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Knuckles

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How to bash them to look almost as realistic as scale couplings in a train.

 

I have a handful of wagons converted with Dingham's and so far am happy with the result, they operate well once you've got the hang of making them and compared to some other couplings they don't look too wrong in comparison, not to mention the fact that they are compatible with 3-link, Instanter and Screw scale couplings. I'm a little unhappy with the way the iron droppers look however, so what follows is an experiment to try to improve things visually.

1DING.jpg

 

So from the usual set up I swapped the iron wire for steel Slaters 3-links instead, bent the brass pivot dropper into a shape that would move the chain further forward and upwards. This looks a little more realistic than it dangling too far rear and under. I had to make sure that the dropper eye didn't foul the buffer-beam and that the curved 'elbow / apex' could move enough forward before it hit the lift restraint tab.

2DING.jpg

 

As in the picture, the new shape of the brass dropper looks a little like a 4th link, and in better lighting than the picture - more so. Upon testing it functioned fine. I thought I'd further experiment by shaping the brass dropper into a link, and then fix 2 links to that instead of 3, thus looking like 3 links and not 4. Result was visually perfect, but functionally naff. The brass dropper has to protrude back a small amount to give it the 'see-saw' effect we need for operation.

So before I tried the 2 link version, this is what the 3 linked version looked like.

3DING.jpg

 

After the 2 link failure I reverted to the 3 link version, only this time instead of putting the initial link back in the eye (that was abused out of shape!) I decided to actually bend the brass dropper into a slight curve to retain it. This also pushed the chain forward slightly visually improving things.

4DING.jpg

 

As described in the picture I didn't have a latched end without links but regardless...

5DING.jpg

 

Tadah! Works as well as a standard one! I tried it on the move also, and fine. The instructions said you can't fit links to the looped end. Oh well, this is why I said before I rarely take peoples words as truth without investigating things first, obviously you can. (with a slight redesign)

In my view this has been a fun experiment and one that has worked. In doing so I (we?) can now have a magnetically operated, fully coupled train that finally looks almost as good as scale 3-links, and yet is still compatible with them.

A wagon sitting on a siding with a latch but no links might look a little lacking, but the instructions said the links were optional anyway. I'm repeating myself.

Well, please comment if you like this or have further ideas. :sungum:

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Ta for pursuing this and posting your findings. I've a set of Dingham etchings to play with at some point but had held off due to not being entirely happy with the finished appearance - this goes some way to helping solve that.

 

Thanks

Steve

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Glad I could help. Thanks for the comment. :)

 

I think this might be my new standard. It is just awkward that the latch end needs to not have chains added to get the 'genuine' coupled look. By having more realistic rake / consist the trade off is the wagons snoozing in sidings look less realistic due to the lack of chains. Always a trade off.

 

Options options.

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A question that I have regarding Dinghams:

 

While obviously the leading ramp of the hook needs to be raked back as dramatically as it is to ensure that the other vehicle's loop will readily pass over it, does the capture side of the hook need to be parallel to it?   It does need SOME rake to ensure that the loop will not pop out while being pulled, but need it be as much as it is?

 

If it were less, the looseness of the coupling would be reduced; the adjacent wagons would be closer together.

 

I think possibly a millimeter could be gained.

 

I am not in a position to test this theory out myself....

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...and that has got me to the point of sorting out how, as a dyed-in-the-wool 3 link devotee, I was going to shunt etc effectively. Taking this approach and a knowledge of how a train will break to be shunted should allow a strategically placed wagon with these couplings as described above to be the point of separation, leaving the 'realistic' 3 link equipped wagon(s) in their siding and the 'separation wagon' to recouple to the train to proceed onwards. Local shunting may be an issue, but right now I leave this page educated and for that my thanks are profuse!

 

Best,

Marcus

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I have to add that my premise is that of a local pickup goods in which one or more wagons are shunted by the loco - pushed, that is, with no pulling - and that is often with other wagons still coupled, so the separation point makes sense to me. Of course, others locations did things differently according to manifests, but as I said, my thanks for germinating this idea at a practical level for my needs.

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I have to add that my premise is that of a local pickup goods in which one or more wagons are shunted by the loco - pushed, that is, with no pulling - and that is often with other wagons still coupled, so the separation point makes sense to me. Of course, others locations did things differently according to manifests, but as I said, my thanks for germinating this idea at a practical level for my needs.

 

 

Hello! After almost 2 years I think I only saw these two replies of yours.

 

As I didn't get many replies here or on S4 I'm very happy to read that the entry is helping someone.

 

Have you tried it further if so how are things? I haven't yet as I haven't built any more Dinghams since but likely will.

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