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Judith Edge Class 17 Clayton


Trevor H

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4mm Bits from Old RMweb

Judith Edge Class 17 Clayton

 

by d7093

 

original page on Old RMweb

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??? posted on Tue Jun 03, 2008 5:04 pm

 

After Mr Rushby putting me in the direction of these been used on the York - Aber mail trains icon_wink.gif icon_biggrin.gif and more seriously the soon to be released version from Heljan, i decided Sunday evening it was about time i should dig my kit out of the back of the modelling cupboard and make a start.

 

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As ever the etches are up to the usual excellent standard expected from Mike's kits and along with the thorough instructions look as though it'll be another enjoyable kit to build.

 

Will post some pictures later of this evenings progress

 

Cheers

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??? posted on Tue Jun 03, 2008 10:12 pm

 

Work to date consisted of building the basis of the footplate and the four walls of the cab.

 

I've found the step by step instructions very easy to follow while all the etched parts are individualy numbered and the kit builds in numerical order as per the etches which helps you not to miss out anything or fit the wrong item.

 

The body is fitted to the footplate with 12x 16BA screws and nuts which are soldered to the base of the body, i found this a bit fiddly due to the small size of the screws compared to my accustomed O gauge fingers, but eventually got them all fitted after retrieving most of them out the carpet. icon_smile.gif

 

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All in all so far so good and hopefully another update soon.

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??? posted on Thu Jun 05, 2008 8:15 am

 

A bit more work was done last night on the Clayton, basically this consisted of fitting the cab doors, handbrake wheel and post, soldering the bonnet sides to the body baseplate and fitting the nose fronts.

 

The headcode panel comes as a solid etch which is half etched, i decided i wanted to open the the panel so i fitted it as per the instructions and then opened it up by drilling a few holes then fileing it out, this way the rim would not get distorted or damaged.

 

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The corners between the nose fronts and bonnet sides will need to be rounded off, this will be done with a few strokes of a file to each corner.

 

While the next job will be the fitting of the bonnet tops which i think could be one of the more tricky parts of the construction, will update soon on how i get on.

 

Cheers.

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Comment posted by mozzer models on Thu Jun 05, 2008 8:29 am

 

nice work i have there ES1 on my work bench at the moment the foot plate has 12 parts to make it but this is solid and will not twist icon_thumbsup2.gif

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??? posted on Thu Jun 05, 2008 11:02 am

 

mozzer models wrote:

nice work i have there ES1 on my work bench at the moment the foot plate has 12 parts to make it but this is solid and will not twist
icon_thumbsup2.gif

Thanks Moz, i just love the way all the bits just fit together without the hassle of making them fit. icon_biggrin.gif Look forward to seeing your ES1, always had a fascination for the NE electric stuff but sadly i doubt i'll ever model it.

 

Hope to get one of the new NBL shunters this weekend a model i've always been after.

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??? posted on Thu Jun 05, 2008 8:14 pm

 

As i thought the fitting of the bonnet tops was'nt going to be straightforward and i'd probably would have prefered the bonnet tops and sides to of being made from one unit to fold up.

 

But with a bit of fettling and the fitting of the handrails along the join and it all seems to of come together icon_biggrin.gif

 

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Anyhow the wifes watching BB so think i'll get back to putting another couple of hours in icon_wink.gif

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Comment posted by Klingon on Thu Jun 05, 2008 9:51 pm

 

All looking good there.

I would try brass kits but I'm not sure my soldering skills are up to it. Wires to circuits and tracks, no problem! Brass? Tried once, couldn't get the hang of it! icon_sad.gif

 

Maybe I'll give it a go someday as I want to do a Rolls Royce Sentinel 0-4-0 diesel mechanical chain drive version as per prototype at Rushden Historical Transport Society. But that will probably be about the same time as I continue with the scratchbuilt station that I haven't touched for 4 years icon_redface.gif Maybe I should do some more to it.

 

Looking forward to seeing more!

