Tomsontour Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 Morning one and all, for the first time ever I had a go at kit building a loco, the model in question a DJH U Boat with the 3500 gallon tender. Now I've never touched a soldering iron before yesterday, very steep learning curve, and massively enjoying it! So far I have started on the tender body, and the tender chassis, and I must admit soldering wasn't as horrific as I imagined, and as I said really enjoying it plan for tonight while Kate watches that wonderful documentary on BBC1 tonight (yup eastenders) will give me the chance to hopefully solder but the chassis and add the brake set up on to the tender Let me know what you think guys, it's far from perfect but I'm learning so much from it ! All the best Matt Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norwenglish Posted November 8, 2014 Share Posted November 8, 2014 As someone who wants to, but has never done an etched kit before, I shall be following this thread with lots of interest! Keep up the good work! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethashenden Posted November 8, 2014 Share Posted November 8, 2014 What is a U boat in this case? I'm aware of submarines and General Electrics 'Universal' series of diesel locomotives, but what is this one? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lady_Ava_Hay Posted November 8, 2014 Share Posted November 8, 2014 What is a U boat in this case? I'm aware of submarines and General Electrics 'Universal' series of diesel locomotives, but what is this one? it is a Southern U class. Maunsell design. I can remember them being used on freight and passenger duties and one or two worked to the end of steam. I think it got the 'handle' U Boat from the Mid Hants Railway. These are pics I took of it some years back Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulleidnutter Posted November 8, 2014 Share Posted November 8, 2014 Be wary of design details between 1638 on the Bluebell and 31806 (now on the Swanage). 31806 is a River rebuild with the running plate set lower with larger splashers. 1638 is a standard built U boat. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ady77014 Posted November 8, 2014 Share Posted November 8, 2014 And 31806 has a BR modified front frame too... Just to confuse matters. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted November 8, 2014 Share Posted November 8, 2014 Be wary of design details between 1638 on the Bluebell and 31806 (now on the Swanage). 31806 is a River rebuild with the running plate set lower with larger splashers. 1638 is a standard built U boat. And 31806 has a BR modified front frame too... Just to confuse matters. Mmmm...and Rebuilt Rivers had wider footplates - six inches wider - than new-build "U"s. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomsontour Posted November 8, 2014 Author Share Posted November 8, 2014 Cheers for the replys guys for the poster who was thinking about having a go, do it bud, if I can solder anyone can My original plan was to do 31806 after having a footplate ride on her at swanage but seeing as this kit would require a lot of work to do so, I'm going to stick with one of the locos that is represented in the kit, still a bit more research to be done on which loco in particular I will be doing. Last night I got the chassis for the tender all soldered up, now I have my first question, you all knew it was bound to happen soon! Okay I have to solder on nuts to part of the spacers, what's the best way of making these line up, I used a cocktail stick but they aren't what you'd call bob on, the screws go in but are a bit of a struggle. Any advice on how you guys do it? Still enjoying it though, might have a new pic later on Many thanks again, Matt Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted November 8, 2014 Share Posted November 8, 2014 ....My original plan was to do 31806 after having a footplate ride on her at swanage but seeing as this kit would require a lot of work to do.... For 31806 and any of her wider sisters, you'd need to build a hybrid, using a mixture of DJH and parts from the SEF "River" tank kit. I think the chassis was five inches longer as well, but all at the rear. To this day, I've never seen one built in 4mm scale. Loads of "N"s, new-build "U"s, and a few N1s and U1s, but never a "rebuilt River". Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PenrithBeacon Posted November 8, 2014 Share Posted November 8, 2014 The Swanage example also has Wakefield lubricators and some pretty untidy plumbing. Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomsontour Posted November 8, 2014 Author Share Posted November 8, 2014 Sorry guys no more work done to the model this evening, too knackered from pounding the rails at work. As I said I would love to do 31806, but maybe this can wait until my modelling skills have improved as to this model, I know I have quite a narrow window in which to model on, some research will need to be done, me thinks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomsontour Posted November 9, 2014 Author Share Posted November 9, 2014 Please excuse the phone pic but brake hangers have been folded ready for soldering Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 Okay I have to solder on nuts to part of the spacers, what's the best way of making these line up, I used a cocktail stick but they aren't what you'd call bob on, the screws go in but are a bit of a struggle. Any advice on how you guys do it? Your method obviously works. I tend to use the screw to hold the bolt down, but before that I put a small amount of oil on the threads. Tighten it down and solder the nut. All being well, you haven't soldered everything solid - been there, done that, but only after forgetting the oil. