Jump to content
 

Heljan class 17


M. Jones
 Share

Recommended Posts

Shops such as Hatton's and Modelfair are showing the next batch as available for pre-order (BR green with SYP is Heljan code 1707). However, the Heljan "Products To Come" list under the "About Us" tab doesn't list these, only 1700-1706 which were all the initial releases.

 

So, the shops say they are still to come but Heljan gives no info.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Only speculation, but if the new chassis arrive in November then it is likely the new class 17 will follow shortly afterwards. If they are making replacement chassis, and I'm waiting for 2, then it would be sensible to make them as apart of a larger run for the new versions.

 

Here's hoping that I am right because they will go nicely with the new Leith General Warehousing grain vans which will be along in a few months.

 

Roddy

Link to post
Share on other sites

I bet Heljan would rather forget about the Class 17!

 

They still owe a bunch of folks new chassis, I expect it will be awhile before we see more. I'm ready for those BTHs...

 

I would imagine the forthcoming class 14 & 15 will possibly share the same motor as the revised class 17's, all being of a vaguely similar narrow bonnet type design?

 

Perhaps once the outstanding motor issue for the Claytons has been resolved Heljan will start making proper noises about the long awaited Teddy Bears & BTH's........neither of which are on my shopping list (at present anyway!)

Link to post
Share on other sites

I understand that Harburn Hobbies is very likely to be doing a re-run of the Leith General Warehousing wagons but with british rail numbering so that they match the period when the class 17s were about. Plans are still at an early stage but Bob has found details of the markings that were applied. It will presumably be the Bachmann salt wagon which will be used again rather than a proper grain wagon but it is similar.

 

Roddy

Link to post
Share on other sites

I would imagine the forthcoming class 14 & 15 will possibly share the same motor as the revised class 17's, all being of a vaguely similar narrow bonnet type design?

 

I sure hope they don't share the same motor!

 

There should be plenty of room in the Class 15 body for a larger flat can motor. I managed to get a husky Athearn motor in my Class 17...

Link to post
Share on other sites

What motor did you use Dave?

 

Dave.

 

Max,

 

Sorry to be so slow getting back but I've been away from my computer for a couple of days. I used a Mashima 1224. The original cogged very badly so it had to go even though it did not go crispy on me. I also ran in the gears with some toothpaste before putting everything back together. To fit the 1224 you need to remove the rubber cushions from the original holder or it won't fit. ISTR that one other chap used a 1024 with great success but I had a 1224 handy so... It is held in place with some double sided tape with a foam core. A caution, do not tighten the holder screws too tight as this slows the motor. My 17 is still a bit slow but I put that down to the gearing and she is now very quiet and smoke free (touches wood while typing this last part) ;)

 

HTH

 

David

Link to post
Share on other sites

Mornin.

Here should be brief, edited resume of what I did to 2 of these. This applies to the first issue and I posted it on another forum which was active on this topic at the time. Hope it is if some use.

Steve

 

I've just re-motored two of these for a friend with Mashima Flat Can 16/28s. ?? 20.50 each inc p+p from CometModels.This gives you as much quality motor as you can get in very easily.

 

The flywheel bores need opening out to 2mm, and there's a small locating pip which needs removing from the chassis casting. The top plastic half of the motor mounting clasp can still be used by careful use of the 4 screws, run only partway in.

 

The other problem which occurs with this model can be tightness of the gear tower assembly.

I removed the brass worm and its attendant bearings,note the flats filed on the top edge to stop the bearings from spinning,( there was no end-float between these three parts, and the stub axles were a little too snug in the bearing bores).

 

The inner faces of the bearings were dressed back a little and the bores opened out likewise.

Both are now re-assembled and running in lovely. Dead slow crawl at 1v, whereas the motors supplied wouldn't even run with no load at less than 6v and sounded like an angry wasp.

 

Shouldn't be necessary, of course and I' m glad I didn't wait all that time for them to appear with these faults. Poor assembly coupled with an awful motor! That said, it's a nice looking model but runs like a dog, unless you've been VERY lucky.

