Chubber Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 Another regular poster here on this forum has asked me to come out of the shadows of the 'Card' section, and as this model actually includes some plastic elements [yes...you heard right...Chubber now does plastic..] I've put this on here. All but the shop front is card and paper, exclusively Scalescenes stuff, the base model is the TX19 Row of Cottages. The wooden crates and boxes are pieces of a hardwood coat hanger sawn up appropriately and 'got at' with a mapping pen and coloured Indian inks, please ignore the gap 'twixt the shop front and the building, it seems to have opened up in the sunshine and will need re-gluing. The pavement is scribed onto the grey 2mm mount board with a 3H pencil before being given two coats of shellac [knotting]. This hardens it and allows the edges and corners to be sanded, dented and weathered without fear of it going 'fluffy'. It also ensures that anything stuck to it subsequently stays stuck and doesn't simply pull off with a thin top layer of card. The flag stones in the yard are Scalescenes TX21Pavement Slates done by printing slate texture paper onto ordinary 90gm paper and sticking this in turn to A4 self adhesive label paper before cutting into strips in the normal fashion. I printed the slate paper in 'grey scale' setting to do away with the bluey-mauve colouration of the original and made a 'Vee' ridge tile with cross-wise strips of sello-tape, which sadly proves almost invisible after about 3 hours work involving 3 attempts! Note pavement drain gullies for down pipes [i've not seen these on other modellers work] formed by cutting and peeling off a thin layer of the grey mount-board pavement surface and gluing in strips of black paper, then drilling a hole in the edge inked in with felt tip pen. The gate is packeto-cornoflako scribed and painted with grey acrylic. It soaks into the scribe lines quite convincingly. The chimney pots are 1/8" - 3mm dowelling 'twiddled' in a drill and rubbed to shape with sandpaper, then appropriate sized hole drilled in the ends. Back of gate braced in the correct direction, how many otherwise worthy models do we see with it running the wrong way? You can't see the 3/4 height pillars on the inside of the walls, needed on a 6ft wall only 9" thick, note it is not bonded to the flint and render wall as they expand at different rates, another reason for pillars. Sadly a little light is escaping from under the bottom of the wall, so I will have to mix up some grey artist's acrylic with PVA in my Finetip applicator and run a 'seam' along there... Yes, Chubber now does plastic.....scribed 40/1000 columns, and details from little bits of strip and rod, sorry and finally a little 'HowIdidit' for the window frames, now my preferred method. Cutting window frames.. A little jiggery-pokery with some card and scaled downloads from free texture sites Well, I hope that scratches a few itches for some of you, I'm disappointed to have to resort to plastic on the shop front, but my eyesight makes cutting thin strips problematical, at least I can 'feel' the hard plastic. Best wishes, Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted March 15, 2014 Author Share Posted March 15, 2014 Mis-posting Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted March 15, 2014 Author Share Posted March 15, 2014 Seems O.K. at this end, do let me know... Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Davis Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 Brilliant work as always Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benbow Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 Hi Doug Fantastic as ever. I use the same method as you for windows but always seem to get a scratch on the clear window material when I lift the corner of the paper with the tip of the scalpel. How do you avoid this? It annoys me to spoil a window using what is otherwise a brilliant method. Regards Roger Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted March 18, 2014 Author Share Posted March 18, 2014 Hi Doug Fantastic as ever. I use the same method as you for windows but always seem to get a scratch on the clear window material when I lift the corner of the paper with the tip of the scalpel. How do you avoid this? It annoys me to spoil a window using what is otherwise a brilliant method. Regards Roger Yup, It's a bit annoying, isn't it? I have had success with a sharpened piece of plastic strip, like a little 1/8" wide chisel, but perversely a fine pointed new scalpel blades suit me best, just pushed at a very low angle into a half thickness of the paper from exactly in a corner... Good luck, and thank you to all the 'Likes' etc, Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
14Steve14 Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 Doug. glad to see you get a way from the card area, if only for a short while. model looks good. Well it looks really good to be honest. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PhilH Posted March 20, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 20, 2014 True artistry! Superb. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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