cbeagleowner Posted October 6, 2014 Share Posted October 6, 2014 Hi there, I've sprayed my track with sleeper grime and used a peco track rubber to clean the paint from the top. What I've noticed is that the track rubber as well as removing the paint from the surface of the track takes a bit from the side of the tops of the rails too. The sides of the t shaped bit at the top. Is it that. On real rtailways, and on some layouts I see on here that doesn't seem to be the case though. Anyhow, I was wondering if anyone has any advice on how this can be avoided, or if it's just one of those things when using a track rubber and code 100 track? Thank you in advance! Yours, Richard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karhedron Posted October 6, 2014 Share Posted October 6, 2014 It is hard to avoid. The track rubber is soft material and so deforms around the top of the rail when rubbed. I don't like track rubbers as the abrasive scratches the rail surfaces which can cause more dirt to accumulate in future. They also shed bits of rubber when used which is a source of dirt in its own right. I use bits of scrap mdf, board or wood damped with IPA to clean my rails. This removes most dirt and oxidation without scratching the rails. I also have rails painted with sleeper grime and it has not affected the paintwork although I do not spray the stuff directly onto the tracks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete 75C Posted October 6, 2014 Share Posted October 6, 2014 As Karhedron says, it's a little hard to avoid. Even with light pressure, the rubber will deflect a little over the rail head and clean a bit of the rail side(s) too. One thing to note is that the Peco track rubber is (in my opinion) excessively gritty and abrasive. I've long preferred to use the Hornby track rubber which does an excellent job but is nowhere near as abrasive. Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold roundhouse Posted October 6, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 6, 2014 I tend to scrape a knife blade along the tops of the rails then use very fine wet and dry . I like the inside of the top of the rail cleaned as it does make for better pick up Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alfsboy Posted October 6, 2014 Share Posted October 6, 2014 I use a flat bit of hardboard about 3 inches long cut a bit wider than the track .Onto this I glue a piece of fine and wet a dry allowing for a wrap over at each end .I use contact adhesive .It cleans and also levels the track slowly .When worn out or ripped I just replace the wet and dry .You could also glue a small knob or screw a countersunk screw through it to act as a handle .Incidently levelling peco points top and bottom on a sheet of level fine ish wet and dry before installation dont half improve their performance.You would be amazed how any high spots appear . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
66C Posted October 6, 2014 Share Posted October 6, 2014 Hi Richard For model railways in which the loco wheels pick up current from the track you should clean the inside face of the rail head as the wheel flanges pick up from that area as well as the top of the rail - particularly on curves. Try to plan your track painting so that you can clean the paint off before it has completely dried using a suitable solvent - this is much easier than using abrasive methods. Regards. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
philsandy Posted October 6, 2014 Share Posted October 6, 2014 I use a flat bit of hardboard about 3 inches long cut a bit wider than the track .Onto this I glue a piece of fine wet a dry allowing for a wrap over at each end .I use contact adhesive .It cleans and also level the track slowly .when worn out or ripped I just replace the wet and dry .You could also glue a small knob or screw a countersunk screw through it to act as a handle .Incidently levelling peco points top and bottom on a sheet of level fine ish wet and dry before installation dont half improve their performance.You would be amazed how any high spots appear . I understand not using anything abrasive to clean track as it scratches the surface allowing dirt to collect, but wont even fine wet and dry cause scratches? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alfsboy Posted October 6, 2014 Share Posted October 6, 2014 I understand not using anything abrasive to clean track as it scratches the surface allowing dirt to collect, but wont even fine wet and dry cause scratches? It seems to work ..I must stress fine wet and dry ,not hardware store assorted .I get mine from car accessory places about 1200 grit from memory . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbeagleowner Posted October 7, 2014 Author Share Posted October 7, 2014 Thank you for all your helpful advice guys. I'll give those things a try. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted October 7, 2014 Share Posted October 7, 2014 The rough side of plain hardboard alone works very well. A simple weighted drag is hauled around, once in a while the bottom is cleaned aith a wire brush. Cheap and very effective. I got this idea from Pendon, and what's good enough for Pendon.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bike2steam Posted October 7, 2014 Share Posted October 7, 2014 I don't like track rubbers as the abrasive scratches the rail surfaces which can cause more dirt to accumulate in future. Well said that man, but ANY ABRASIVE causes accumulation of dirt, and bad running, even very fine emery/w&d - keep those rail-tops polished, and smooth for good running. For track cleaning I have a piece of 3 x 4 x 5cm softwood doused in ipa, and kept sealed in a air-tight plastic container when not in use. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbeagleowner Posted October 8, 2014 Author Share Posted October 8, 2014 Thanks very much for all your help guys...I finally figured out that IPA isn't beer! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete 75C Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 Thanks very much for all your help guys...I finally figured out that IPA isn't beer! One certainly tastes better than the other ...! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
philsandy Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 The rough side of plain hardboard alone works very well. A simple weighted drag is hauled around, once in a while the bottom is cleaned aith a wire brush. Cheap and very effective. I got this idea from Pendon, and what's good enough for Pendon.. Have just tried this method on my track and it works very well. Nice smooth polished rail tops, and so much quicker than the "finger in a cloth dipped in meths" approach. I cleaned the piece of hardboard after with a light brushing using a toothbrush and soap and water and it's nice an clean and good to use again. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Campaman Posted October 10, 2014 Share Posted October 10, 2014 I use a single edged razor blade to clean the excess paint from the top of the rails, followed by a rub with hardboard soaked in IPA Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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