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You too can have a body like this....


2mm Andy

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(or the sweet smell of success singed fingernails!)

 

Pete asked last time about progress on the body of the shunter. At that time I had only cut a few parts from the etch and formed things like the cab steps and the funny little boxes in front of the cab. I wasn't sure how much I could assemble without needing to check the fit of the motor and gearbox, so it didn't seem sensible to progress too far too fast.

 

After a fairly stressful week at work, I decided to celebrate on Friday by escaping work a bit earlier than usual and popping into town to purchase the small drills I forgot to get last weekend at the Watford show. The first job upon getting back home was to fit the 'Simpson' springs - these are short lengths of straightened N gauge coupling spring wire, soldered at one end with the other end set across the middle of the axle bearing hole (the axle hole having been enlarged to 1.6mm from the nominal 1.5mm normally used in 2FS chassis). Despite this going against 'conventional' chassis construction advice and rules, this works really well.

 

I then had a go at milling some frame spacers. My first attempt was in brass, but this was an unmitigated disaster (I definitely need to brush up on my techniques for milling brass) so I started again using an offcut of 'Tufnol' - much easier to mill! After a bit of fiddling and filing to get the spacers to clear the gears and muffs of the gearbox, these were drilled for 12BA bolts to hold the frames and spacers together. Next mistake - I read the wrong line of the data charts and drilled the holes to clearance diameter, not tapping diameter! :angry: . I should have packed-up the modelling and done something easier at this point, but I decided to press-on and see what other disasters awaited!

 

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Having assembled the frames with bolts, everything looked OK, so I started enlarging the etched footplate in the kit to fit the gearbox and motor arrangement I had designed (see previous blog posting). I got carried away then, and decided to form the engine cover, adding the engine cover doors and panels before soldering the layers of the radiator together and adding them to the front of the engine covers. An piece of scrap etch was cut to fit inside the end of the engine covers and the radiator assembly soldered to this. There were a few choice words when, trying to tweak one of the doors into position, I lingered too long with the iron and the whole lot disintegrated into a heap of bits of nickel silver! Half-an-hour later, having put the whole lot back together again, I moved on to the step/bufferbeam assemblies, which is where the subtitle of this blog post is most appropriate. Several scorched/melted fingernails later, I had two sets of steps and bufferbeams in place, although the joints need tidying-up as I think there are some minor errors with the etch. After all that, the body looked like this:

 

blogentry-8055-0-67576000-1298832191_thumb.jpg

 

One last photo - just to check everything fits OK of course!;)

 

blogentry-8055-0-94040100-1298832140_thumb.jpg

 

There is a bit more work to do on the body - the engine cover needs fixing in place and there are a whole load of small details to add. The chassis needs painting before final assembly, and I've also got to work out a way of fixing the chassis to the body. Plenty to keep me occupied I think!

 

And whilst conducting a bit of research to identify how some of the more awkward bits of the etch were supposed to be fitted, I found a rather good video here. The Class 02 loco is at 6 minutes 53 seconds. Catchy music as well!

 

Andy :)

 

EDIT : Photo added to give a better idea of scale;

 

blogentry-8055-0-32523700-1298841520_thumb.jpg

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  • RMweb Gold

When you remember the photo must be larger than life size its a great piece of work.

Don

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  • RMweb Gold

Great stuff Andy...even though I feel a tad responsible for asking...which led to singed fingers.

 

Your soldering is so neat it could also have been superglued together...and that photo showing the penny it just great.

 

Look forward to seeing it move on your layout...but without the catchy music ;)

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Hello Andy :)

 

Thats comming together really well. So much so that I am now thiking of getting mine out and re-working it! The soldering is very neat, did you use the resistance soldering thingy for any of it?

 

Missy :)

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Pete,

 

Your original question was a good thing - it got me motivated, and I was amazed at just how far I got with the bodywork. Anyway, my fingers aren't too singed, and fingernails do grow back! ;)

 

I have to confess about being a bit hung up on using a bare minimum of solder - and the solder cream that Carrs sell in a syringe makes it so easy to apply anyway.

 

The photos were taken in the gloom of my workspace yesterday. I tried to take some photos outside, but everytime I opened the back door it started raining!

 

Missy,

 

Perhaps we should arrange an '02 meet' at some point?! When Steve and Michael have finished theirs, there will be at least 5 in existence (and probably several more!)

 

The soldering is done with my usual 25w Antex iron. I only get to borrow the RSU occasionally unfortunately. I reckon it would have been useful for the bonnet overlays, but I would probably have needed the normal soldering iron for the other joints.

 

How are you getting on with your RSU?

 

Andy

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  • RMweb Premium

Very neat work, Andy.

 

I'm intrigued by the Transit van in the background – who's kit is that?

 

David

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Very neat work, Andy.

 

I'm intrigued by the Transit van in the background – who's kit is that?

 

David

 

 

Thanks David,

 

It's from R.Parker, who sells a small range of N gauge vehicles, and a larger range of 4mm scale vehicles. He regularly advertises in the Railway Modeller - If you want any more information I have a price list at home with more information. AFAIK he doesn't do email/websites, so it's a case of letter and cheque. I think there may be some information on an old thread somewhere on RMWeb.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Andy

 

 

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Andy

 

The chassis looking very nice - one day I'll pluck up the courage to mill something other than PCB :( I'd like to get straight into the brass blocks, but I think Tufnol is a good starting point for practice. By the way, what is the separation between the frames?

 

Keep it coming please, with lots of the very useful pictures of the various stages.

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Steve,

 

The spacers are milled to a width to suit the chassis standards in the 2mm Yearbook - I think they're 6.8mm (the sideframe material is 0.5mm pcb).

 

Tufnol is nice and easy to machine - I bought a piece at the Warley show years ago for a few quid, and I reckon I've used a quarter of it. Be careful though - there are different types (grades?) - some finer than others.

 

I will send you the CAD drawing as previously promised if you still want it - I'm pretty close to knowing whether the chassis will work as designed.

 

Andy

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Thanks Andy, those dimensions make sense - I'd been reading the yearbook for all the other dimensions, but just missed this one :unsure: Thanks also for the offer of the CAD drawing, I'm OK as I found a copy that I was sent a while ago, and so I have enough to get on with at the moment.

 

Am I right in guessing that the wheels are 7mm?

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Steve,

 

Spacers confirmed as 6.8mm - I've just measured one.

 

The wheels are 7mm dia.!

 

Don't forget that if you use the same gears as Missy and myself that you'll need the special m*ffs (2mm shope code 3-102) to take the 14 tooth gears.

 

Andy

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