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Whats on your 2mm Work bench

2mm.work bench scratch building kits



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#2026 CF MRC

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Posted 25 May 2018 - 07:16

I was doing it by hand, but I was also kinda making it up as I went along. I have since bought some small tool blanks, including a round one, which should make a difference.
 
I soldered them in place, but I think I will now need to make chimney number 5. The top flange is too big, which didn't really show up until I took a picture of it...
yidGiyE.jpg


Do you turn up a deep base with the chimney / dome Gareth? This helps to give you material from which to make the flare. Your dome looks a bit impoverished in this area. The thick base can then have the diameter of the boiler / smokebox filed in to it so that the best fit is achieved - sometimes useful to use bar of the same diameter as the boiler for checking. Finally the sides of the flare are filed in or ground in with a bur/stone/abrasive polishing tip in the Dremel. I always use 24 hr Araldite to fix boiler fittings, soldering is far too tricky to get them in the correct place.

Tim
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#2027 Donw

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Posted 25 May 2018 - 15:34

If you prefer to solder a chimney on I suggest using a fine gas torch. Tin the base of the chimney and the top of the boiler then place the chimney carefully in position a gentle application of the flame to the chimney should melt the tinning and fix the chimney on cooling. Using a flame means you do not disturb the position of the chimney. BTW do not try this with a whitemetal chimney.

 

 

Don



#2028 Caley Jim

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Posted 25 May 2018 - 19:04

My technique has been to tin both the underside of the chimney/dome and the location on the boiler where it has to go.  I then put a reasonable amount of low melt solder on the underside, put the  chimney in place and apply the iron, at it's high setting, to the edge of the skirt until the low melt starts to appear round the edges.  I once had a chimney come off when the loco was accidentally dropped and then I used Tim's method to re-attach it.

 

Jim













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