Lincoln central

 

by arff999

 

original page on Old RMweb

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Comment posted by railwaymouse on Mon Mar 16, 2009 7:29 pm

 

I've been toying with a model of Lincoln as well. The whole site is surprising short - hence the attraction. Trackplans vol2 mentioned above by Beast66606 suggests that the three through platforms hold only 7 coach lengths, whilst the inner bay holds just 3 lengths, with the outer bay holding 5.

 

Nat

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??? posted on Tue Mar 17, 2009 2:14 pm

 

Any one have any pictures of the old foot bridge that used to stand at the high street end off the station

JOHN.

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Comment posted by eldavo on Tue Mar 17, 2009 4:07 pm

 

Ooh that's an interesting track plan. Just crying out for handbuilt track! I'm sure it'll look stunning when all laid.

 

Cheers

Dave

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??? posted on Mon Mar 30, 2009 2:51 pm

 

Hi

A small update the layout has jumped frpm planning to building the base boards have been drawn up and a joiner is making them for me. ( as i cant join wood )well not good any ways

the island platform has been cut from 22mm mdf and platform edging is being fitted some track has been purchased (still a lot more to get)

I will post some more picture soon

JOHN

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??? posted on Tue Apr 14, 2009 3:18 pm

 

Hi

Not sure if this is the right place to ask this but here goe

Is there anyone out there who can point me in the right direction to whom to ask to sort out the wiring for my lay out i have no idea how to start conecting things up im giong to go down the DCC road but as a novice im not sure how to do it all oi can manage is a straight piece but then again thats easy.

The track plan is attached so if any one fancys having a go please feel free, all help greatfully received.

 

Thanks

JOHN.

 

 

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??? posted on Tue Apr 14, 2009 3:20 pm

 

Hi

Sorry not a very good picture i have a larger one but cant post it on here so if any one wants to have a look let me know and i can post it to you

JOHN.

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Comment posted by ajdown on Tue Apr 14, 2009 8:00 pm

 

Are you using electrofrog or insulfrog points?

 

I had http://www.photrek.co.uk/railmapcover.htm bookmarked too but it seems someone else got there before I did.

 

Your best bet for wiring is to start at one end and progress across the layout, testing as you go. You may find you have to put a lot of insulating fishplates in if you haven't already done on the frogs.

 

Pick two different, contrasting colours of wire; one for the "top" of your plan, and the other for the "bottom" of your plan (or "inner and outer" if you have a roundyroundy plan). Use some good quality copper tape underneath your layout as a "power bus" (or several pairs if you prefer - one for station, one for yard, one for junction etc, then connect together from a thicker wire and 5 amp 'chock blocks' with feeders), and mark which bus one is for each colour (blobs of paint on the copper every foot or so works fine for me).

 

Always solder under fishplates or rail if you can rather than to the side of the track as it's much neater (be careful not to melt plastic sleepers).

 

Once you start at one end, leave a loco on the track, preferably one with lights fitted. As you solder along the layout in each section, as soon as you find a short, your controller will trip out for you. Make sure you haven't done something silly like connecting a red wire to the blue bus, or something.

 

Try and reset, just in case the trip wasn't related to your wiring (I spent an hour wondering why a piece of straight track I was investigating for bumps kept shorting out before I realised it was the metal frame on my glasses as I rested my head on the board doing it).

 

If it still won't reset (and it's not a cross-colour), look at the points either side of where you've just soldered - do they have the insulating fishplates there? If not, carefully correct before trying again.

 

Don't worry about wiring frogs at this point (if you're using live frogs) because you can do those later. Also, be aware that you may have different issues when it comes to diamonds and slips, if they haven't been insulated all the way round in some cases.

 

Once you've got everything wired (you think), run around the complete layout with a long wheelbase loco. If there are any places it stops, check they have a feed on both rails. If there's a short, investigate again for plastic fishplates etc, this may happen when points are changed but were ok in the other direction.

 

Once you're confident all is well with a long wheelbase loco, try again at low speed with something small like an 08 shunter. Now is a good time to start wiring up point motors and frog changing switches (Peco accessory switch works fine if you aren't using Tortoises or suchlike).

