Jump to content
 

Whats on your 2mm Work bench


nick_bastable
 Share

Recommended Posts

It might be bang on for 2mm scale Chris but I'm still only an N gauge modeller as I could never afford to rewheel all my existing locos (hangs head in shame!). I'm I right in thinking that the chassis was designed by you?

 

Yes, I designed them. It took a lot of research for the 3 different types.

 

Chris

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, I designed them. It took a lot of research for the 3 different types.

 

Chris

 

Thank you for doing so. While a bit fiddly, it went together well and looks so much better than the awful looking thing Peco put under the wagon!

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • RMweb Premium

At the last AGM I had picked up a Terrier etch but was thwarted by the drivers been out of stock  unusually for me I had made a shopping list in advance :O  , however in the Late Steve Sykes collection where some suitable 8mm driver which where obtained after making  a suitable donation.    The M7 had been successful but its tractive effort is pathetic, I put this to one side and embarked on the Terrier after reading here how others had done it.  Unlike the M7 I chose to paint the chassis prior to adding the wheels and quartering which I found more successful although it will need some retouching.  The con-rods caused me problems  and there is no brake gears but its working and a quick on track  test shows far better haulage than the M7.   The bits to fabricate a stay alive are on order lets  hope I don't fry the chip  :no:  having seen the remarkable  results the vanguard are achieving using this 

 

 

No where near  the quality of others 2mm chassis but I feel rather pleased, it may be time to revisit earlier failed efforts

 

Nick

Edited by nick_bastable
  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

At the last AGM I had picked up a Terrier etch but was thwarted by the drivers been out of stock  unusually for me I had made a shopping list in advance :O  , however in the Late Steve Sykes collection where some suitable 8mm driver which where obtained after making  a suitable donation.    The M7 had been successful but its tractive effort is pathetic, I put this to one side and embarked on the Terrier after reading here how others had done it.  Unlike the M7 I chose to paint the chassis prior to adding the wheels and quartering which I found more successful although it will need some retouching.  The con-rods caused me problems  and there is no brake gears but its working and a quick on track  test shows far better haulage than the M7.   The bits to fabricate a stay alive are on order lets  hope I don't fry the chip  :no:  having seen the remarkable  results the vanguard are achieving using this 

 

 

No where near  the quality of others 2mm chassis but I feel rather pleased, it may be time to revisit earlier failed efforts

 

Nick

 

Wow, shortest video ever! I thought something had gone wrong.

 

OT: But it did lead me to this chat with the great man himself:

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Nice chap Malcolm. I spent most of an afternoon operating the terminus on Dick Dymock's garden railway with Malcolm. He'd only popped up to drop something off to Alan for painting.

 

Nice work Nick. I know some people have achieved good stay alive results using supercaps, however these need to be stacked in series to cope with the voltage which will come up against the space problem in 2mm. I imagine there is not a lot of room left in the Terrier.

 

Don

Link to post
Share on other sites

Another not quite 2mm fs effort for me. Not yet a physical model but I've spent a little time today butchering my original K3/3 CAD to represent a right hand drive version with GNR cab. I'm awaiting a part to finish servicing my 3D printer so it may be a little while before this one gets printed. It'll be paired with an LNER fared tender as it seems that all ten of the original K3s had these by the thirties...

 

post-943-0-52301300-1505497881_thumb.jpg

Edited by Atso
  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

Maybe this should be in a new topic, "What's not on your workbench?" - I made some progress on the CCT today, but one of the four axleguard/spring etchings decided to go into low earth orbit and hasn't be seen since. I guess I'll be trying to knock one up from plastic card unless there is a source of replacements?

 

It's a lovely piece of work the kit, a real pleasure to build.

 

Meanwhile I'm still pondering if I can manage a layout to enter the DJLC.....

 

Now. To do one more check of the kitchen floor...

 

Cheers all

John

Link to post
Share on other sites

Maybe this should be in a new topic, "What's not on your workbench?" - I made some progress on the CCT today, but one of the four axleguard/spring etchings decided to go into low earth orbit and hasn't be seen since. ...........

It's for this eventuality that I always try to put extras of small parts on my etches.

Best of luck John.

