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Double Heading


richbrummitt

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I'm still working on having things moving on the layout at Expo with under three weeks remaining.

 

Several weeks ago a pleasant suprise landed in my inbox, an opportunity to test build two new locomotive chassis kits. A short exchange of emails later and a subsequent jiffy packet arriving through the letter box and we were away.

 

The chassis are to fit the GF 57xx body and the Dapol 0-4-2T

 

4650684959_7d3ff1f51c.jpg 4650684685_1b1fce3f05.jpg

 

Also included was a jig for assembling the frames

 

4651301796_ae27926410.jpg

 

First the frames are bushed before inserting into the jig, which is easily folded up sqaure using the tabs and markers provided.

 

4650685203_523161f3f9.jpg

 

4651302968_c8fef6dc02.jpg

 

It is best to open up the bearing holes first and use 1.6mm drills to locate in the jig. I found this out afterwards. Phosphor bronze and even PCB frames are much stiffer than etched under the pillar drill!

 

Next up the pick up springs were added and the motor mount attached...

 

4650685727_c111452744.jpg

 

...followed by gears and wheels. I quarter wheels by hand/eye.

 

4651303366_e6b544c8ff.jpg

 

Next up was the brake assembly.

 

4706180880_c5ffeec2ef.jpg

 

I wanted to make these removable so set about insulating them from the frames to allow a complete cross piece from 0.3mm n/s wire through the bottom. Short pins of microrod were added at the top of the brake arms to locate into the holes in the frames. Once painted they are insulated.

 

Here the locomotives are pictured working and near complete. Both have 8mm coreless motors. The bodies have had no detailing, but there is some minor interior modification to allow fitment of extra weight.

 

4706141062_12dbec0bdc.jpg

 

This is especially true of the Dapol body. I mounted the motor the easy way (into the cab) and have virtually run out of space for lead to move the balance forward to gain better electrical pick up and adhesion.

 

4706141064_28531659d3.jpg

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11 Comments


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The Higgs - Meister has been busy I see... :lol:

Interesting to see these appear...

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It's good to see these. I feel some purchasing coming on when they are released. You look to have made a very nice job of them.

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Richard, thanks for posting.

 

How is the pannier chassis retained in the body and does one have to use a coreless motor?

 

Cheers,

David

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How is the pannier chassis retained in the body and does one have to use a coreless motor?

 

Erm, at the moment it isn't. I think I said they were nearly finished. There are some holes on the sideframes that act as drilling aids for the fixing holes in the body. I haven't used them, prefering an alternative.

 

The motors are 8mm because that is all that will fit without major butchery. It may not even be possible to fit a 10mm motor. (The 0-6-0T did have a 10mm FH on for a bit before fitting the body and that ran really nicely, but I took it out for a large number of reasons, including those given.) I don't know of any currently available 8mm motors that aren't coreless. I really like the Mashima flat cans, but even the smallest is too big for most 2mm models.

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The motors are 8mm because that is all that will fit without major butchery. It may not even be possible to fit a 10mm motor. (The 0-6-0T did have a 10mm FH on for a bit before fitting the body and that ran really nicely, but I took it out for a large number of reasons, including those given.) I don't know of any currently available 8mm motors that aren't coreless. I really like the Mashima flat cans, but even the smallest is too big for most 2mm models.

 

Its probably worth pointing out that I supplied Richard with the 'advanced' version of the Pannier chassis. This drives on the rear axle and allows you to use an 8mm coreless motor that will appear to be the boiler of the loco, with the daylight below that real Panniers have. The builder is expected to butcher the body to achieve this, and perhaps build himself a new footplate as Julia did - sorry, I mean Missy in this parallel universe.

 

There will also be a 'beginners' version that will drive on the middle axle as the Bachmann chassis does, and allow larger motors such as a 10mm coreless within the firebox/cab. This should require no body modifications.

 

For the 14XX there is little alternative to the 8mm coreless. Although a 10mm version might just squeeze in if a 21:1 wormset is used instead of the 30:1.

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Its probably worth pointing out that I supplied Richard with the 'advanced' version of the Pannier chassis. This drives on the rear axle and allows you to use an 8mm coreless motor that will appear to be the boiler of the loco, with the daylight below that real Panniers have. The builder is expected to butcher the body to achieve this............

 

Thanks for the clarification Chris.

 

It would appear from your explanation that, in Richard's last photograph, he has shown the loco body the 'wrong way round' in relation to the chassis?

 

David

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Thanks for the clarification Chris.

 

It would appear from your explanation that, in Richard's last photograph, he has shown the loco body the 'wrong way round' in relation to the chassis?

 

David

 

No, the last photo is of the 14XX Autotank, not the Pannier

 

Chris

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These look really nice. Some neat workmanship there.

Donw

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Richard, thanks for posting.

 

How is the pannier chassis retained in the body and does one have to use a coreless motor?

 

Cheers,

David

 

After having played around with the CAD, and also the actual Pannier body, I have come to the conclusion that you cannot fit anything larger than a 10mm cylindrical motor in without major chunks of the casting being removed. This applies to whichever axle you drive the loco off. So even the smallest Mashima I have (16mm by 12mm by 10mm) cannot be used, and it looks like coreless is the only option.

 

Chris

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