Dzine Posted July 10, 2014 Share Posted July 10, 2014 Hi Folks, Went to help a modelling friend this morning. He'd just taken delivery of the loco it; stop/starts, leaps of the track at almost every point. I'm sure some of the problem is down to gauging and I guess the contact that 'hangs out in mid air' instead of rubbing against a wheel isn't helping. I'm ok helping him sort this out but wanted to know if this is typical of the unit. Regards Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Sheep Posted July 10, 2014 Share Posted July 10, 2014 I would say if there is a contact or anything else in the wrong place you need to contact the retailer, it's them who you purchased it through You could speak to the manufacturer under warranty if the above failed. I wouldn't start taking a new loco apart incase I wasn't able to resolve the issue and needed to utilise the warranty Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Ian Hargrave Posted July 11, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 11, 2014 Why start a new thread....there already is one on the BG.? Any problems can be aired there,surely? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dzine Posted July 16, 2014 Author Share Posted July 16, 2014 Hi Ian, There's a lot of other comment on the main post and I wanted to get a focused response as quickly as possible. Regards Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewartingram Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 For what it is worth, a few tips I've found out the hard way after a complete strip down of mine. Upon receipt, I tested it (DC only) on my Peco code 75 station terminus. About 18' of track, though various points including a double slip; all LiveFrog, though the frogs are not neccessarily hard-wired through switches yet so some locos will stall on them as the frogs may be dead. It performed faultlessly. I then stripped it down, basically into two chassis and the centre boiler section. In addition, tanks, boiler and cab were removed. This was to enable me to spray paint it weathered black. I found that the 2 chassis were plugged in to a pcb within the boiler; I thus separated them totally. Spraying done, and left overnight, I had to clean the wheels to enable each unit to work. Once proven ok, I started the re-assembly. As part of this, I decided to completely remove all DCC related bits (speaker, pcb, blanking plug). The wiring would be simplified to 2 identically wired chassis, basically red/black wires from pickups to motor. In addition there would be a pair of wires, from each chassis, to a piece of copperclad sleeper inside (on top of the footplate) the boiler, thus connecting both chassis in parallel. The plugs etc were to go; as the wires were then too short I substituted some of miy own wire, which was actually thicker. Looking carefully at both chassis, around the pivot point, I found there is a round pin on top, which locates/swivels in a hole on the underside of the centre casting. Retention is by magnetic force, there is a small hidden magnet, unusual method but clever! Around this pin there is a black plastic plate, with a hole for the pin, and a curved groove (I can't work out why?). This plate is held on by double sided tape and is a critical component. I prised it off; in the process losing one of the pair, but quickly made a replacement in plasticard when re-assembling. Why is this plate critical? 3 reasons. Firstly, it must be smooth (my 1st plasticard one wasn't) to give free pivotal movement. Secondly, it acts as a lid to cover the original thin wires in a groove. Thirdly, it provides balance, making the 3 main blocks of the loco sit at the correct height, and giving the loco a smooth ride on the track. I tried running mine without the plates and the chassis did not sit level on the track leading to poor pickups and derailments. Care in re-assembly is needed; take it slowly and all is well. Having now got it re-assembled, the loco purred along smoothly, but hesitated on some points. I found the pickups were only 2 each side on each chassis, so the parallel wiring definately is needed. Also they are fragile and can easily be put out of adjustment, needing careful tweaking. All is now well with mine. I hope this info is of help to some; this fine loco deserves respect. Stewart Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 7013 Posted July 16, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 16, 2014 Very informative Stewart but Like Ian I still do not see the need for another thread unless it is for problems only. Given that the majority of the problems are minor I.e. Bits falling off it hardly justifies a news thread. Your thorough description is not really about any major problems but is very useful for DC users. Any major problems should be rectified by sending the loco back to Hattons. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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