance.

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Thanks for all the comments, I've had a look at skirt removal tonight, but the chassis block will get in the way. Might have a look for another body to try it with and find a different chassis to put under it. I've had a lot of fun with this and could always use a second...

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As promised I've numbered the loco, glazed the cab, weathered it and put some coal in the tender. I'm very pleased with it and its certainly the most extensive detailing I've yet attempted. I must confess I hate putting on transfers and wimped out on the smoke box numbers, I will see if I can find an etched number plate!

 

I would like to have another go at this one at some point and see if I can get rid of the skirt. I am also feeling confident enough now to try scratch building a body. If I can find a prototype and a suitable rtr chassis (not about to tackle making one of those yet!)

 

Edpost-18589-0-50605300-1394362777_thumb.jpgpost-18589-0-14098200-1394362786_thumb.jpg

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excellent,really looks the part, but I would still attempt a cut out under the boiler.....really put the icing on the cake.

 

Rgds.....Mike

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