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Agenoria WR 1366 Pannier for Pencarrow Bridge


2ManySpams
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Perusing photos of the class the only photos I have seen are 1369 and 1367 showing the pipe one on the other side are of the locos on the docks probably Weymouth. Something to do with the street running?

Don

 

You need to be careful with stuff like that on 1366s having done a lot of photo research of details on the class back along (and it's one reason why my faith in what might come from Heljan is not very far up the scale).  If you are doing what Spams is doing and building what looks like a top notch kit my advice is to get photos of your chosen engine at - if at all possible - your chosen period because that is the only way you will get it right in detail terms.

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If this photo was correctly described there were trees at Weymouth goods yard, though no sign of inset/buried track as in Robin's photo.

 

On the identity of the stick resting on the runningplate and cab handrail, storing shunters' poles here seems to have been common practice on these at Weymouth, see 1368 in figs 481 and 482 in Russell vol2 where the hook on the end of the pole is clearly visible. There's also an odd little hook and shackle thingy hooked onto the bottom handrail knob. This photo of 1367 shows two shunters' poles in the same place and this photo of 1369 (both from this page) shows the other side again with shunters' poles, although one almost looks like it is used to operate the bell...

 

Nick

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Yes, but the Quay line as we know it didn't go to the Nothe, and anyway the Nothe trees were a bit further away than in the b/w photo.

To my mind it matches similar views taken looking "offshore" from the quay towards the Nothe, with the tanker being one of the bunkering workings for the ferries.

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Does anyone do a sound project for these - I've been searching with no luck so far?

 

it would be nice, and eminently feasible, especially as there is a 1361 and a 1366 preserved - I guess they sound sufficiently similar to enable a common project for both?

 

best

Simon

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • RMweb Gold

Sort of ironic, given that the bell on 1369 was stolen a few months ago.

I missed this info first time around and the SDR website says it was stolen from a secure shed back in March.Still no luck in its return and if its metal thieves they deserve to be strung up by their bo###cks.Artefacts like this are precious and a nice touch in preservation. I wonder if they could cast another from an original mould from Swindon works.

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I missed this info first time around and the SDR website says it was stolen from a secure shed back in March.Still no luck in its return and if its metal thieves they deserve to be strung up by their bo###cks.Artefacts like this are precious and a nice touch in preservation. I wonder if they could cast another from an original mould from Swindon works.

 

I would prefer to use a very rusty 6 inch (150mm) nail instead of the rope.

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Belatedly caught up with this. Handled a built up Kit on their stand at Stafford then went outside for a good cry...... Absolutely superb.

Pic was taken just west of the loading stage looking over the harbour towards the Nothe as has been mentioned. Far less trees and greenery then, late 50's ?, than now, no yacht park then either.

As regards the strange pole like object wonder if its actually a point lever as the ones on the Tram were removable.

 

Stu

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Belatedly caught up with this. Handled a built up Kit on their stand at Stafford then went outside for a good cry...... Absolutely superb.Pic was taken just west of the loading stage looking over the harbour towards the Nothe as has been mentioned. Far less trees and greenery then, late 50's ?, than now, no yacht park then either.As regards the strange pole like object wonder if its actually a point lever as the ones on the Tram were removable.Stu

Stu, it was at the Stafford show last year that I bought this kit. Order placed and kit duly collected at Kettering. The complete d kit on the stand looked great, hope mine turns out half as good.

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The complete d kit on the stand looked great, hope mine turns out half as good.          

 

It did and judging by progress so far I'm sure yours will be just as good :-)  Then I'll go and have another good cry, it's the one loco that would get me into 7mm. However I'm hoping the Heljan one will be some sort of consolation prize if it's an improvement over my DJH one.

Stu

Edited by lapford34102
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I missed this info first time around and the SDR website says it was stolen from a secure shed back in March.Still no luck in its return and if its metal thieves they deserve to be strung up by their bo###cks.Artefacts like this are precious and a nice touch in preservation. I wonder if they could cast another from an original mould from Swindon works.

Me too

 

It's a damn shame when something of historic value gets weighed in for what it can raise in cash... I too hope the perpetrators get their just desserts.

 

I built a model of 1366 from the CRT kit (see GWR.org), and AFAIK, when built, she was not fitted with a bell - see the pic at http://www.greatwestern.org.uk/m_in_060_1366.htm

 

Can anyone advise when / if one was fitted?

 

Ta

Simon

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If anyone is down in the Barnstaple area tomorrow please wander over to the local one-day show on Saturday. I'll be there with our 4mm layout Treneglos and will have the as yet unstarted 1366 kit with me. If you can make it then head for the 34' long big green Southern layout and ask for Chris.

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Good to meet you at last Paul and to see your BWT in the flesh. Smashing model. Thanks for the encouragement on the 1366. Think I've run out of excuses to not start the build. Oh dear...

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Evening all,

 

I had a bit of prodding at the weekend to make a start on the kit. Damian claims to have read the instructions but I suspect he was just looking at the pictures.

post-6675-0-49231600-1406668777_thumb.jpg

 

He made some very helpful notes for me:

post-6675-0-49574100-1406668779_thumb.jpg

 

So this evening the bullet was bitten...

 

 

 

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The first fret left the box and the main chassis parts released:

post-6675-0-47650300-1406668949_thumb.jpg

 

The rivets were punched using light taps from a yomma and high-tech blunted nail. My hold and fold tool was used to form the flat chassis etch into a U-shape section until it looked like this:

post-6675-0-52336300-1406668952_thumb.jpg

 

The cross braces were released and the front two slotted in and held tight and square in my vice whilst soldered up:

post-6675-0-63924000-1406668954_thumb.jpg

 

Pause for thought.... 

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Once the rear cross members had been soldered up I loose fitted the top hat bearings and sat the chassis on the JPL jig to see how it sat.

post-6675-0-89980700-1406670171_thumb.jpg

 

post-6675-0-74698100-1406670174_thumb.jpg

 

post-6675-0-65311300-1406670177_thumb.jpg

 

This flagged up the the axle slots for the front two wheelsets will need a bit taking out of the top to allow the compensation beam to rotate.

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Next I was keen to see how the compensation beams fitted and to see if there would be any knock on effects of reversing the front two sets of bearings (ie inserting them into the compensation beams from behind. Whilst at this point, and before putting some more vertical play into the front two axles, it seemed like a good point to fix the screw to the chassis that would hold the compensation beams. Before doing this though I filed the screwhead flat (as the instructions said bits will need to fit over the top).

post-6675-0-80653600-1406670673_thumb.jpg

 

post-6675-0-64271300-1406670676_thumb.jpg

 

A look without all the jig gubbins:

post-6675-0-17029700-1406670680_thumb.jpg

 

post-6675-0-93005900-1406670682_thumb.jpg

 

And this is the point I got to tonight:

post-6675-0-41580200-1406670687_thumb.jpg

 

post-6675-0-21169300-1406670690_thumb.jpg

 

Note to my younger self 20 Aug 2016.... the etched chassis sides are too deep and the front spacer needs holes in it.

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I think the next step is to make up the connecting rods so that I can use them in the JPL chassis jig to set the locations for the bearings. 

 

So far so good....

 

(Edit: one big observation so far is that the NS is nicer to work with than brass. Heat doesn't appear to travel as far as quickly which means less smoldering fingers!)

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