RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 4, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 4, 2015 Not necessarily so. My first was a Connoisseur J50, which went well followed by a Wallsall Models J52 which was pretty dreadful. I suspect the O2 is just a very much better kit than the Agenoria 1366 and shows it up. Yes, Chris? Chalk and cheese so far Chaz. It shows that there's no real reason for some kits to be so bad. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 Have you built more than 2 models if so how did you fair with them. Mike If you are asking me Mike have a look at my Dock Green topic for info. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/58132-dock-green/ If you are mainly interested in etched brass locos I have built several and have a couple on the go... I wont say more here as this is not my topic.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 4, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 4, 2015 And we're now on page 6. Again some top tips in the instructions from Jim and half-etch joints to help align the parts. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 4, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 4, 2015 Well, having had comments regarding the size of the iron I was using, I thought I'd give my original 25w Antex a go. Not impressed. Two smallish parts to join. Brass got warm but the solder never really got to its nice fluid state. Not a good join and it reminded me why I bought the bigger iron. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mark Forrest Posted January 4, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 4, 2015 Won't that iron stand be acting as a heat sink and cooling your tip? I've been using a 25w Antex for the lever frame I've been soldering together and it has been up to the job (which is 0.4mm nickel silver). My 25w has worked much better since I replaced its old tip. That said I do have a 40w Antex and a RSU to call upon when I need them. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 4, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 4, 2015 Whilst the big iron was cold I took the opportunity to replace the bit. This one has lasted 12 months and developed a crack over the weekend. It opened during this afternoon's work and started smoking. Thankfully I had a spare. Is it a coincidence that I used some Carrs yellow flux last week? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 4, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 4, 2015 Won't that iron stand be acting as a heat sink and cooling your tip? I've been using a 25w Antex for the lever frame I've been soldering together and it has been up to the job (which is 0.4mm nickel silver). My 25w has worked much better since I replaced its old tip. That said I do have a 40w Antex and a RSU to call upon when I need them. Tip in the 25w is almost new. The iron was held away from the stand and the job for about 15s before making a start. Should have been ok. Returning to the big iron with fresh tip and the job was done in seconds. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 4, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 4, 2015 Some progress shots... Ends and join on the boiler. Placed for fit. Smokebox former placed. Smokebox wrapper - probably needs a little more work on the fit... 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 Some progress shots... Ends and join on the boiler. rps20150104_184709.jpg Placed for fit. rps20150104_184831.jpg Smokebox former placed. rps20150104_184855.jpg Smokebox wrapper - probably needs a little more work on the fit... rps20150104_184937.jpg This is so much nicer than the last one.. .... at least you weren't put off 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 4, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 4, 2015 I think I'm going to make the boiler and smokebox as a sub-assembly and work on a method of bolting it to the rest of the body. Should help with the final clean, paint and lining. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 4, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 4, 2015 This is so much nicer than the last one...... at least you weren't put off One has been a chore and the other a joy. There is a flip side though... I learnt loads working on the Agenoria kit. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 4, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 4, 2015 That was fun. Still lots to learn on how to curve brass... And having got this far I couldn't resist a trial placement of the main boiler fittings. Starting to look like an O2. 16 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted January 4, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 4, 2015 This is so much nicer than the last one.. .... at least you weren't put off A lot less swearing that's for sure... Looking the part Chris. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 4, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 4, 2015 A lot less swearing that's for sure... Looking the part Chris. The splasher/sandboxes look fun - so there is potential for some language there. The frets are starting to look quite empty in places. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold gwrrob Posted January 4, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 4, 2015 It sounds like you're etching to finish it.First class work Sir.How will you attach the castings out of interest.Low melt solder ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 4, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 4, 2015 It sounds like you're etching to finish it.First class work Sir.How will you attach the castings out of interest.Low melt solder ? Low melt solder Rob. I'll be replacing the chimney with a brass one from Laurie Griffen. Nothing wrong with Jim's whitemetal one but brass is more robust. