Woodywood Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 I have just got in from the shed and Im not a happy bunny. I have started to ballast the track which I think looks O.K.but to my horror the stupid foam under lay I used has taken upon itself to rise and shrink in loads of places and the trains don't run well.Yes I know the foam was the biggest mistake I made but I cant replace it now.So Im sulking in doors hoping it goes away and after spending another £75 on coaches.This hobby can be a right pain sometimes and I might well take up knitting instead. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOARD OF TRADE Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 Sorry to hear that but if the foundations aren't right it can't be fixed,It's like using chipboard or hardboard as a base. Bite the bullet rescue the track and start over. Ask people on here for their expereiences and suggestions. It's cheap,ACTUALLY IT'S THE BEST FREE ADVICE YOU WILL EVER GET! All the best. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baby Deltic Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 I would always go for cork if I'm going to underlay track. The trouble with sheds is temperature extremes and damp. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodywood Posted August 20, 2014 Author Share Posted August 20, 2014 Well been in today and had a go at putting some led`s in the Bachmann wagon loading tower to shine down on the train as it passes underneath.To my surprise it works and Ive only just got into soldering as well. Feel a lot better now might not burn the shed after all. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwrosebury2000 Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 Yes this hobby does test you at times. I spent ages making a building including the interior only to fu* mess up the mortar when I was painting it as I didn't want to spend almost £8 on a mortar filler paint (I'm sure somebody will know what I am on about). Now I've bought the stuff and am re-cladding the building. lesson 1. don't be so tight lesson 2. just because its near the end don't rush and test the method first! glad your feeling better now Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Titan Posted August 25, 2014 Share Posted August 25, 2014 OK it might be a bit late, but the method I use is to lay shed roofing felt on top of the foam. It is secured at the edges of baseboards by nails. It has small granite chippings glued to it which is about the right size for ballast. It is waterproof, so if you glue anything to it - track, additional ballast etc, it won't soak in to and affect the foam. This means that the foam won't become stiff with glue and lose its sound damping properties, as well as not suffering any other reaction it may have. And if you are a bit slow at completing a layout like me, you can lay it across the entire baseboard and avoid the 'unfinished bare baseboard' effect. It also saves on having to glue down lots of ballast between tracks on large formations. (Although I suppose on more 'established' contemporary trackwork it would be weeds!!) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted August 25, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 25, 2014 lay shed roofing felt on top of the foam. Now that's an interesting idea. I might have a look at this before I start any work. How the **** did you get it to lay flat? However, does this felt not deteriorate over time? Maybe only when it is exposed to the elements on a shed roof? Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
APOLLO Posted August 25, 2014 Share Posted August 25, 2014 Sorry to hear of your woes. Don't give up, similar things have happened to us all There is a very interesting method of track ballasting mentioned in the article "Martins Sidings", page 528 of July 2014 Railway Modeller mag, written by Christopher Martin, which does NOT use glue. His method basically is to cut fit & place the track on the board, painting / weathering as required. Then take it apart & bit by bit fix a 2" wide length of masking tape on the underside, just overlapping the sleepers. Place the track back joining the sections with rail joiners, then fixing down with 1"masking tape each side to fix to the base (onto the overlapped 2" tape). Ballast is then applied so the chippings stick to the tacky parts between the sleepers, surplus brushed away and point blades etc cleared. Track pins are added, and the whole lot is sprayed with hairspray to hold the ballast in place. (This MAY work on your foam - try a bit first). Christopher says using this method enables him to change the layout without damaging the track / points as the tape (with ballast attached) can easily be peeled off when the track is lifted. He cuts down both sides of the track (through the 1" strip) which releases the track to lift / peel as above. As the hairspray is not too strong, ballast at the trackside is easily cut through. Worth a try, it seems a good idea to me. I haven't used it yet, but I will give it a go next time I lay / relay any track. Brit15 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Titan Posted August 25, 2014 Share Posted August 25, 2014 Just nailed it down at the edges. I would be surprised if something designed to last a few years in a much more harsh outdoor environment would show any significant deterioration when used on a layout, even over an extended time! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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