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Cleaning painted track


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Hi there,

 

I've sprayed my track with sleeper grime and used a peco track rubber to clean the paint from the top. What I've noticed is that the track rubber as well as removing the paint from the surface of the track takes a bit from the side of the tops of the rails too. The sides of the t shaped bit at the top. Is it that. On real rtailways, and on some layouts I see on here that doesn't seem to be the case though. Anyhow, I was wondering if anyone has any advice on how this can be avoided, or if it's just one of those things when using a track rubber and code 100 track? Thank you in advance!

 

Yours,

Richard

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It is hard to avoid. The track rubber is soft material and so deforms around the top of the rail when rubbed.

 

I don't like track rubbers as the abrasive scratches the rail surfaces which can cause more dirt to accumulate in future. They also shed bits of rubber when used which is a source of dirt in its own right.

 

I use bits of scrap mdf, board or wood damped with IPA to clean my rails. This removes most dirt and oxidation without scratching the rails. I also have rails painted with sleeper grime and it has not affected the paintwork although I do not spray the stuff directly onto the tracks.

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As Karhedron says, it's a little hard to avoid. Even with light pressure, the rubber will deflect a little over the rail head and clean a bit of the rail side(s) too. One thing to note is that the Peco track rubber is (in my opinion) excessively gritty and abrasive. I've long preferred to use the Hornby track rubber which does an excellent job but is nowhere near as abrasive. Pete.

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I use a  flat bit of hardboard  about 3 inches long cut a bit wider than the track .Onto this I glue a piece of   fine and wet a dry allowing for a wrap over at each end .I use contact adhesive .It cleans and also levels the track slowly .When worn out or ripped I just replace the wet and dry .You could also glue a small knob or screw a countersunk screw through it to act as a handle .Incidently levelling peco points top and bottom on a sheet of level  fine ish  wet and dry   before installation  dont half  improve their performance.You would be amazed how any high spots appear .

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Hi Richard

 

For model railways in which the loco wheels pick up current from the track you should clean the inside face of the rail head as the wheel flanges pick up from that area as well as the top of the rail - particularly on curves.

 

Try to plan your track painting so that you can clean the paint off before it has completely dried using a suitable solvent - this is much easier than using abrasive methods.

 

Regards.

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I use a  flat bit of hardboard  about 3 inches long cut a bit wider than the track .Onto this I glue a piece of   fine wet a dry allowing for a wrap over at each end .I use contact adhesive .It cleans and also level the track slowly .when worn out or ripped I just replace the wet and dry .You could also glue a small knob or screw a countersunk screw through it to act as a handle .Incidently levelling peco points top and bottom on a sheet of level  fine ish  wet and dry   before installation  dont half  improve their performance.You would be amazed how any high spots appear .

 

I understand not using anything abrasive to clean track as it scratches the surface allowing dirt to collect, but wont even fine wet and dry cause scratches?

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I understand not using anything abrasive to clean track as it scratches the surface allowing dirt to collect, but wont even fine wet and dry cause scratches?

It seems to work ..I must stress fine wet and dry ,not hardware store assorted .I get mine from car accessory places about 1200 grit from memory .

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I don't like track rubbers as the abrasive scratches the rail surfaces which can cause more dirt to accumulate in future.

Well said that man, but ANY ABRASIVE causes accumulation of dirt, and bad running, even very fine emery/w&d - keep those rail-tops polished, and smooth for good running. For track cleaning I have a piece of 3 x 4 x 5cm softwood doused in ipa, and kept sealed in a air-tight plastic container when not in use.

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The rough side of plain hardboard alone works very well. A simple weighted drag is hauled around, once in a while the bottom is cleaned aith a wire brush. Cheap and very effective.  I got this idea from Pendon, and what's good enough for Pendon..

 

Have just tried this method on my track and it works very well.

Nice smooth polished rail tops, and so much quicker than the "finger in a cloth dipped in meths" approach.

 

I cleaned the piece of hardboard after with a light brushing using a toothbrush and soap and water and it's nice an clean and good to use again.

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