RMweb Gold rka Posted November 20, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 20, 2014 I've bought a couple of these already made up and they have Hornby wheels fitted in brass bearings, but they push the axleboxes out so both are splayed. a Google search has proved inconclusive so I'm not sure where to go Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baby Deltic Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 You can use a hot soldering iron to melt the bearings into the axle boxes. The best way would be to fit the soldering iron in one of those cheap drill presses for hobby drills, so it pushes the bearing in square rather than on the p15s. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baby Deltic Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 Alternatively you could use a drill press with the depth set just right to allow for the bearing depth without drilling right through the axle box. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold rka Posted November 20, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 20, 2014 Cheers mate will try the first method i think Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 I drill mine out with a pin vice 2mm (the axleguard can be gently flexed enough to do this square) and then countersink with an 1/8" drill so that the bush sits flush (the moulded boss on the back needs to be filed flat and I thin the edges of the W-irons slightly). Alternatively shorter axles might be a solution. Be careful if you choose the soldering iron solution, as it is easy to shift the bearing slightly sideways, resulting in crabwise motion and/or rocking of the underframe. Neither of which is desirable, of course. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Controller Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 A 'Truck Tuner' is a useful tool in these circumstances as well:- http://www.micromark.com/ho-truck-tuner,8241.htmlThey're very useful for cleaning out paint from bearings as well, if you didn't mask properly. When I've got the wheel-set running satisfactorily, I sometimes use some graphite from a soft pencil to dry-lubricate the bearings as well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold rka Posted November 22, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 22, 2014 Thank you again might have to get a truck tuner wizard models stock them and are ar Wakefield next week Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
a@y Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 You'll need to make sure the axles are parallel. If you measure the distance between the centres of the axleboxes, you will probably find that they are different. You can make these the same by a cut and file (to reduce one side) or a cut and insert a sliver of plastic (to make one side longer) Otherwise you'll get a built-in tendency for the wagon to curve one way, which isn't brilliant for running. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 I've not had this problem with Airfix kits others (especially whitemetal) yes. They are often moulded/cast slightly asymmetrical, which, with two identical parts, end up running crabwise. It can be bodged mitigated by scraping the bearing hole oval with a knife blade and then mounting the bearing off centre. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold rka Posted November 23, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 23, 2014 Had a look at the bought ones tonight and i managed to get the bearings out as they looked a trifle small and subsituted some romford ones, and now they run like a dream Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 Romford bearings are deeper than other makes. The standard is 1mm from the outer face of the flange (for 26mm pinpoint axles to fit a 24mm etched W-iron pair). Cross-section of Romford here (page 28) http://www.markits.com/MARKITS_Price_Guide_2013_09.pdf Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold rka Posted November 24, 2014 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 24, 2014 I did drill the axleboxe out and used plenty of polycement to enable me to bed them in correctly Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted November 24, 2014 Share Posted November 24, 2014 I find the use of shouldered (or is it waisted) bearings very useful. As is filing the backs flush on the mouldings Sometimes with whitemetal kits I remove the W irons saving the axleboxes and use etched W irons Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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