 

Jim

Edited by Caley Jim
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Now that the feverish activity of getting Modbury in a state that I felt was suitable for the general public is over, I can go back to some of the modelling projects that have been on hold for the last few months.  One of the first to find its way back onto my workbench is my GWR Buffalo 0-6-0 saddle tank.  I had left this with a part milled chassis that could be pushed along the workbench (once the wheels had been temporarily fitted).  Over the last couple of days I have progressed the chassis to the state pictured below :

post-12089-0-14270000-1506632519_thumb.jpgpost-12089-0-75495200-1506632531_thumb.jpg

post-12089-0-90831100-1506632544_thumb.jpgpost-12089-0-83823100-1506632553_thumb.jpg

 

The motor is a Nigel Lawton 8mm diameter one, with the shaft increased to 1.5mm dia with one of his little tubes.  This fits tightly into one end of the worm, the other end has a small turned flywheel with a 1.5mm shaft projecting at each end - the longer shaft is in the other end of the worm, and the short extension sits in a small ball race bearing.  A strip of insulation tape separates the two "halves" of the chassis, and insulating bushes are seated in the holes that will eventually be used to secure the body.  A pair of phosphor bronze wires have been soldered onto each half of the chassis to which the motor wires will eventually be attached.

 

And a short video of the motor wires touching a PP3 battery :

 

Ian

Edited by Ian Smith
  • Like 8
Link to post
Share on other sites

Another not quite finescale post from me...

 

post-943-0-97509300-1506641819.jpg

 

D49 'The Middleton' in BR livery nearing completion. The loco is one of my 3D prints running on a Dapol Schools chassis with M7 bogie and B1 bogie wheels. The worm has been taken out of the loco and it is powered by a Farish J39 tender drive - this is being build for a friend and this is how he wanted it set up. I've still got one or two detailing jobs to complete and wire the loco and tender together but it is coming together well, I think.

 

With the exception of the boiler bands (Fox Transfers) the loco and tender are hand lined using a ruling pen and bow compass. Being a Hunt, the loco really should have Lentz rotary valve gear but I've not plucked up the courage to try this yet...

 

This will be the second D49 I've built, my own 'Yorkshire' uses the same front end arrangement as Middleton but uses the Dapol drive system from a B1 tender and 3D printed tender top. Yorkshire is pictured below, courtesy of Tony Wright, on the North of England Line (thanks for letting us use the layout as a backdrop guys) and, other than weathering is complete and running.

 

post-943-0-04398000-1506642306_thumb.jpg

Edited by Atso
  • Like 9
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Ian,

 

Is the blu tack (pink tack?) motor mount permanent?

 

It looks a simple solution that I'd not considered.

 

Thanks

 

No, the pink tack was a temporary solution.  I intend making a little cradle (at the smokebox end) for the motor to be araldited to which in turn will be glued to the top of the chassis.

 

The chassis has now been stripped back to its component parts and the paint is drying.  A first coat of self etch primer, and a brush coat of thinned GWR Indian Red being applied to the wheels and chassis block.  The wheels have been stored (and painted) on a piece of card in their right order and side (so that I can restore them all to the same places when I rebuild the chassis).

Ian

Link to post
Share on other sites

Will it fit the Lima body as it is or can it also be adapted for a modified (backdated) Lima with tumblehomes on the ends, the N13?

It is designed for and fits Lima as is, i.e. N16. It's not as simple as shortening the solebars: In what I thought were the latter stages of design I found what appeared to be contradictory evidence but later was realisation and understanding that at some point in 'modern' horsebox design the GWR swapped the vacuum cylinder from side to side across the chassis. Good news: I also have artwork for this with the vacuum cylinder on the other side and shorter solebars. From memory the width of the Lima body is not quite right for N13, which was different to N12, N16.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

It is designed for and fits Lima as is, i.e. N16. It's not as simple as shortening the solebars: In what I thought were the latter stages of design I found what appeared to be contradictory evidence but later was realisation and understanding that at some point in 'modern' horsebox design the GWR swapped the vacuum cylinder from side to side across the chassis. Good news: I also have artwork for this with the vacuum cylinder on the other side and shorter solebars. From memory the width of the Lima body is not quite right for N13, which was different to N12, N16.

Having managed to get hold of a Lima horse box quite cheaply last month, I'm very interested in your chassis as part of my planned upgrade. Looking forward to seeing the test build with great interest and thanks.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks really good Rich! Like Atso I picked up a Lima body cheaply from a bits box at a show. I'd like to make as an early a variant as possible though - ideally to be plausible on a layout set c.1910-1923, but I'm pretty ignorant of GWR practice in general. Am I right in thinking that the Lima body with your shorter solebar and swapped cylinders, and the bodywork ends surgery you did on your earlier model, represent diagram N12? When were they built?