 

As long as you stick to the principle I bolded above, and doing it a little bit at a time with a loco on the track to check for shorts, you will always find that any wiring problems are connected to the very last wire you soldered up, or the piece of rail it's connected to. All DCC controllers will trip out as soon as a short occurs, so you don't need to worry about blowing up a loco - although of course you can use a ??????‚??10 Bachmann or Hornby cheapie chip in an old loco if you're worried at all.

 

Slow, methodical, piece by piece will be much easier than trying to figure it out afterwards.

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??? posted on Wed Apr 15, 2009 6:54 am

 

Hi

Thanks for the usefull information i give it a try

i was going to use insulfrog points unless electrofrog are the prefered i have read lots on the subject but i dont seem to be able to get a difinatave answer, so im a little puzzled more investigation req i think, i dont want to go out and buy them all to find there the wrong type i worked out the cost is around 375 pounds for all off them !! so i cant aford to get it wrong.

JOHN.

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Comment posted by ajdown on Wed Apr 15, 2009 8:37 am

 

Ask 10 different people whether insulfrog or electrofrog are better and you'll probably get 10 different answers.

 

Here's my take on the issue.

 

Postives

 

1) Electrofrog does give better slower running over complex pointwork especially if you have short wheelbase locos like an 08. This is especially important if you're going to have DCC sound, as a momentary loss of power that the flywheel moves a loco over might be enough to reset a sound chip and go through the startup sequence again - which is annoying.

 

2) Electrofrog does look more realistic (real points don't have plastic lumps for frogs).

 

Negatives

 

1) More wiring required for frog power switching (and difficult if you aren't using motors)

 

2) More thought needed in tracklaying due to insulating fishplates etc. Otherwise, with DCC, you probably wouldn't need any insulating fishplates just wiring up every rail section.

 

As you've already calculated, you're going to be spending a huge amount of money on buying the pointwork and want to get it right first time.

 

I'm assuming you're using streamline and not setrack pointwork. Are you using Code 100 or Code 75?

 

Probably the best thing you can do is to buy one small radius point of electrofrog and the same in insulfrog, and set them down on an odd corner with a couple of bits of track, and experiment. If you find you can cope with insulfrog, great, if not then you know what extra work (x however many points are needed) will entail with electrofrog. Then you've only wasted a tenner, and you'll probably find you could use that 'other' point somewhere even if it's off of the scenic area.

 

I know Lincoln Central and it's always struck me as a good layout opportunity if only I had a loft available.

 

I see you're in Sleaford, assume you know about Granary Models at Swineshead?

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Comment posted by PaulCheffus on Wed Apr 15, 2009 3:13 pm

 

Hi

 

Same insulation rules apply to DCC that apply to DC. There is no difference when wiring the layout for either.

 

For me its Electrofrog everytime as I find it produces better running and the extra wiring (although not necessary, Peco points will work without it) is worth it.

 

Cheers

 

Paul

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Comment posted by ajdown on Wed Apr 15, 2009 5:01 pm

 

I was referring to insulfrog v electrofrog, not the actual method of layout power.

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??? posted on Sat Oct 31, 2009 11:53 am

 

Hi Just taken delivery of 2 off my base bords

Ended up using brilliant base bords and i have to say how good they are.

So easy to put together they also lock together with the next so easy ,

Ive been laying out the track on to the board tops and fixing down the island platform

Also looking at point motor positions.

pictures to follow soon, ( just need to down load them from my camera)

Regards

JOHN

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??? posted on Mon Nov 16, 2009 8:36 pm

 

Finnally got round to posting the pictures of my base boards only got round to making 2 so far 6 more to go.

 

 

 

 

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??? posted on Mon Nov 16, 2009 8:45 pm

 

some more with the track work drawn on and the platform starting to take shape

 

 

 

 

 

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??? posted on Mon Nov 16, 2009 9:01 pm

 

Some more with track layed out to check all runs ok,

A little bit off work required between a turn out and the double slipe i ended up moving the turn out away from the double slip to make it smooth between both allowing stock to run smooth

 

 

 

 

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??? posted on Mon Nov 16, 2009 9:04 pm

 

Also now added platform edge drilled holes for turn out motors and been working on drawings off the main station buildings

More pictures to follow

JOHN.

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