sir douglas Posted March 7, 2015 Author Share Posted March 7, 2015 Currently having mechanical issues with J. Aspdin. I took it down to clubhouse a week or 2 ago for some running in on the test track, not happy. The main gear was running loose on the axle and the con rods were falling off because the central screw was coming loosed and the end crank pins aren't long enough to stay in the holes with the side play of the wheels. to fix the gear i came up with a wire clip that is soldered to the axle and hooks into a hole drilled into the side of the gear. I haven't tried it out yet to see if the solder will hold on the steel axle under the load of the loco. And to resolve the con rod problem i will purchase OO screw in crank pins at york show (example product from Roxey website). http://www.roxeymouldings.co.uk/product/845/deluxe-crankpins-for-markits-and-romford-wheels-by-markits/ Also, since trying out a new photo position in my room with better light i am finally able to take a non blurry photo of the locos underside. Yet again forgotten to take a photo during the construction of something, so here is a photo of the bogie carraige almost complete body work painted with 2 coats of humbrol crimson and ready for door handles, the inside still needs seats and painting, the frame has a coat of tamiya flat black, which now thinking was a bit stupid as i still need to put bolt head detail on. ive done what i can with the detail additions to the G&SWR wagons, photos will come when i can get descent quality photos Regards, Sam. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted April 6, 2015 Author Share Posted April 6, 2015 hi, one bug at the moment, every year at the york show there's always a few people that do OO/EM crank pin upgrades, but this year didn't see any and i wanted some for J. Aspdin,. so i'll either have to get them online or think about a scratch built solution. something i did see that i got was a peco O gauge 12 ton wagon chassis and while i was waiting to be served i noticed the associated wheels so took them as well, but when i got home I realised that i'd got the 3 hole wheel patten which i very dislike. The solution, swap the wheels with the 6 comp carriage peco spoked pattern, and covering up the 3 hole pattern with styrene disks scored to make wooden pattern wheels much more suitable for a carriage. the modified wheels now under the carriage the peco chassis kit parts. the eventual width of the body has been decided, so i needed to cut back the four T section brackets underneath each side of the floor a rolling chassis the buffer beams were painted before putting the buffers and hooks in and then that onto the wagon. My only addition to the wagon is the central bake gear rod Ive decided that ill have a go at a goods van. I really like the look of the Midland vans with the cross framework regards, Sam. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 Is that a Guard's Van? Goods vehicles didn't usually have red bufferbeams. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted April 7, 2015 Author Share Posted April 7, 2015 i decided that i needed to paint the buffer beams before fitting to the wagon and got the red out without thinking about it, but now its done im not bothered Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted April 8, 2015 Author Share Posted April 8, 2015 Hi, worked out the van body framing and all the measurements so started cutting. The construction was in 2 layers with the inner layer being structural and have the planking, and the outer layer being the frame. Below shows the parts laid out with the 2 layers of one end together as an example. and all put together onto the chassis. next will be sanding down the frame work to remove the ridges around the edges from cutting. Regards, Sam. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted April 12, 2015 Author Share Posted April 12, 2015 (edited) Hi, While i was doing the iron work for the van last Friday , it got me thinking about the door latches, because ive no idea and what would be my options based on prototype latches, that night down at the clubhouse it was suggested to me that i look through the R.J. Essery wagon books. In the Midland Wagons volume one, are a range of wagons the midland built for the LT&SR, look simple and easy to build, some were hinged and some weren't, i chose not hinged, so after i got back from the Upton show i got straight on with making and fitting them. here shows the door latches in place, the rest of the iron have already had their black coat of paint and after final grey coat I can now fit the latch securing pins into their holes and the attach the other end of the pin's chain to a track pin into holes drilled into the door to the left of the latch, refit the buffers, add the lead into the body to bring it up to the recommended minimum wagon weight of 125 grams and put a roof on. Regards, sam. Edited October 6, 2015 by sir douglas 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted April 16, 2015 Author Share Posted April 16, 2015 (edited) Hi, I got my Narrow planet plates a few months ago but didn't get round to photographing them, until yesterday. J.Aspdin.Now got all the green paintwork on, a crew painted and fitted, and the name & works plates on. The body work has now just the smokebox dart, cab roof and bunker coal to do On the chassis,the idea to solder a clip to the axle which inserted into the gear didn't work because steel doesn't solder well, so next time I'm down at the club ill see if i can use the pillar to put a hole in the axle which the clip can slot into. i still need to sort out the con rods as well. The bogie 6 comp. the benches are in and the compartment interiors have been painted the freelance goods van is now finished And now (drum roll please) the name of the main project at the moment its a bit silent grey project? reference to the silent grey ironclad war ship "Thunderchild" from War of the worlds Regards, Sam. Edited April 16, 2015 by sir douglas 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted October 6, 2015 Author Share Posted October 6, 2015 (edited) hi, its been a while but recently i decided that i would get back into working on J Aspdin to get it running in time for it being able to have a sneaky run or two on Green Ayre in november. My previous attempt at the pick ups didnt work and i lost interest in having to replacing them for what is now about 7 months, but last week the old pick ups got taken out. this i started by soldering with 2 lenghts of copper clad sleeper that screw onto the underneath of the chassis, this included making new chassis stretchers to screw the copper clad into i did put the contact wires in but they were quite short so you either set them too loose against the wheel and you don't get full contact or you set them too tight against the wheel and act as a brake. this was told to me last night down b at the club. I took it down to put it on the test track. not so surprisingly it didn't move, using 2 lengths of wire and croc clips connected to the track and the other ends directly on the motor, it actually ran okay which was a brilliant surprise for me, so today it unsoldered the short wires from the plates which shows the wireless plates in the pic above. another bit of wisdom was that i should have longer wires for that spring to hold it against the back of the wheels,shown above with the four new holes drilled nearer to the middle. so now i just need to solder on four new longer wires and i'll actually have a running o gauge loco for the first time. Regards, Sam. Edited February 19, 2023 by sir douglas 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted October 7, 2015 Share Posted October 7, 2015 I noticed in the backgrounds of some pictures that you are working from drawings. Are these of a particular prototype or your own sketches? