Guest 2750 Posted July 19, 2014 Share Posted July 19, 2014 I'm intending to repaint certain A4 nameplates to a darker red that suites prewar A4s. I've followed advice on old RMweb to stripping the original background colour. I intend to airbrush the new colour and then wait a day or so until properly dry. I've read a few ideas on how to bring the lettering out, wet and dry, foam sanding board and an interesting one about rubbing against photographic paper with a touch of white spirit. I'd be interested in on ideas/thoughts on the methods above, or other ideas. Many Thanks Tom Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelson Jackson Posted July 19, 2014 Share Posted July 19, 2014 I would have painted the background colour, then when it's about to dry, rub off the paint from the raised letters with a small amount of white spirit on a tissue, bear in mind I haven't tried this so it may not work. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Titan Posted July 19, 2014 Share Posted July 19, 2014 I think that you run the risk of accidentally wiping off some of the background paint. My method has been to paint, let dry thoroughly, and then rub face down on fine wet and dry on a flat surface. Whilst I have only used this on larger scale nameplates, I expect it should work on all sizes. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 2750 Posted July 19, 2014 Share Posted July 19, 2014 I think that you run the risk of accidentally wiping off some of the background paint. My method has been to paint, let dry thoroughly, and then rub face down on fine wet and dry on a flat surface. Whilst I have only used this on larger scale nameplates, I expect it should work on all sizes.Thank you, this seems to be the most common method referred to. Any particular grade of wet and dry? Brush or airbrush application? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JZ Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 Brush. And the finest grade you can lay your hands on, at least 1200. If you want a high polish finish, try to find some crocus paper/cloth, maybe from a jeweller, available in up to 12000 grade. And give it a coat of varnish when all done. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 2750 Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 Thanks Jules Out of interest, wouldn't an airbrush give a more even finish? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JZ Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 Problem with an airbrush is the need to stick the nameplate down and the remove it without bending it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JZ Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 If you cannot find any crocus paper, cardboard can be used as an alternative. The surface is slightly abrasive. Just been looking for myself and found this on ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wet-and-Dry-Sandpaper-by-Starcke-Fine-Grade-3000-Grit-P3000-x-3-Sheets-/260853251099?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item3cbc10bc1b Same seller also has 1500, 2000, 2500 and 5000 grades. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium cornelius Posted July 20, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 20, 2014 Get some nail filing boards from the chemist (or cosmetics section in a supermarket). They have a fine grit and are perfect for rubbing down nameplates - more controllable to rub the board over the plate than the plate over wet and dry paper. Ideally do this while they're still in the fret. I do this for all the nameplates I supply ready painted. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 2750 Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 Get some nail filing boards from the chemist (or cosmetics section in a supermarket). They have a fine grit and are perfect for rubbing down nameplates - more controllable to rub the board over the plate than the plate over wet and dry paper. Ideally do this while they're still in the fret. I do this for all the nameplates I supply ready painted. Perfect, I've got those on my workbench for light filing down. Many thanks Cornelius.....sadly these plates in question our out of the etch as they have been taken off a loco for painting. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 Hi Tom, I use squares of the the backing card that you get many kits attached to (in 7mm at least and is most probably artists mount board) I find that it has just the right abrasion to remove the paint without scoring the raised lettering. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 I've done quite a few. I brush painted them, (you REALLY can't see the brush strokes aftyerwards, esp if you use a decent enamel. Then wait until the paint is TOUCH dry, turn the plate over on some cartridge paper, drawing paper, and rub gently, changing areas. It removes the soft paint and leaves the resy shiny. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 2750 Posted July 20, 2014 Share Posted July 20, 2014 Thanks for all the help everyone. Here are the plates, after painting and work with the emery board, and finally on the loco herself. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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