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Back to the point (rodding)


-missy-

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Hello again.

 

My modelling mojo has returned once again. I think its down to a combination of things, shows, steam railways, and quiet weekends have all helped. Using this new apparent enthusiasm I have once again turned my attention to the never ending point rodding for the layout. Its been something that has slowed progress on the layout to an almost standstill. Below is the next installment in the long running saga of Highcleres point rodding, some of you might have already seen some of these elsewhere on RMWeb...

 

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I took another approach this time. A section of rodding roughly 2ft in length is 4 rods wide and I didnt really fancy the idea of individually soldering 5 rodding stools every scale 6ft or so. This meant a rethink to try and speed things up a little so above was the beginnings of a different approach, a 0.3mm thick length of Brass which has 0.5mm wide x 0.7mm deep slots with a 0.7mm pitch milled into it.

 

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This Brass 'comb' was them cut up into sections which could hold 4 rods, which in turn was soldered to a short length of 2mmSA PCB sleepering. For cosmetic purposes (is anyone really going to ever see them for real?) I then soldered 2 etched stools to each end.

 

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The point rodding (0.4mm square stuff from MSE) was then easily slotted into place and the whole thing was held together with a little solder. Care was taken not to hold the soldering iron in place for too long so to unsolder everything (it happened a couple of times which was a pain).

 

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Ok, so not the best quality photos (taken with my phone) but this is the impression the point rodding gives. This particular section still needs to be painted then stuck into place properly (its resting on top in the piccies). To me, this is a mini milestone as producing rodding using this method has made it so much easier, so much so that the rest of it doesnt look anywhere near as daunting to me. Sadly though I didnt produce enough of the bits so it will be back to the beginning soon to produce some more.

 

I hope it looks alright and is worth all the effort?

 

Missy :)

  • Like 12

20 Comments


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  • RMweb Gold

That looks fantastic Julia, and a neat solution to creating rodding stools. May have to steal that one!

 

Tom. 

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  • RMweb Gold

Blimey Missy,

 

Two posts in quick succession! ;)

 

Beautiful work once more.

 

Cheers,

 

Mark

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Thanks folks :)

 

As ever, a first class piece of work. What milling m/c do you use? Richard

 

Its a Proxxon BFW40E (http://www.germantools.co.uk/tools/Proxxon-Mill-Drill-COMPLETE-SYSTEM.html) and I am really pleased with it. Highly recommended machine.

 

 

That looks fantastic Julia, and a neat solution to creating rodding stools. May have to steal that one!

 

Tom. 

 

Good luck with that then Tom! Saying that I bet you make a neater job of them than me...

 

M :)

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  • RMweb Gold

What do you mean 'Hope that looks good enough' that looks as good as anything I have seen in any scale. As to whether it is worth the effort. I think you would have been disappointed not to succeed once you started. The real question now is for the rest of us, are we going to match it? Now where's the Proxxon catalogue?

Don

 

just looked at the proxxon price ouch!

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  • RMweb Gold

I have to say I thought you were bonkers worrying about point rodding in 2mm but have to concede I was wrong. The rodding looks superb and well worth the effort.

 

Jerry

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Thanks guys :)

 

I think thats a resounding yes, it looks alright! That is really encouraging to know, thank you.

 

M :)

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It will take you longer to get there because of the little details. However it is the little details that make your models more special. It looks all the better for it.

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I have to say I thought you were bonkers worrying about point rodding in 2mm but have to concede I was wrong. The rodding looks superb and well worth the effort.

 

Jerry

This coming from someone who modelled 2mm scale onions on an allotment?!  ;)   I have to agree with you though - it's touches like these that make Julia's models stand out from the crowd. When are you starting on the wire runs for the signals, Julia?  :P

 

Andy

 

Don - the Proxxon MF70 is quite a bit cheaper and still a superbly useful machine for 2mm modelling.

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  • RMweb Gold

This coming from someone who modelled 2mm scale onions on an allotment?!  ;)   I have to agree with you though - it's touches like these that make Julia's models stand out from the crowd. When are you starting on the wire runs for the signals, Julia?  :P

 

Andy

 

 

With all my preaching about the broad brush/impressionistic approach I don't think I will be allowed to live those onions down!!

I would have to agree with you though Andy, there are times when going the extra mile really pays dividends. The point rodding was certainly worth the effort,  I'm not convinced making individual prize onions was. I won't be doing it again!

 

Jerry

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Julia,

 

Fantastic!!

 

That point rodding really is worth the effort!!  It has lifted the whole area to another level, it looks extremely realistic, which is I think what we all try to aspire to.

 

Ian

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Hello :)

 

Thank you. Fingers crossed I will get some more done this weekend...

 

When are you starting on the wire runs for the signals, Julia?  :P

 

Hahahaha! I think this is enough for me although I think I have figured out a way I could do it....

 

M :)

 

P.S. I would love to know how to make 2mm scale onions.

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  • RMweb Gold

 

P.S. I would love to know how to make 2mm scale onions.

 

Very fine copper wire from multi strand for the leaves in a tiny blob of PVA - it was about twenty years ago, I don't do that sort of thing anymore!!

 

Jerry

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I would seriously question your intention to paint them, especially in 2mm scale, as I would always use one (or more) of the Birchwood Casey range of gun blues applied with a small brush. Super Blue, Brass Black and Aluminium Black all produce slightly different but very realistic effects. The final result may not be as matt as one might wish (although that may be realistic around stools and especially cranks where oiling may have taken place on the real railway), but this is easily overcome by applying some well diluted matt acrylic varnish - I always use a brand intended for use by artists.

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