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TimC's 7mm BR Blue Workbench - JLTRT BR CCT





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#51 TimC

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Posted 25 March 2011 - 18:19

Jeez - Over six weeks since I've made an update.

We'll some very unexpected contract work has turned up and put paid to any progress on the DMU - though it'll no doubt fund a few more projects or two. Any modelling time I have had has gone into a low relief engine shed and associated office block for a friend's 7mm layout. I'll try to post a picture in a couple of days - nearly there with that little job.

The body of the Cravens DTCL is assembled and the roof attached just waiting for all the filler and associated cleaning up. I may get a chance to do this next week. However, I'll also find out next week if a three month travelling assignment is on (its been on-off-on-off-on for weeks now) and that starts on April 4. In which case, all modelling will be put away until the autumn as my wife and I will be off sailing in July/August.



#52 two tone green

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Posted 27 March 2011 - 18:39

Yes, similar here. The 108 has been put on the back burner for a while due to the sun coming out. It will be a few weeks before any more is done. Away for the next two weeks working and then three weeks away on holiday. :)

#53 TimC

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Posted 30 March 2011 - 10:25

Here is the low relief engine shed that has kept the DMU off the modelling table.

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It is destined to feature on a new 7mm layout by a friend of mine from Sodbury Vale Model Railway Club. I've still got to sort out the cladding where the shed joins the offices and do a bit of tidying up in some areas but I'll leave that until it is ready to be fixed on the layout. This will not be until the autumn as the trackwork is only just complete and awaits wiring, ballast etc.

Right - just about enough time this morning to get that roof on the DCTL and do some filling.....
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#54 TimC

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Posted 18 September 2011 - 10:56

Right, back home and back at that modelling table......

Plan for this week is to get the underframes done

#55 boxbrownie

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Posted 18 September 2011 - 14:07

Hi Tim, seems all the railcar work has been on hold or slowed to a trickle for the past few months, I have been concerntrating on getting my Heljan locos finished (weathered, detailed and sound fitted) and of course thr stable increased slightly over the Telford weekend!

Although I did buy a casting tree of door handles for the DMU......well the poor 108 would have felt really left out if I had bought nothing at all for it.

Today I am on a mission to find decals for a Newspaper 57' coach (also from Telford, a Skytrex actually and I am very pleased with it, just needs a little fettling and detailing to bring it up a little, and a bargain at the shows special offer price).

Right, now back to the web....where did I put my credit card? :)

#56 SPT

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Posted 19 September 2011 - 10:17

when will it be finished

#57 boxbrownie

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Posted 19 September 2011 - 12:03

when will it be finished

Its not the finishing, its the taking part :)
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#58 TimC

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Posted 19 September 2011 - 12:32

Its not the finishing, its the taking part :)


Absolutely! There is quite a bit of work in these DMUs. I get a few hours modelling on weekday mornings subject to other commitments and chores so it will not rocket along. I'm trying to get the Cravens finished before starting any other projects - I really want to get at my Heljan locos like David but am resisting having too many in-progress/unfinished projects on the go, so more incentive to get the DMU done.

Made up the buffer beams/buffers this morning and got back in synch with the instructions so now have a plan of attack. I'll post some pics later in the week.

#59 TimC

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Posted 22 September 2011 - 16:00

OK, as BR used to say 'we are getting there'

Here are a few shots of the Cravens. The bodies are almost done, though I've still got the interiors to do and as such I've left off some bits that could get damaged/broken/crushed in handling (water filler pipes/footsteps etc). Once I've got the interior fettled then I'll go back and add these details.

The underframe detail was added this week and needs some time to do to ensure that all the bits and bobs are correctly identified and it is understood where they go. The instructions are quite good here and there are loads of prototype shots on the CD of the preserved unit at the East Lancs. I've yet to add the copper wire for pipes/conduits, a job for next week, once I've decided on how much I'm going to do.

Although, I've made all the brake shoes up I've yet to add them. I might run it again first before doing that just to make sure I'm happy. I've also got to test the unit around a curve to get an optimum position for the Kadees.

Also on the cards for next week is a trip outside to the paintshop (i.e. the patio) for a coat of primer to see how good (or not) the filler is around the front of the cab/roof and non driving ends.

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(Oh, I've spotted that one of the lamp irons is flat on the NDE of the DTCL - there are a real pain in the backside as they stand proud of the floor, I'd leave them and the buffers off until nearer the end if I was doing it over again).

