New member in Scotland

[Guest Model.Maker]

Hi

 

Im a new member, based in Central Scotland.  Been a lurker for a long time but decided to finally sign up.  I've been modelling for as long as I can remember (Im in my mid-40's), mainly in railways, WW2 aviation and WW2 maritime.  I love building kits, plastic though as Im not the best at soldering!

 

I currently model in a variety of scales - US 3.5mm/HO, UK 4mm/OO and UK 7mm/O.  The first and latter are relatively new to me although I've had several false starts in HO before.  I have a dormant 4mm layout that I reckon I'll sell on/scrap as its doing nothing for me (1970's Lancashire).

 

My plans are to create a micro 3.5mm layout inspired by Tilley Yard South, a small 7mm layout and most probably a micro 4mm layout.  At the moment life and work takes its toll on my spare time (as it does for many of us!), so I dont get as much time as I'd like to spend modelling.

 

I use NCE DCC and on my 4mm stock, Kadee's, although Im planning on changing these to Sprat & Winkle, which I'll also use in 7mm.

[vitalspark]

Hi

 

Im a new member, based in Central Scotland.  Been a lurker for a long time but decided to finally sign up.  I've been modelling for as long as I can remember (Im in my mid-40's), mainly in railways, WW2 aviation and WW2 maritime.  I love building kits, plastic though as Im not the best at soldering!

 

I currently model in a variety of scales - US 3.5mm/HO, UK 4mm/OO and UK 7mm/O.  The first and latter are relatively new to me although I've had several false starts in HO before.  I have a dormant 4mm layout that I reckon I'll sell on/scrap as its doing nothing for me (1970's Lancashire).

 

My plans are to create a micro 3.5mm layout inspired by Tilley Yard South, a small 7mm layout and most probably a micro 4mm layout.  At the moment life and work takes its toll on my spare time (as it does for many of us!), so I dont get as much time as I'd like to spend modelling.

 

I use NCE DCC and on my 4mm stock, Kadee's, although Im planning on changing these to Sprat & Winkle, which I'll also use in 7mm.

 

 

Few words regarding the S & W.

 

Spratt & Winkles are excellent and can be much improved Imo if you use a hook at only one end of a vehicle.

 

We use them in 4mm but use 3mm frets as they are much less obvious plus only one hook and bar meaning that there is always only one chain hanging between wagons..a small point but its amazing how much you notice it.

 

 

Just noticed that the bar on one wagon has received a knock and is slightly up..should be nose to nose but it doesn't really matter as they propel on the hook and very effectively.

 

Long rakes of wagons can be propelled over reverse curves and points without drama and far better than tension locks.

 

Coupling security is not compromised and if using magnets for uncoupling its much more reliable as you don't get the one hook dropped and one stuck syndrome.

 

As a bonus one fret does twice the amount of wagons so very reasonable too.

 

Also always use the hunting brackets and do not tack a wire across the buffers..why do people do this on an otherwise good quality layout which along with oversize 4mm hooks look like something fitted to early Tri-ang stock.

 

Make up a simple jig and spends a fiver on a  Bill Bedford bending jig and you will be knocking identical couplings up by the dozen and very cheaply.

 

You will need to learn some basic soldering but with the jig its dead easy and I reckon my wife could do it!

 

I have demo'd these couplings at the SECC for a few years now but was planning on doing something different to give the public a break but will still have the basics there so if you are attending Modelrail Scotland in Feb call by and you can ask

 

any questions you might have.

 

 

 

Anyway good luck with your projects.

 

Dave.

[Guest Model.Maker]

Few words regarding the S & W.

 

Spratt & Winkles are excellent and can be much improved Imo if you use a hook at only one end of a vehicle.

 

We use them in 4mm but use 3mm frets as they are much less obvious plus only one hook and bar meaning that there is always only one chain hanging between wagons..a small point but its amazing how much you notice it.

 

IMG_8552.jpeg

 

Just noticed that the bar on one wagon has received a knock and is slightly up..should be nose to nose but it doesn't really matter as they propel on the hook and very effectively.

 

Long rakes of wagons can be propelled over reverse curves and points without drama and far better than tension locks.

 

Coupling security is not compromised and if using magnets for uncoupling its much more reliable as you don't get the one hook dropped and one stuck syndrome.

 

As a bonus one fret does twice the amount of wagons so very reasonable too.

 

Also always use the hunting brackets and do not tack a wire across the buffers..why do people do this on an otherwise good quality layout which along with oversize 4mm hooks look like something fitted to early Tri-ang stock.

 

Make up a simple jig and spends a fiver on a  Bill Bedford bending jig and you will be knocking identical couplings up by the dozen and very cheaply.

 

You will need to learn some basic soldering but with the jig its dead easy and I reckon my wife could do it!

 

I have demo'd these couplings at the SECC for a few years now but was planning on doing something different to give the public a break but will still have the basics there so if you are attending Modelrail Scotland in Feb call by and you can ask

 

any questions you might have.

 

IMG_8580.jpeg

 

IMG_8584.jpeg

 

Anyway good luck with your projects.

 

Dave.

Hi Dave

 

Many thanks for your very informative post.

 

I used S&W's in an N Gauge product many years back with some success.  I have a Bill Bedford handrail jig and never thought of using that as a loop jig!  Thanks for that titbit!

 

I've dabbled with S&W's on 4mm stock too, just basic trials to see how it looked etc, using the 3mm etches, so I reckon that's the direction I'll take, I will need some double ended wagons though as I dont want to fit the hooks to loco's

 

Thanks again

 

M.M

[vitalspark]

We don't fit hooks to the locos only loops but tbh unless stock is rem,kved and replaced wrong way round we dont encounter the expected issue of loop- too loop or the reverse.

 

We also have a couple of double ended wagons and a few brakevans with hooks on either end as they are the one thing that reverses. 

 

As there is also a few rakes of tension lock types amongst the hundred's of wagons we have match vans with a S&W on one end and a TL on the other.

 

For exhibitions we keep fixed rakes like mineral tanks and van trains together and only shunt the mixed stock so the S&W is fitted to the latter for realistic shunting.

 

Intention would be to have all stock 3 link for block minerals and S&W everything else..but with he amount we have I need break from it for a bit.

 

Dave.

[Ohmisterporter]

Welcome to the forum MM. It looks like you already know what you are doing but even so you will find plenty of advice and inspiration on here. 

[jcm@gwr]

Hello MM, (AKA the man with no name!)

 

Welcome to the forum.

 

I'm also using S&W, IMHO they are the best compromise.

 

Jeff