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Comment posted by Welly on Sat Jun 07, 2008 9:45 am

 

Trevor - thanks for putting up pictures of your building the Clayton kit! I have recently bought the same kit ( posted order on Wednesday morning and kit arrived Friday morning! ) and I intend to run it on P4 track.

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??? posted on Mon Jun 09, 2008 9:16 pm

 

Welly wrote:

Trevor - thanks for putting up pictures of your building the Clayton kit! I have recently bought the same kit ( posted order on Wednesday morning and kit arrived Friday morning! ) and I intend to run it on P4 track.

Welly i hope you enjoy doing the kit as much as i have been, i picked up the new NBL shunter from JE on Saturday so another kit i have to look forward too

 

No work done over the weekend due to watching too much TV with the TT, Moto GP, Formula One and Euro 2008 all been on icon_smile.gif along with some diesel modelling show icon_wink.gif, but will hopefully have a bit of an update later this evening.

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??? posted on Tue Jun 10, 2008 8:22 am

 

Not much done recently but i did get time yesterday evening to do some work on the motor bogies.

 

Original plan was too use the High level ones but after deciding i have quite a few Black Beetles sat around doing nothing i decided to use them.

 

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Some plasticard i think 30 thou was stuck to the sides of the Black Beetle these are the mounting points along with an extra piece of brass angle i fitted to one end of the bogie which rests on top of the Black Beetle, these points will be fixed with either EvoStick or two part epoxy.

 

The brakes consists of two part etch for the shoes and rod, while the sand pipes are 0.4mm brass rod and the guard irons are made from some scrap brass from the frets.

 

The resin bogie sideframes need to be attached which i drilled four 1mm holes in the brass sideframe to give the glue something extra to key too. Although not required as their is plenty of clearance i run a coat of super glue around the brake blocks and any brass that could cause a short from the bogie before it all gets painted, I can't see their been any problems it just something i always use to do on the 7mm RJH kits and its just my way of making doubley sure.

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??? posted on Tue Jun 10, 2008 4:48 pm

 

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A question does anybody know what this is?

 

I always thought it was a handle but on closer inspection it possibly looks more to be a lever of some sought, it is fitted to one side only on both bonnets and seems to be fitted to all members of the class except for a small batch of about ten locos.

 

Shouldn't have a problem modelling something to represent it but would be interested to know what it is.

 

Cheers

Trevor

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??? posted on Sat Jun 14, 2008 2:59 pm

 

A chance to get some photos on the loco's update.

 

All the etches have now been fitted to the body with the exception of the windscreen wipers which i will fit when completed, i decided to fix the roof pernamently with solder as their is plenty of room to get inside with a paintbrush.

 

The next job will be to give my soldering a good clean before fitting the resin detail parts and then finally the painting and weathering.

 

Meanwhile i have a few bits to solder to the footplate.

 

file.php?id=18825

 

file.php?id=18826

 

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Comment posted by Welly on Sat Jun 14, 2008 3:10 pm

 

That's a great looking Clayton, Trevor!

 

My build has stalled somewhat - I'm having trouble with fitting the doorways. Following the instructions is fine if one has a secure and reliable means of holding such narrow strips of etch at 90 degrees to the bodywork whilst soldering them!! I'm also concerned about "sliding" the doors into the half etch grooves - that's OK if I can be sure that they are soldered to the body at just the right distance apart BUT I can't be sure!!

 

How did you do your doorways on the Clayton?

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Comment posted by mozzer models on Sat Jun 14, 2008 3:17 pm

 

very nice work there i got the es1 finished

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??? posted on Sat Jun 14, 2008 6:12 pm

 

Welly wrote:

That's a great looking Clayton, Trevor!

 

My build has stalled somewhat - I'm having trouble with fitting the doorways. Following the instructions is fine if one has a secure and reliable means of holding such narrow strips of etch at 90 degrees to the bodywork whilst soldering them!! I'm also concerned about "sliding" the doors into the half etch grooves - that's OK if I can be sure that they are soldered to the body at just the right distance apart BUT I can't be sure!!

 

How did you do your doorways on the Clayton?