FIngers crossed for a productive time next week.
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#60 Idle Speculation

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Posted 22 September 2011 - 16:41

Hello Tim,

It's great to see that this thread has returned again, as I have one of these kits in two lovely Easybuild boxes sitting under my workbench. Must say it's looking terrific but I do have slight misgivings about the kit's interpretation of the front windows.

#61 TimC

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Posted 22 September 2011 - 17:29

Hello Tim,

It's great to see that this thread has returned again, as I have one of these kits in two lovely Easybuild boxes sitting under my workbench. Must say it's looking terrific but I do have slight misgivings about the kit's interpretation of the front windows.


Hi

Hmmm, yes, I think you're probably right. I've wondered on this point too. Can't quite put my finger on the issue though - maybe a little too close together, a bit too square and a smidge smaller than the prototype if you refer to say this shot http://www.flickr.co...ool-1362082@N24 but not far off and not something that I'm going to have a go at adjusting.

It is a bit like the arguments over Heljan's 47 windows, you have the choice:- like it, lump it or fix it and there will be modellers who choose anyone of those three options! For me, the model catches the character of the prototype and I'm happy with it as if even if not 100% perfect. (I will not be changing the windows on my Heljan 47 either once that finds its way to the workbench).

Good luck you your build!

#62 Pugsley

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Posted 22 September 2011 - 20:11

I think that the cab windows are about right, but there is something up with the headcode mounts on the front end. You might find this topic of interest:
http://www.westernth...hp?topic=905.60

#63 TimC

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Posted 22 September 2011 - 22:30

I think that the cab windows are about right, but there is something up with the headcode mounts on the front end. You might find this topic of interest:
http://www.westernth...hp?topic=905.60


Ah thanks Martin - I'll have to register to see the attachments (a job for tomorrow). Someone down at club (Sodbury Vale) mentioned that forum only this week. I'll have a look.

Cheers

#64 brian daniels

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Posted 23 September 2011 - 15:11

Looking good Tim, looks like a Cravens to me.

#65 TimC

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Posted 30 September 2011 - 11:23

Looking good Tim, looks like a Cravens to me.


Thanks Brian.

This week has seen some progress though the weather has been too nice to stay indoors and do modelling. I added the exhaust pipes and both vehicles did find their way out to the patio for a touch of primer. The underframes also got a coat of matt black. However, the primer on the bodies did show a few areas which require a bit more attention on the filler around the roof join and on the cab fronts where I removed the headcode box. A job for next week.

While I had the paints out some of my unweathered wagons seem to have crawled out from under the work bench so they may get some attention next week if the weather stays reasonable.

#66 TimC

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Posted 09 October 2011 - 10:26

This week has seen some wagons get weathered and finished (!).

These Lionheart RTR 16t minerals are great in my view. They have been coaled with Modellers Mate coal which to me looks a good grade for household coal in 7mm. Weathering has been a wash on/off of 'weathering mix', followed by some Scenic Rust, then out with the airbrush for the underframe with a selection from Com-Arts Real Deal Weathering Pack and finally some highlights from Tamiya Weatherline Master pallets.

I've renumbered a few of the wagons using some homemade waterslide slide transfers I've knocked up with Craft Computer Papers. My inkjet printer doesn't do a good white so I resorted to having black painted number panels and using the white of the transfer sheet for the numbers/markings themselves. The maintenance data panels on the re-plated one and the vent van were made the same way.

[It is interesting when reviewing this post before posting that the colours in the pictures are not right, I've taken the shots in the kitchen under halogen spots and the mineral wagons have come out with a yellow tinge in places and the bauxite is far too red in the photos. Its too windy to take them outside today but I may try and see how different they photograph in natural light later in the week. Anyway, you'll get the idea if what I've done.]

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I have also done my JLTRT 12t BR Plywood Van. A nice kit, easy to build but I'm not convinced that the brake gear is correct, the arrangement doesn't represent any of the 12t Vans with 8 brake shoes I've looked at. However, it looks the part so I'm happy with it. I've got another one of these in progress (has been for some time :O ) completing this one may give it a push, we'll see.....

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FInally, here is a Slaters 20t LMS brake Van which I picked up second hand. Reasonably well made but the paint job is a bit dodgy in a few areas which I've tried to mask. The floor of the veranda has been painted bauxite and I've considered trying to fix this but I'd probably make it a mess as access with the roof stuck on is not very good so it'll stay like it. In due course, I'll build my own and sell this one on.

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The Cravens DMU also got some attention this week and I'll put up a post of progress there later on or maybe tomorrow.

#67 boxbrownie

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Posted 09 October 2011 - 15:47

This week has seen some wagons get weathered and finished (!).

