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Arduino Applications and Programs


Simond
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  • RMweb Gold

Just for the convenience I'd say a fiver wouldn't be out of order - if you want dozens then you'll probably build your own, but if you want a couple to play with then it would be a lot better than getting the right bits and faffing around with stripboard.

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John,

 

I think that makes perfect sense. The 8 channel relay boards are under a tenner.

 

Best

Simon

I'm finding it so much easier to build all the electrical/electronic stuff on my workbench (AKA desk, as I keep needing to look up stuff online!), than to stretch over and crawl under layouts. When it finally gets attached to the layout it will all be working and tested. When I get onto radio control it should be even easier!

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From looking (with amazement) at people paying £20 for a Cobalt turnout motor when they could do the same job with a £2.50 servo... 

The only problem with £2.50 servos is that they tend to chatter when under power at rest.  I've been toying with the idea of shutting off power to servos using a relay after they've done the job and switching them back on when next required (under Arduino control, naturally).  Being naturally indolent, its an experiment I've yet to try, though all the bits are to hand...

 

(Yep, I've an interlocked electronic signal box in mind, using a Mega board...) 

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The only problem with £2.50 servos is that they tend to chatter when under power at rest.  I've been toying with the idea of shutting off power to servos using a relay after they've done the job and switching them back on when next required (under Arduino control, naturally).  Being naturally indolent, its an experiment I've yet to try, though all the bits are to hand...

 

(Yep, I've an interlocked electronic signal box in mind, using a Mega board...)

 

I have 10 cheap servos under my layout and none of them 'chatter' even after four years of operation. Reading other 'servo' threads it seems to be very hit and miss as to whether you experiance this problem regardless of the driver electronics. I put it done to the servo, some are good, some not so.
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so far, the board price list is looking at about £4.90 so far. My biggest outlay is the terminal blocks for ease of use....

 

for the power connections, and the output to the arduino, whats peoples view ? screw terminal blocks or simple pin header ? pin header would reduce the cost, but not as easy for people to use.....

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It is easy to solder a wire to a right-angle header pin and it is probably better able to withstand repeated soldering than the PCB track.

 

Maybe just include the header pins and the screw terminals loose and let the buyer attach whichever s/he wants.

 

...R

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Maybe just include the header pins and the screw terminals loose and let the buyer attach whichever s/he wants.

 

...R

I'm not interested in buying these boards, but agree with what Robin says. I've been buying a lot of small boards recently, and almost all come with headers already soldered. Unfortunately, they almost always stand upwards, and I'd often prefer them to be downwards, so I can solder them to a larger circuit board, or plug them into a breadboard. It's a real pain trying to remove them, and fit new ones the way I want them, and risks damaging the board. I'd much rather headers and terminal blocks were loose, so I could fit whichever suits me, or solder wires directly to the board to save space. Surplus headers and terminal blocks are very useful things to add to my parts stock, so don't get wasted.

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  • RMweb Gold

Maybe just include the header pins and the screw terminals loose and let the buyer attach whichever s/he wants.

 

...R

 

Bingo! That's the way to do it.

 

If you can't solder the pin/terminal/wire in place you probably won't be buying the board.

 

If you can solder it then you probably have your own idea of the optimum solution for your particular needs.

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The only problem with £2.50 servos is that they tend to chatter when under power at rest.  I've been toying with the idea of shutting off power to servos using a relay after they've done the job and switching them back on when next required (under Arduino control, naturally).

Anyone know how to stop servos from jumping about when they are awakened from sleep mode?

 

CFJ

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Anyone know how to stop servos from jumping about when they are awakened from sleep mode?

 

CFJ

Try connecting a 5600 ohm resistor between the servo signal wire and GND. If that does not work then post your program code - preferably a very short program that just demonstrates the problem.

 

...R

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi all.

 

I have made my first batch and fully tested them, so for those who were interested, they are £8 + postage ( which can be a simple 1st class jiffy bag ).

 

Ill contact you via pm for those who were interested.

 

I have also started to create a shop on line - www.dccinterface.com which is a work in progress.

 

I also have another design, with an arduino nano on board and headers for the ic2 interface. Not sure on price - when the boards arrive ill post a picture.

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Try connecting a 5600 ohm resistor between the servo signal wire and GND. If that does not work then post your program code - preferably a very short program that just demonstrates the problem.

 

...R

Some feedback.

Problem was two faulty servos.  Replaced with new ones and all ok.  Must have grabbed the two from my used RC bits and pieces box.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Here is a pic of the finished board - with screw terminal headers soldered on.

 

 
 

 

I'm currently in beta testing with them, and also setting up an online shop.

 

what do you think ?

Board looks great. It goes directly from the DCC bus to the Arduino then?

 

Cheers, Simon

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

I've only just found this topic and will be going through it and shamelessly copying ideas. Have learnt something already; the existence of the "Code" button in the forum editor. Sure there is more to come.

 

I have been working on an Arduino and stepper motor controlled fiddle yard traverser, which so far seems to be successful. Here is a link to the topic that describes it. The next Arduino project for the layout will be servo operated points and uncoupling magnets.

 

Mim

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  • 3 months later...

just spent a very happy couple of hours in the conservatory with rain lashing down out side   and have got the servo and led    sketch to work  next task is to construct the servo to point  linkage

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  • 9 months later...

About a month ago, I decided that I needed to get on with rebuilding the control box for Porth Dinllaen loco shed, as I had only stuck a renumbered diagram over the old Greater Windowledge Railway diagram, and wired to suit.

 

This was fine, if a little crude, for the operation of the points, but the turntable has had a separate switch panel comprising a non-latching centre off toggle switch, a button and two LEDs for too long. And the lighting of the buildings and yard lights is currently on a single channel, with no adjustment of relative brightness.

 

And the 25-way D-connector lead that couples the box to the layout uses all 25 ways.

 

The solution I’ve selected is Arduino based, using a Mega in the control panel as master, and a series of Nano as slaves. Actually the turntable has a Pro-Mini but the points and lighting will be nano controlled. Comms between the boards will be i2c.

 

My 25-way lead is now plenty big enough!

 

Haven’t finalised it yet but

 

2 wires for Arduino power

2 wires i2c

4 wires Lenz X bus

2 wires (possibly 2 pairs) programming track from the layout (the spur is relay controlled, the relay is interlocked with the crossover to ensure that the programming track is isolated when programming selected). It’s handy to have DCC and programming output on the bench for the rolling road.

 

Can’t think of anything else that I need, but maybe a DC output would be convenient. Another two pairs.

 

The panel will have a numbered mimic diagram of the track layout, with 8 levers. I shall control the turntable by means of 6 buttons arranged on a clock-face. There will be a centrally mounted Red-Green LED to indicate that the table is turning or has stopped.

 

Haven’t decided but thinking four lighting channels (loco shed, yard lights, coal stage, spare) with on-off switches, and pots on the back of the control box, accessible, but essentially preset.

 

Photos and more details to appear on my PD thread, but I’ll post code & questions on here.

 

Atb

Simon

Edited by Simond
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