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted January 5, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 5, 2015 In and out quick with a big iron is working well for you. Progress seems quite rapid. Making the model of some key assemblies can be a great help with painting especially where lining is involved. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike47j Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 Mine's just about done. I used a pair of Slaters hornblocks on the rear drivers, with a branchlines motor and gearbox. Also removed the spring from the rear bogie. Some extra lead in the boiler over the drivers. Like this, I think it will cope better with our club layout which has some big steps and gaps in the track. The Slaters 5/32 bushes for the bogie are 5mm, so the ones in the kit need drilling out to accept them, unless I've got the wrong ones. According to Slaters they are going to pack the bushes with the wheels. Altogether it was a joy to build, and the first kit I've not had to put aside while I think of a solution to a problem. Just got to wait for some warm weather to paint it, and then work out how to line it. Mike 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 Low melt solder Rob. I'll be replacing the chimney with a brass one from Laurie Griffen. Nothing wrong with Jim's whitemetal one but brass is more robust. Most of my kit-built locos have white-metal chimneys and domes. I have never damaged one yet. Unless you are planning to hurl your model about (you're not - are you? ) Jim's white metal fittings should be fine. it's up to you of course and I imagine Laurie Griffin's brass fittings will be excellent. I would advise you to replace the buffers and brake hoses with brass however. Chaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 6, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 6, 2015 Below are the destructions for the stage I finished on Sunday. And this is the last page before Jim recommends putting the body to one side to complete the chassis. I'll be following Jim's suggestion. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 6, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 6, 2015 Credit should also go in Jim's direction for providing annotated images of each fret. The numbers even tally with the pieces in the step by step instructions. Makes life easy for the novice. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
puddlejumper Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 And you can get all his instructions on his website..........a big well done to Jim methinks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted January 6, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 6, 2015 I agree with Don. You need to come up with a 'cunning plan' to make the boiler / smoke box assembly fixed by a couple of screws to the running plate and cab. The obvious places ( to me at any rate!) are underneath the smoke box to the running plate and a fixing at the rear of the fire box to the front spectacle plate, which would be hidden by the backhead. Quite so, sub-assemblies are always useful in a big tank engine. Theres an example on my Narrow Gauge workbench thread here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/35253-dlts-ng-workbench-upgrading-some-old-wagons/ towards the bottom of the first page. The rear end of the "half-boiler" sits on supports attached to the tanks and slides into the cutout in the cab front; and is secured by a screw through the footplate into the smokebox. I think on the O2 the boiler butts up against the cab front? A couple of brass pins soldered to the inside of the boiler could poke through holes in the cab front to prevent the boiler lifting? If the piano lid is fixed to the footplate the smokebox could drop in behind it, thus holding it longitudinally, and one screw to hold it down. And Voila! one removable boiler assembly! Not sure if I've explained that very clearly! Dave. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 6, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 6, 2015 Quite so, sub-assemblies are always useful in a big tank engine. Theres an example on my Narrow Gauge workbench thread here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/35253-dlts-ng-workbench-upgrading-some-old-wagons/ towards the bottom of the first page. The rear end of the "half-boiler" sits on supports attached to the tanks and slides into the cutout in the cab front; and is secured by a screw through the footplate into the smokebox. I think on the O2 the boiler butts up against the cab front? A couple of brass pins soldered to the inside of the boiler could poke through holes in the cab front to prevent the boiler lifting? If the piano lid is fixed to the footplate the smokebox could drop in behind it, thus holding it longitudinally, and one screw to hold it down. And Voila! one removable boiler assembly! Not sure if I've explained that very clearly! Dave. Yup, that was the sort of thing I was thinking about. The only complication is the the top of the tank fronts curve in over the boiler. This will prevent the boiler lifting upwards so it will have to come out forwards. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 6, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 6, 2015 Tonight's little bit of progress, more of my absolute favourite curve forming. One side done, the second will be quicker. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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