These Lionheart RTR 16t minerals are great in my view. They have been coaled with Modellers Mate coal which to me looks a good grade for household coal in 7mm. Weathering has been a wash on/off of 'weathering mix', followed by some Scenic Rust, then out with the airbrush for the underframe with a selection from Com-Arts Real Deal Weathering Pack and finally some highlights from Tamiya Weatherline Master pallets.

I've renumbered a few of the wagons using some homemade waterslide slide transfers I've knocked up with Craft Computer Papers. My inkjet printer doesn't do a good white so I resorted to having black painted number panels and using the white of the transfer sheet for the numbers/markings themselves. The maintenance data panels on the re-plated one and the vent van were made the same way.

[It is interesting when reviewing this post before posting that the colours in the pictures are not right, I've taken the shots in the kitchen under halogen spots and the mineral wagons have come out with a yellow tinge in places and the bauxite is far too red in the photos. Its too windy to take them outside today but I may try and see how different they photograph in natural light later in the week. Anyway, you'll get the idea if what I've done.]


Lovely job on those Lionhearts, I looked closely at those during telford, the pannier and autocoach are almost good enough to turn a dyed in the wool LNER man to GWR.....nah, not really. :)

As to the inkjet transfers there was only one printer that ever printed a white base which was the ALPS printer sadley no longer available I beleive. As inkjet printers assume you are printing on white paper anyway so no white ink of course....I was alittle confused by your description of how you got around the problem, but I would have though the easiest way it to have a white base colour where the panle is and make a black "negative" transfer of the numbers, effectively printing the black panel as a transfer, that way the white underneath will show through. I have yet to try the inkjet transfer media as you may have guessed!

With the halogen lighting, have a gander at your cameras manual white balance settings, there will be one for tungsten and that should give a close match for the colour balance unless there is daylight as well in the mix, what looks like strong artificial light to us can be confused by just a little daylight through a window with a cameras balance, our brain does a wonderous job of telling us lies.....the camera just uses '0' and '1's :)

#68 TimC

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Posted 09 October 2011 - 16:40

Lovely job on those Lionhearts, I looked closely at those during telford, the pannier and autocoach are almost good enough to turn a dyed in the wool LNER man to GWR.....nah, not really. :)

As to the inkjet transfers there was only one printer that ever printed a white base which was the ALPS printer sadley no longer available I beleive. As inkjet printers assume you are printing on white paper anyway so no white ink of course....I was alittle confused by your description of how you got around the problem, but I would have though the easiest way it to have a white base colour where the panle is and make a black "negative" transfer of the numbers, effectively printing the black panel as a transfer, that way the white underneath will show through. I have yet to try the inkjet transfer media as you may have guessed!

With the halogen lighting, have a gander at your cameras manual white balance settings, there will be one for tungsten and that should give a close match for the colour balance unless there is daylight as well in the mix, what looks like strong artificial light to us can be confused by just a little daylight through a window with a cameras balance, our brain does a wonderous job of telling us lies.....the camera just uses '0' and '1's :)


Hi David

Thanks.

Sorry, yes, the Crafty Computer Water-slide Paper comes in white or clear. I used the white paper so really just printed the black background leaving the white of the paper as the letters as you say above.

I'll have to look at the camera. I know my Canon 60D has white balance correction but I use an old Coolpix point and shoot for snapping pics for RMweb. Saying that it probably does have white balance correction.

#69 TimC

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Posted 09 October 2011 - 17:32

Well, this week, the Cravens too found its way out to the paint shop (picnic table on the patio).

There are a few areas which require touching up and the roof is need a thorough application of grime (the grey is still Halfords Plastic Primer grey) and the front buffer beams require painting black. I used JLTRT Spray Away paint for the body.

DMBS
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DTCL
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I've made a mistake on the DTCL as I forgot to apply the yellow stripe over the first class section. I'll have to test to see if the yellow covers well over the blue on some scrap plasticard before I attempt that correction and if it doesn't then my DTCL will be declassified which they were by the mid 1980s (but the photo I have of my DTCL in 1981 still has a first class stripe so I would like to correct it if possible).

The cars are back together for a test run this Wednesday night down at the Avon Gauge O Group meeting - running quality check and to see whether they will go around the curves with the Kadees. However, since Pugsley pointed me in the direction of '28ten's Cravens build posted on the Western Thunderer forum, I've been thinking about doing a motor bogie like his. The motor arrangement provided in the kit works but is quite noisy (well it is on mine) so we'll see, I've not decided yet. I may finish the build and then revisit the motor bogie at a future date.

