Hi Steve, I am fascinated with this.... Can you tell me what it costs to get something like this printed in plastic ? And maybe if you could, post a photo of what it looks like when you first receive it, I cant visualise the "clean up process" to mentioned in your last posting.

I imagine its straight forward to make gaps for the motor and frame when you are drawing this (?)

Although I am sitting here thinking of how you scan a chassis and wheels, to allow the cad program to import it and show the clearances......... Phew.

Then again, thank God for the Dremel

Kevin

Also fascinated by this - what software are you using for your 3D modelling?

Hi Steve, good to catch up with where you're up to with the 3D modelling. Despite being kettles, they look like some interesting projects, and keeping an eye on this may help me with some tank wagon projects and other round bits! Like Paul I'd be interested in what software you are using, I've just started trying to teach myself Blender. Very steep learning curve, nothing of worth created yet...

Hi guys and thanks for the comments. As for the CAD package, I'm using Alibre Design. I initially got this as a free demo online and later upgraded to the full standard version when it was on offer for $99. I've spent the last year or so teaching myself how to use the software and gotten the occasional bits printed as test subjects. I'm now confident with most of the features that the software offers.

EWSJO I've tried blender but didn't get on with it, much prefer Alibre (just personal preference) good luck and I hope to see some of your models in the near future.

Bundeena, most rapid prototyping machines build up the models layer by layer and therefore the produced model will have a stepped effect normally between 0.2 and 0.5mm in height. This needs to be removed by careful priming and rubbing down. The trick here is not to remove detail in the process. I've got the K3 being produced in two materials, one in stainless steel and one using an SLA machine in resin. SLA is the process that many of the RTR manufactures use to produce the initial test models for evaluation before proceeding to the production stages. Intrestingly the SLA model is costing me more than the steel model (you're looking at over ??100 for one of these models). On the up side the SLA model is being printed to a far finer resolution than the steel model at 0.05mm against 0.2mm. Both sound very fine but once you've painted them in primer the stepping effect really does stand out.

As for ensuring that the chassis fits under the body no 3D scanning here (I can't afford it!) so lots of carefull measurements of the chassis with my calipers and fingers crossed that I got the measurements right!

I've had confirmation that I should have the SLA model either tomorrow or by Wednesday so I'll post some pictures within the next few days...

Looks good again! You've clearly got some skill for this!

On the N2, be careful on the chassis. I've got a langley kit and getting it to sit low enough with a Farish prairie chassis is a heck of a job with very tight clearances - I think you may have the same issue with the 4F chassis which I believe will be basically the same height (in terms of the top of the motor that is).

I'll need to try and upload a pic (can't seem to directly upload one here in this reply) to show how low mine got (satisfactory).

Cheers,

Alan

Looks good again! You've clearly got some skill for this!

 

On the N2, be careful on the chassis. I've got a langley kit and getting it to sit low enough with a Farish prairie chassis is a heck of a job with very tight clearances - I think you may have the same issue with the 4F chassis which I believe will be basically the same height (in terms of the top of the motor that is).

 

I'll need to try and upload a pic (can't seem to directly upload one here in this reply) to show how low mine got (satisfactory).

 

Cheers,

Alan

Pic here:

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?app=gallery&module=images&section=viewimage&img=8336

You can see the top of the motor in the cab - it sits pretty high which is why the shell could not be dropped down any further.

HTH,

Alan

Thanks for the K3 pics, please update us as you clean it, and what is the material like to work with? is it a soft(ish) plastic?

I was wondering if cleaning up can lead to digging into the body.

K

PS, I didnt notice before - is this 2mm scale ?