 

Justin

Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks really good Rich! Like Atso I picked up a Lima body cheaply from a bits box at a show. I'd like to make as an early a variant as possible though - ideally to be plausible on a layout set c.1910-1923, but I'm pretty ignorant of GWR practice in general. Am I right in thinking that the Lima body with your shorter solebar and swapped cylinders, and the bodywork ends surgery you did on your earlier model, represent diagram N12? When were they built?

Justin

Yes, pretty much, and before 1923.

Link to post
Share on other sites

It builds well enough. I need to get a further part though, and it will be a separate fret. It couldn't possibly have gone perfectly and I noticed early on that I forgot the brake handles!

 

post-8031-0-22477200-1507673444_thumb.jpg

 

Two lengths of spring are catered for. There are plenty of photos that show shorter springs were used later in their life

 

 

post-8031-0-78183800-1507673464_thumb.jpg

 

post-8031-0-30021500-1507673488_thumb.jpg

 

The body, particularly the roof and ends need some work to complete. Both would be better off replaced.

 

Build time was around 3 hours.

  • Like 6
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello all,

I haven't been totally idle over the last few weeks, as those that went to the AGM at Farnham will know.

Attached are some photos of the Schooner Freya V.

 

Description of model:

A three-masted topsail schooner with a cargo of Baltic timber for F J Reeves of Totnes in 1925. The ship is registered in Lübeck, Germany, has a displacement of 1,200 tons and is unloading at St Peter's Quay. After the Great War, her sail plan was revised to reduce crew requirements and she was fitted with an enclosed wheelhouse, an auxiliary diesel engine (ex U-boat) and a donkey engine and power windlass on the foredeck.

 

Constructional details:

The model started life as a fairly ancient and rudimentary Czech Republic plastic kit of the Cutty Sark, to 1:180 scale. The hull was cut down to the waterline and a couple of transverse slices were taken out to reduce the slender "clipper" shape. Masts were slightly reduced in height and the whole was totally re-rigged, with just two square sails on the foremast and fore and aft gaff-rigged sails on the main and mizzen. Sails are of thin paper, shrouds and rigging are of button thread and cotton. The windlass, donkey engine, wheelhouse and other details are scratch built in plastic card and the deck housings are modified.

 

The first photo shows work very much in progress and shows some of the new bits, in white. The second and third photos show Freya V on John Greenwood's excellent Wadebridge layout.

 

I had a great time at Farnham and enjoyed the chance to meet and chat with colleagues.

 

John

post-18048-0-64400600-1508180332_thumb.jpeg

post-18048-0-33071600-1508180375_thumb.jpeg

post-18048-0-39202300-1508180419_thumb.jpeg

Edited by JohnBS
  • Like 14
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello all,

A further post but really, not from me but from my son!

Nick has just finished a 3D model of a straight-framed Saint, which is now available from Shapeways, (Google SteamPrint nbs3000). Currently available in Frosted Extreme Detaill, at 2mm FS, price £30.25 plus shipping, complete with separately moulded cylinders and backhead.

So, if anyone fancies a Venetian Red Lady Godiva, now is the time.

John

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Been modelling this cottage which overlooked St Erth station and yard for many many years. Sadly, it was demolished several years ago to make way for a car park that is now being developed. It's painted as referenced to colour photos I have that were taken in my chosen era, the late fifties.

post-9850-0-69069900-1508538089_thumb.jpg

Edited by 2mmKiwi
  • Like 8
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello all,

A further post but really, not from me but from my son!

Nick has just finished a 3D model of a straight-framed Saint, which is now available from Shapeways, (Google SteamPrint nbs3000). Currently available in Frosted Extreme Detaill, at 2mm FS, price £30.25 plus shipping, complete with separately moulded cylinders and backhead.

So, if anyone fancies a Venetian Red Lady Godiva, now is the time.

John

 

I need to get the chassis done for these, in fact this post has prompted me to put it onto the etched artwork I am doing this week.

 

Was about to press the purchase button on Shapeways, until I realised that I

 

1. want the 1:148 version

2. would like it with curved drop front end. I fancy modelling 2906 as shown in BR days in GWRJ 42 p103.

 

https://i.pinimg.com/564x/7c/48/ff/7c48ff7d0a56a0f33c9bfeb25f5678bd--british-rail-steam-locomotive.jpg

 

http://railphotoprints.uk/img/s/v-3/p226740637-3.jpg

 

There is no satisfying some people.

 

Chris

Edited by Chris Higgs
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...