RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 2, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 2, 2015 A bit late now but what I do is to tin the underneath of the beading, measure where the centre line is on the cab and on the beading and then form the beading to the rough shape. Then I press down on the beading ( with a small piece of wood ) and start to sweat on the beading starting at the centre line and working outwards, works for me every time. Martyn. PS, I use a piece of wood rather than a pair of pliers or tweezers, so not to cause a heat sink issue, and it also stops the smell of burnt finger tips . Thanks Martyn, a vast array of coffee stirers, bits of dowel and clothes pegs were used. Still had the smell of overly warm fingers though! The tricky bit was equalizing the two ends that support the hand rails. The second side was easier. I did go for the complicated single etch option - Jim also includes the beading in two over-long lengths that you can trim and join in-situ. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold mudmagnet Posted January 3, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 3, 2015 Good work Chris! Dare I ask about the "other loco" ??? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 3, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 3, 2015 Confession time. My back heads are glued in after painting!!! A sensible compromise Paul. The interior will be a s0d to clean, prime and paint in-situ. Good work Chris! Dare I ask about the "other loco" ??? It's still on the naughty step. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 3, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 3, 2015 The one following the Friday when the 1366 is complete........ I've got a sneaking suspicion that the O2 will be in traffic first Paul... Which Friday? Obviously the Friday that it's finished. That looks like one of the Towcester mill beers. Mike No, I'm saving them for special occasions. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 3, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 3, 2015 It might be sensible to glue in the tool box as well. I guess it will be tricky to fit the footplate assembly if that is soldered in place. It will be difficult to paint the cab thoroughly as well, especially below the toolbox. Are you going to spray paint the O2? Yes, using Halfords finest grey primer and black paint. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mark Forrest Posted January 3, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 3, 2015 I have some of their Ford Daytona Yellow if you need it to give the smoke box door and bunker rear a nice full yellow end treatment? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 (edited) Observations so far: - heat still travels quicker in brass than NS. - I still don't have asbestos fingers. - Jim's instructions are the clearest I've come across. - All the parts fit and appear appropriate to the loco I'm building. I'm quite enjoying this kit. No surprises there. (I don't think it's too much to expect to enjoy a kit - but so many seem to have been designed by sadists.) Are you planning to make the roof removeable? Chaz Edited January 3, 2015 by chaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold gwrrob Posted January 3, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 3, 2015 Halfords supply an etching primer. I have a can, but have not used it on brass yet, so cannot report on its effectiveness. Coachmann recommends Acid 8 etching primer but uses cellulose paints. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 3, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 3, 2015 I have some of their Ford Daytona Yellow if you need it to give the smoke box door and bunker rear a nice full yellow end treatment? Very helpful, I'll return the favour Mark... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 3, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 3, 2015 No surprises there. (I don't think it's too much to expect to enjoy a kit - but so many seem to have been designed by sadists.) Are you planning to make the roof removeable? Chaz Yes Chaz, I'm planning on making the roof removable. I may use an arrangement similar to the Toad brake, not sure yet. The sadist contingent don't appear to have brought Jim into line. It would be good if his accuracy and attention to detail would rub off on others... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 3, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 3, 2015 Next update, fiddly bars etc around the spectacle plates... Destructions: And the results, several burnt fingers later: Bunker rear to shape and then some major bodywork. 14 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
puddlejumper Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 Looking good and clearly a much more enjoyable build!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicktoix Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 The roof will fit perfectly and is removable. Perfect design from Jim Nick 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 Good old Jim, he even spends time to type in some tips like the BluTack. When I built a couple of his GWR bogie bolsters, he had even etched some Railway warning signs in what could of been just scrap etch, top man. Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 3, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 3, 2015 And this is where I got to before leaving to go to the cinema at 5.30. Going together well. Destructions for that stage: 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold gwrrob Posted January 3, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 3, 2015 What's that blue liquid. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 3, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 3, 2015 What's that blue liquid. It's what I drink these days. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold gwrrob Posted January 3, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 3, 2015 It's what I drink these days. Now I do know that's just not true. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
daifly Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 I suspect that it's this Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 3, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 3, 2015 Now I do know that's just not true.It's actually water based 'safety' flux. Works well but doesn't appear to attack metal and leave nasties behind like the Carrs acid fluxes. Works for me. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 3, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 3, 2015 I suspect that it's this Yup, that's it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 4, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 4, 2015 The cab interior had to be fitted in the end. Once the cab sides and ends were in place it was impossible to drop the interior into place. The various cab returns saw to that. So I had to unsolder the cab front sheet, fix the interior and then 're-fix the cab front sheet. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeHemmings Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 I suppose when you have built one loco then the second one is a dodle, that's looking as its going together very well. Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 I suppose when you have built one loco then the second one is a dodle, that's looking as its going together very well. Mike Not necessarily so. My first was a Connoisseur J50, which went well followed by a Wallsall Models J52 which was pretty dreadful. I suspect the O2 is just a very much better kit than the Agenoria 1366 and shows it up. Yes, Chris? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeHemmings Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 Have you built more than 2 models if so how did you fair with them. Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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