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomsontour Posted November 9, 2014 Author Share Posted November 9, 2014 I shall keep that oil method in mind, I did try using a bolt to get it straight and true, needless to say I now have a nut soldered to the bolt lol, learning all the time I go! Brake hangers have now been soldered to the chassis, coming together slowly, hope to get a bit more done tomorrow footsteps hopefully going on tomorrow Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomsontour Posted November 10, 2014 Author Share Posted November 10, 2014 So a little bit of progress with the U boat today, what I've learnt so far today, steps are and absolute pain in the arse to solder, a job you need about three hands for! Top plate hadn't been soldered in place yet, few more bit to do before his happens, jobs for the rest of the day get the rest of the steps in, and maybe the buffer beam in place. Placed it along side a Bachmann RTR N class, pretty happy with it so far really am enjoying myself making this model oh and surprise surprise, soldering iron sodding hurt when they come in contact with fingers!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 Fortunately most of us have reflexes that ensure the iron doesn't do any lasting damage. I've sometimes had to grit my teeth in order to make a joint where my fingers are a bit too close to the iron. All part of the game. I've done far more damage to myself with knives. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelson Jackson Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 Following with great interest as I really want to start building locomotives but don't know where to start Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 Nelson, and Matt , the advice I always give is to have a look for Iain Rice's books on chassis construction and loco building. Iain's book on chassis construction has a comprehensive section on soldering and advice on equipment and dodges. These are published by Wild Swan and, admittedly are somewhat dated. They are a good read however. http://britishrailwaybooks.co.uk/books/wildswanmodelling.php The books are out of print but you may find copies second hand. Another thing to try and get is Right Track 1 & 2 DVDs (Activity Media) on loco kit construction by Tony Wright. http://www.model-railway-dvd.co.uk/right_track1.php John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomsontour Posted November 10, 2014 Author Share Posted November 10, 2014 Fortunately most of us have reflexes that ensure the iron doesn't do any lasting damage. I've sometimes had to grit my teeth in order to make a joint where my fingers are a bit too close to the iron. All part of the game. I've done far more damage to myself with knives. John Agreed on this one bud, smaller bits can be a bit sore but I'm learning all the time and sometimes things have to hurt to learn lol, And I'd fully endorse a DJH for a first go, start with a plastic wagon kit and move on up from there if I can do it buddy anyone can All steps have been soldered on to the tender, just the axle boxes, handrails, and crew boxes to fit to the tender, and it'll be pretty much finished, then it'll be on to the loco itself and squeaky bum time!! All the best Matt Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomsontour Posted November 11, 2014 Author Share Posted November 11, 2014 Bit more progress this morning, steps all in, as is the buffer beam, thinking of adding in sprung buffers, as they would look a bit finer then the white metal castings. Axle boxes in too, it's amazing how much they can change the appearance of the model All that's left to do is add the handrails in, solder in the top plate as this is just currently placed in rather then soldered, and add the brake rigging, plus one or two more bits to the front of the tender. But she's getting there pretty pleased with it so far Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
burgundy Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 Matt Singed fingers are all part of the joy of soldering. However, one of the real tricks of soldering is to discover all the devious ways to hold the work in place, without having your fingers in direct contact with metal that is rapidly getting warm. Wooden cocktail sticks and coffee stirrers have a multitude of uses. Good luck with the project Best wishesEric Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sej Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 Hi Matt, I agree with Eric, wood is good, I screw half clothes pegs down to my formica soldering surface as clamps. They hold things nice and steady and are easy and cheap to replace when they get a bit charred. I also agree about the burnt fingers. If you watch Tony Wright's excellent videos you can see molten solder actually touch his fingers. Ouch! Not necessarily recommended... Cheers Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted November 11, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 11, 2014 Hi Matt, I built a DJH U-Class a while ago, fully written up on my Workbench thread here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/2359-dlts-southern-locos-adams-a12-jubilee/page-12 In the end we only used the DJH loco body, and fitted it to the Southeastern Finecast loco chassis and a spare Hornby tender (cos at the time DJH didnt have the tender we wanted) It was a bit of a labour of love, but I was very pleased with the result. Hope this helps, Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 There's no law that says you have to build the kit out of the box. If you're making a model of the subject, there are sometimes better choices in the after market for various parts. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomsontour Posted November 11, 2014 Author Share Posted November 11, 2014 Eric and Simon, some very helpful hints there guys thank you no burnt fingers today, although the steps on the back of the tender were certainly fiddly to fit and needed about three hands to do, but got them on there okay And Dave that's truly stunning mate, a lot of work put in but well worth it for the result have bookmarked it so I can go bank for reference no doubt I'll be asking you plenty of questions in due course!! All the best Matt Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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