Steve

Edited by Carnforth
Link to post
Share on other sites

Guest Max Stafford

Tried without success to get the flywheels onto a 1224. One went on fine, but the second got halfway on then refused to budge either way. Deciding the desired re-power wasn't going to happen, I decided to get them back off, but in trying to remove the troublesome flywheel managed to dislodge the brush end of the motor. Although I got the thing back on and the motor works, if a little less smoothly, the brush end is no longer a tight fit on the can end. I'm really hacked off that I appear to have spoiled a brand new motor. To add insult to injury, I understand that the November date for the new chassis has once again slipped to an indeterminate date.

Heljan will be getting not one penny more of my hard earned until they get this one sorted out - I'm getting tired of being messed about.

 

Dave.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Guest Max Stafford

I've filed the contact faces on the bearings down to 0.25mm, but finger turning the worm still requires a considerable effort and having tested the drive in a rudimentary fashion I conclude that there's still enough resistance in those bearings to cook a motor. I'm not really sure where to go from here, but the black beetle option is looking increasingly attractive, or perhaps a pair of High Level remote towers. Bachmann maybe? One thing's sure, Heljan must be cursing these things as much as I am! ;)

 

Dave.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Knowing nothing about Black Beetle's Dave, does this mean 2 sets or are they man enough for 1 and 1 unpowered bogie? Much as I Like the thought of a proper open cab for the Heljan Clayton, at ??42 a pop it's looking an expensive option, though of course one would be more reasonable!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Guest Max Stafford

For that proper Bo-Bo grunt, I'd want two powered ones Bob, not cheap and you'd need to synch them via a decoder, but I'm loath to waste a good model just because of a seriously sub-standard gear assembly. I hope they've taken their time to get the replacement units functioning normally. I can honestly say my two kit-building expeditions have been far, far easier than trying to put the Clayton's drive units right! <_<

 

Dave.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Knowing nothing about Black Beetle's Dave, does this mean 2 sets or are they man enough for 1 and 1 unpowered bogie?

 

Well - I'm building a Dave Alexander whitemetal 10800 Bo-Bo, which came with two Tenshedo SPUDS.

 

The SPUDS were immediately rejected, returned and creditted as they were of the wrong wheelbase for the bogie sideframe - albeit only by a small margin.

 

I bit the bullet and ordered two Black Beetles of the correct wheelbase and wheel diameter and have fitted these to the partially completed kit.

 

The running is powerful and smooth, despite predictions in some quarters that the two powered bogies would 'fight' each other; (I have linked the pickups of the two units to smooth out any momentary loss of power).

 

The Black Beetles are nowhere near as quiet as the Heljan Kestrel which is also on my test track at the moment. That said, the noise which 10800 makes is far closer to what I expect a diesel electric loco to sound like that the almost imperceptible purr of Kestrel.

 

A pair of Black Beetles is a significant investment but, with two in my Kitmaster Midland Pullman rake and two in 10800 I am more than convinced that it is money well spent.

 

That said - it should not be necessary to be even thinking of this solution for the Heljan Clayton - they should run as smoothly as my Heljan Kestrel does, straight from the box !!

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Guest Max Stafford

Agreed John, we shouldn't have to be doing this. I hate to sound like a whinger, but myself and many other ScR modellers had been waiting a very long time for a Class 17. We could just about live with the delay that saw them miss their planned Glasgow debut, but here we are, 9 months later, still waiting to put our 1960s signature type 1s into action. If I'm a little short-tempered in relation to this issues, I hope folks will forgive me.

 

Dave.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Afternoon all

Following on from my post re. re-motoring 2 Heljan Claytons and this thread has veered towards substitute bogies/gear towers and kits, here's how I powered my Dave Alexander Clayton. 2x Bachmann CL25 bogies/shafts/flywheels with a Mashima flat-can mounted on the cab floor. The bogies were still fitted as per kit with press-studs but under the bonnets using plasticard packers to get the ride height correct. 8 wheel drive/pickup, drives just like a Bachmann 25, well it would, wouldn't it!

I've also built them "as supplied" and with Black beetles too but was less than impressed.

Steve

PS Dave make sure that the bearing haven't been displaced, and that the flats are uppermost in their housing.If you want to PM me you're not too far away and I can do a 3rd Heljan one as described if you so wish.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...