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Evening Star DCC


MunichDave
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Ladies & Gents,
 
We have recently converted from German Railways to English Railways after a visit to England the other year, we recently had all our Locos converted from analogue to DCC, and vowed to buy only DCC fitted or DCC Ready.
 
Last week we bought a Evening Star - Model Number R2785 which was supposed to be DC Ready from Holland, When we received it today the Motor is in the Tender and has no DCC Socket ARHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH......  Bus the engine runs really well on analogue.
 
Can you from the following images tell us what model this Evening Star is ?
 
Is it possible to convert to DCC ?
 
If you are aware that this has been already done is there a walk through that will help us do it ourselves.


15604072730_4f6e507d0a_s.jpgEvening_Star by pensionheidi, on Flickr



15604080920_560f346019_s.jpgside by pensionheidi, on Flickr


15788901225_3720075172_s.jpgtop by pensionheidi, on Flickr
 
 
Thanks
 
Dave

Edited by MunichDave
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That  is  quite  an  old  model,  it  would  be  possible  to Digitize it  by Hard  wiring  a  suitable  decoder, I am  sure  someone on here  will point  you in  the  right  direction!

 

I am   a  long  time  railway modeller  but  have  a  much greater  'leaning'  towards  European  & American  railways!!  ( Funny old  world  isnt  it?)

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  • RMweb Gold

OK, here goes ...

 

post-6717-0-29720300-1416000488_thumb.jpg

 

just remove the clips that attach to the motor tabs and attach the red and black decoder wires as shown. Then solder the orange and grey wires to the tabs. You will need a fairly small decoder as space is not great in the ES tender. A TCS-M1 or a Gaugemaster Opti-26 should do the trick (any small decoder will do though as long as it is not a "cheapie" like the basic Hornby one as you will need a more sophisticated motor control to handle the old 3 pole motor ;)

 

Make sure the red and black decoder wire to clip joins are insulated as a short to the metal motor frame could end up bad for the decoder. I use heatshrink sleeving, but with care normal electrical insulation tape should do the job.

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According to Hornby Service Sheet 328D R2875 R2785 should have a dummy motor in the tender but a real motor and dcc socket in the loco.

What you bought does not appear to be R2875 R2785.

 

Edit: I meant R2785

Edited by RAFHAAA96
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@ Redgate Models - Big Thank you for taking the time out to mark up the photo that is much appreciated and it does look easy enough,I will let you know how we go with this.

 

Apologies but  I had promised the boss to take her to Regensburg yesterday for Christmas Shopping, We went by train but coming back late last night we had to get off the train half way back due to track maintenance, we live on top of the mountain near the Czech border and the 72 seater bus ended up in a ditch at one of the stations back to our home town and we got home really late, thanks again for taking the time.

 

@RAFHAAA96

Yer we bought the train on Ebay Holland due to postage costs, sometimes its not worth bothering, I researched the model number that was given on the net and we discovered it should be DCC READY; but when it arrived the other day we discovered the workings in the tender so "Is not as advertised" but if it is easy to convert will have a goas its a super loco and runs rather well, and my son is a bit disappointed as he seems to have done all his home work on it, but it would be nice to know what Model No it is.

 

Thanks Guys

 

Dave & Alex

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  • 3 years later...

OK, here goes ...

 

attachicon.giftenderdrive.JPG

 

just remove the clips that attach to the motor tabs and attach the red and black decoder wires as shown. Then solder the orange and grey wires to the tabs. You will need a fairly small decoder as space is not great in the ES tender. A TCS-M1 or a Gaugemaster Opti-26 should do the trick (any small decoder will do though as long as it is not a "cheapie" like the basic Hornby one as you will need a more sophisticated motor control to handle the old 3 pole motor ;)

 

Make sure the red and black decoder wire to clip joins are insulated as a short to the metal motor frame could end up bad for the decoder. I use heatshrink sleeving, but with care normal electrical insulation tape should do the job.

Hi ,

i'm about to embark on dcc four evening stars, and i came across your post. i have type 2 ringfields and type 3. What i'm stuck on is in your picture you show "remove connector and solder decoder black wire to it" I dont have a connector on the left? only the red on the right..

I've looked at the blue prints to type 2 and there is no connector?......help please  :scratchhead:

Edited by dodgerman20001
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With all wires disconnected from the ringfield motor, check for continuity betwixt each motor brush and the wheels. If the left one is live then we have two scenarios, one is the screw holding the left hand brush touches the motor housing to achieve continuity. Replace this screw with a nylon one. Scenario two is there is a ‘peg’ on the housing touching the brush spring, isolate this from the brush by filing down or inserting an insulator.

 

Once you are sure the motor brushes are not connected in any way to the wheels then proceed as advised before - two wires from the pickups and two wires to the motor brushes.

 

Edited for typos.

Rob

Edited by RAFHAAA96
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