Hi Welly,

 

I too had a bit of a problem with this bit basically my thumbs and fingers were getting in the way, it probably would of been easier if i had had something to hold it in place whilst soldering like those small sprung hairgrips or some blutack.

 

But at the time i didn't so i decided to solder the door recesses and door as a seperate item. I laid one of the sides flat on my workbench with the half etched groove facing up, then held the door in the groove at 90 degree while soldering, i then repeated with the other side so i ended up with the doorway now consisting of three parts.

 

I then offered this up do the doorway and checked all was in line then soldered to cabside, i often find it is best to just tack a small spot of solder and then check all is at the right angle before fixing properly.

 

Hope this is of help

Trevor.

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??? posted on Sat Jun 14, 2008 6:16 pm

 

mozzer models wrote:

very nice work there i got the es1 finished

Thanks Moz

 

I had seen you've got the ES1 finished and a superb job you done with it icon_thumbsup2.gif just wish i could work as quick as you icon_smile.gif

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Comment posted by Welly on Sat Jun 14, 2008 7:03 pm

 

d7093 wrote:

I too had a bit of a problem with this bit basically my thumbs and fingers were getting in the way, it probably would of been easier if i had had something to hold it in place whilst soldering like those small sprung hairgrips or some blutack.

 

But at the time i didn't so i decided to solder the door recesses and door as a seperate item. I laid one of the sides flat on my workbench with the half etched groove facing up, then held the door in the groove at 90 degree while soldering, i then repeated with the other side so i ended up with the doorway now consisting of three parts.

 

I then offered this up do the doorway and checked all was in line then soldered to cabside, i often find it is best to just tack a small spot of solder and then check all is at the right angle before fixing properly.

 

Hope this is of help

Trevor.

Ah, thanks Trevor, I was thinking of doing it the way you had done it - confirmed my idea! icon_thumbsup2.gif

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??? posted on Sat Jun 14, 2008 7:59 pm

 

Right between lazing around watching football, Doctor Who, photographing models and playing on the computer, i have managed to do some modeling as well. Today just seems to be one of those days when you feel you have achieved something without any hassle icon_biggrin.gif icon_wink.gif

 

A bit more work has been done on the footplate with the fitting of the ladders, buffers (i used some from A1 models but instructions suggest Gibson 4903 which are sprung, but i have claimed these for another project), snowploughs (A1 models) and lamp irons to the buffer beam.

 

The fuel tanks and battery boxes were folded and soldered and just fell together icon_biggrin.gif , i drilled a 3mm hole throygh the tank ends (part #57) directly under the footplate, this will alow me to run the wires from one bogie to the other under the footplate. The tanks are also a four sided affair with no base which solders to the footplate, this would be an ideal place to fit a decoder easily or even a speaker if you're into sound.

 

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The Black Beetle is attached to a bearer across the footplate, their are etched spacers under the bearer to adjust the height, the instructions say that the kit requires an extra spacer to heighten the bearer from the footplate, which is not supplied and this is made from a spare strip of etch from the fret and when done it sets the buffer height at the correct level icon_smile.gif

 

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And finally a some shots of all the bits together, the footplate will be bolted to the body with the12x screws supplied which will close the gaps that show between the two halves.

 

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Comment posted by josh993 on Sun Jan 04, 2009 6:48 pm

 

Just been looking through your thread, must say great work icon_clap.gif love your clayton tho icon_mrgreen.gif

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??? posted on Sun Jan 04, 2009 7:42 pm

 

Hi Josh,

Thankyou for the kind comments, The Clayton has been sat around in grey primer for quite a few months now, when i eventually get around to finishing it i'll post some pictures. With a bit of luck it'll hopefully be before the Heljan one appears!!

 

Cheers

Trevor. icon_biggrin.gif

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Just come across this old build report. It seems to be the only one which describes assembling the JE Class 17 "Clayton" in any depth, but is helpful nevertheless. I'm currently awaiting the delivery of an untouched one from eBay, and I note that detailing parts can also be had by using the bits supplied on Heljan spares sprues.

 

I'll probably not be using traditional motor bogies, as I want to investigate a different kind of drivetrain.

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