Two ballast questions

[idris]

I'm probably going to get some Dapol ballast but I can't find any info on how many feet of track a 1.5kg tub will cover. Any ideas?

 

I've seen that the usual way to glue it down is to pour diluted PVA glue over it. Ok. But how do you stop points from getting gunked up / insulated if you want to glue ballast between all their sleepers?

[Ray H]

I can't help with how much the quantity will cover. I doubt I used a quarter of that amount to cover what is in effect about half of a double track 4mm circle that is roughly 7' square. It will also depend how wide you make the ballast between shoulders.

 

The easiest way to keep points clear is not to get any ballast around the tie bar and if you do, try and get it out of the way before you apply the glue. That said, small amounts can usually be flicked out of the way once the glue has set. You also need to keep the ballast below sleeper top generally and especially where the blades move. You can also put a piece of masking tape over the space between the two sleepers where the tie bar is.

 

Spray the area to be ballasted with water that contains a drop of washing up liquid using something like you use for spraying plants and then apply your diluted PVA using a pipette. This helps you control where the glue goes and lessens the chance of the ballast moving when the liquid falls on it. Don't pour the ballast on.

 

The short term result may look unsightly but it should eventually sort itself out once the PVA dries - which can take between 24 & 48 hours. Don't be tempted to touch it until dry.

 

There are a number of threads on here which explain the process better than I just have and most of the magazines have a regular article on how to do it.

[AngryMeerkat]

Can't say I've ever had points gunk up when ballasted, and I use a slightly different method to the version Ray describes -

 

I apply pinches of ballast around the points, then spread the ballast using a small (1cm) paint brush. Get the ballast level with the sleeper tops, and into areas such as under the point blades and between running rails and check rails, using the bristle end of the brush, and the sharp end if required to push ballast under blades.

 

For applying the glue, my preferred method is to use an empty bottle of scenic glue. Mix around 40% PVA, 40% water and 10% washing up liquid (cheaper brands work better than Fairy). This allows you to mix a large quantity (250ml) at a time without it setting, and the small nozzle is ideal for pouring small amounts of glue on ballast. I've found this method is my personal favourite for ballasting, no need for masking or pipettes, and the only thing I do is operate the points by hand after about an hour, just to make sure any glue doesn't bond the blades to the rails.

 

Mark

[The White Rabbit]

Re quantity:

 

Our bags of ballast are nominally 270 grams and we advise they cover approx. nine feet of OO track. (That was calculated using a GreenScene ballast spreader on a test piece and we were cautious in our estimates/claims). 

 

If particle size and weight are similar - which is a big assumption - then a 1.5kg pack may do around 50 feet. Though please bear in mind that is a fairly crude estimate. 

[Brian Indge]

There is a tread on this forum entitled "Ballasting Without Tears" started by Gordon S which is very helpful and may be of some use to you.

 

Brian

[BR60103]

I've noticed in Canadian practice that the ballast around the points mechanism is much lower -- bottom of the sleeper rather than level with or over the top. You micght look at a piece of very coarse sandpaper for that area.

Are there any holes that might give extra problems?

[idris]

There is a tread on this forum entitled "Ballasting Without Tears" started by Gordon S which is very helpful and may be of some use to you.

Thanks. Didn't find that when I searched for "ballast". Odd.

 

The area that concerns me most is around the actuator bar and the switch blade pivots - I can't see what would stop the glue getting into these areas.

And I would have expected "pouring" glue over sleepers would leave visible residue ... but I guess not, considering the number of people who do it.