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted October 7, 2015 Author Share Posted October 7, 2015 Hi Martin, all the drawings shown are my own, J Aspdin's measurements were estimated from photos online of the Padarn Hunslets and the bogie carriage drawing is completely fictitious. it was a right head ache working out the carraige measurements because i started by working out one window and one door and from that you can work out one compartment and then the whole carriage length, a lot of cumulative frequancy was involved initial plan for J aspdin o gauge drawing J Aspdin by Sam, on Flickr initial plan for the carriage, version one bottom and version two middle and top o gauge drawing carriage by Sam, on Flickr and the detail working out the compartments o gauge drawing carriage by Sam, on Flickr Sam. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted October 7, 2015 Share Posted October 7, 2015 Would it really annoy you to know that it didn't take me long to find this? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted October 7, 2015 Author Share Posted October 7, 2015 its from that Dave Mills site doing it in 16mm isnt it, yeah ive seen that site when i was doing research for my build back in december, but i wanted to have my own drawing that i could build from Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted October 7, 2015 Share Posted October 7, 2015 Interesting and ingenious work - I am enjoying watching it all come together! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted October 7, 2015 Author Share Posted October 7, 2015 hi bottlewasher, thanks for the interest Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted October 9, 2015 Author Share Posted October 9, 2015 the new picks ups are now soldered in, it does work but a bit stuttery and needs a nudge to get it started, but it works J Aspdin (36) by Sam, on Flickr 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted October 9, 2015 Share Posted October 9, 2015 the new picks ups are now soldered in, it does work but a bit stuttery and needs a nudge to get it started, but it works J Aspdin (36) by Sam, on Flickr Grubby wheel rims may be the cause? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted October 9, 2015 Share Posted October 9, 2015 Have you tried rubbing the backs of the wheels with a 9B pencil? Helps lubricate the surface and it is conductive. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted October 9, 2015 Share Posted October 9, 2015 Have you tried rubbing the backs of the wheels with a 9B pencil? Helps lubricate the surface and it is conductive. After a clean up the treads and track too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted October 10, 2015 Share Posted October 10, 2015 If those suggestions do not cure the problem, I would have another look at the pickups. Those wires look as if they could be rather stiff to me; I would put a 'pig tail' (ie a turn to form a loop, or even two turns) in each one to increase its effective length (ie reduce the spring rate) to lighten the force on the wheel but to maintain it over a reasonable travel (side to side), so its adjustment is far less critical. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted October 10, 2015 Author Share Posted October 10, 2015 hi, the pick ups are fine now, ive rubbed some graphite onto the backs of the wheels as suggested and i can remember from some time ago reading about using it as a lubicant in the gearbox so some has been put in there as well, Also ive cleaned up the dirty treads as well. It runs a bit better now, but now something else has come up that need attention but im not exactly sure what yet 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted October 14, 2015 Author Share Posted October 14, 2015 (edited) (note: Thread title renamed) Hi, just got myself a little jackpot, about 36 foot of o gauge rail for free, ive been helping a friend with his layout this week and i saw lengths of rail in the bin and he said it was okay to take them. They willl need a lot of cleaning to be usable but its a bargain I couldnt ignore. Also, forgot to mention that a few weeks ago I bought one of Jamie's North British brake third carriage kits. this will be a suitable addition to my stock when completed in a slightly rundown appearance for my industrial / light railway theme Regards, Sam. Edited October 14, 2015 by sir douglas 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted October 22, 2015 Author Share Posted October 22, 2015 (edited) while i was looking at my o gauge drawing of a standard gauge single fairlie, i thought more about actually making it, so an online purchase was made of a OO castle class chassis castle to fairlie bogie by Sam, on Flickr The intention is to cut off the un needed ends of the chassis and cut it down the middle length wise, put in new frame stretchers and put the wheels onto new longer axles castle to fairlie bogie by Sam, on Flickr castle to fairlie bogie by Sam, on Flickr now comes the tricky part, putting the chasiss back together to the right width, ive already worked out what that will be but to do it so the chassis is parallel and square is another thing Edited October 22, 2015 by sir douglas Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 Put long metal rods through the axle slots. Assuming that the rods are straight and a tight fit, it will show up any misalignment for you. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted October 24, 2015 Share Posted October 24, 2015 Another method is to find a clear part of the chassis block and use a drill press to put holds all the way through. Then you can insert metal rods which will keep the blocks square and then glue in your spacer material (a picture would be worth 1,000 words here, but I don't have the skill to draw one on the computer for you!) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted October 24, 2015 Author Share Posted October 24, 2015 ive glued the chassis together now with new styrene stretchers, photos in due course Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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