The interior, the glazing and the dcc installation are the last major areas I've got to do but there are a number of detail bits I need to go back to and fit. One job is the water filling pipes for the toilet water tank on the DTCL. Having had a look at various photos I've noticed that the pipe arrangement and their fitting on the roof is not as per the kit's instructions.

Here is a good view of the roof of a DTCL http://www.flickr.co...ckr/5803718834/ (I love this photo it just is so full of little everyday details from that period). The filler pipes are offset and enter the roof above the WC in the DTCL and not centrally as per the instructions. The ventilator arrangement is also different at the non driving end. The instructions assume the ventilators of both cars are the same, except for the roof pipe fitting. Here is my DTCL.

DSCN1622.JPG

I thought something was odd when I started looking at fitting the pipes. I'll try and remove the ventilator above the loo (thankfully I used Rocket superglue so the buster should hopefully release it). I'll then replicate arrangement per the photograph.

Last week, I was out Oxford way and on my way home I decided to call in at Howes new shop at the Station Field Trading Estate in Kidlington. I successfully DID NOT come away with a Heljan Deltic though I've been very tempted with Brian Daniel's recent posts/videos. However, some of Brian's locos were there in display case to show what could be done with the Heljan 7mm RTR models, including his 33/0. I think that I may park the Cravens for a little bit after its test run while I do my Class 33.

Saying that I've got a few chores lined up for next two weeks so its unlikely that I'll get much modelling done.

#70 two tone green

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Posted 09 October 2011 - 17:49

Excellent Tim. It makes me want to get on with my 108 which has been on hold now for a while due to motor bogie issues.

I have decided to get ABC gears to make me a bogie to go in my 108 and its ready, just awaiting delivery so I hope to fit it soon and then see you down by the river side for a test run.

#71 boxbrownie

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 08:00

Tim, thats looking great in solid blue, confirms my desire to have mine solid rather than blue/grey.

TTG.....I would be very interested to see the ABC bogie when you get it, I have been on to Shawn (always helpful and willing to listen to ideas) about ordering a few bits from the EB motor bogie as I wish to adapt it to enable me to utilise a slaters g'box motor combination (as the RC boxes are no longer available). But I am open to other ideas :)

#72 the penguin of doom

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 08:09

Very nice Tim. With yours and Andy's threads its a big help for me about to start out with O kit building. Thanks.


Me too.

I have a couple of things in the pipeline and the thread here as well as Andy's are giving me lots of ideas.

Cheers guys.

Sean.

#73 TimC

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 08:24

Excellent Tim. It makes me want to get on with my 108 which has been on hold now for a while due to motor bogie issues.

I have decided to get ABC gears to make me a bogie to go in my 108 and its ready, just awaiting delivery so I hope to fit it soon and then see you down by the river side for a test run.


HI TTG, Thanks, look forward to seeing you down the club some time.

Tim, thats looking great in solid blue, confirms my desire to have mine solid rather than blue/grey.

TTG.....I would be very interested to see the ABC bogie when you get it, I have been on to Shawn (always helpful and willing to listen to ideas) about ordering a few bits from the EB motor bogie as I wish to adapt it to enable me to utilise a slaters g'box motor combination (as the RC boxes are no longer available). But I am open to other ideas :)


David not many Cravens found their way into blue/grey so thankfully i didn't need to go down that road :derisive: .

I'd really recommend to both of you to have a look at this thread http://www.westernth...hp?topic=905.30 by 28ten on Western Thunderer (I'm afraid you'll probably have to register to see it but there is quite a bit of 7mm diesel era modelling written up on WT so worth a look). I have some of the ABC motor/gear-boxes 28ten has used (in stock for my JLTRT kits) they are excellent though not cheap. They are designed to be slim enough for a delrin chain drive to sit inside the frames of a bogie and quite a small footprint so I'd be surprised if you would even need to enlarge the hole in the floor.

Good luck guys!

#74 two tone green

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Posted 10 October 2011 - 19:20

Hi David, will take some photos once the gearbox bogie arrives but its a tad late some some more prompts for them to post things are in order. ABC gear boxes and bogies are excellent and they do run well.

Tim, will hopefully get to the club soon as I have missed it down there over the past few months. Will bring my 108 plus another model to run.

Regards

TTG

#75 TimC

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Posted 12 October 2011 - 21:48

Took the Cravens for a spin (or should I say grind) around the Avon GOG test track this evening.

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No problems with the curves but the motor is rather noisy. I think that I will replace the motor-bogie with something that runs quieter.