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Slaters Johnson 1F 0-6-0 open cab. Blacking up a black chassis.

ROSSPOP

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The built in fold-up hornblocks needed to be free from paint and so as with the 1P chassis I have continued with a combination of Birchwood Casey chemical blackening and Clostermans black etch primer rattle can.

 

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A secondary advantage is also avoiding shiney axles , bearings, wheelrims and coupling rods. All the steel parts are coated in Electrofix to avoid rust.

 

Then its just a case of slowly putting it all back together again. There are some rattle can paints that do not swamp all the detailing with copious amounts of paint.

 

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Just a bit of tidying up and the wheels and motor can be fitted.

 

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The chassis has completed it`s session in the paint shop. It`s a smooth mover and just needs to be wired to the motor which can wait for another time.

 

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Body fits well with no fouling of the wheels or coupling rods........ so on to painting the bodywork......

 

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brossard

I love this loco.  Chance has thrust a part built kit my way so I bought it.  Your notes will be most helpful.  I also viewed your post on the J94 sound file.  Out of curiosity isn't the Jinty a close match?

 

John

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  • RMweb Gold
ROSSPOP
  • RMweb Gold

Hi john

Glad you`ve snaffled up a kit, I needed an 80watt iron due to the thickness on the superstructure. The beading is a bit of a challenge.

 

I`m not an absolute follower of fitting `the exact loco sound` file to my locos. I am a great fan of Digitrain productions though. The J94 sound file is for all two cylinder `shunting`  1F type locos whereas the Jinty is a 3F and has sounds that a 1F would`nt probably have, at leasts thats my reconing....still excellent though.

 

I`ve snaffled up a Sevenscal Pug kit ( now produced by Springside) and am looking forward to fitting Digitrains `pug` sound file.

 

John

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brossard

Hmmm 80W, that's a lot.  I have a soldering station rated for 50W, I guess I'll just have to see.  I also have one of those monster irons, maybe I'll need to use that.  Not very precise though.

 

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/weller-universal-100-140w-soldering-gun-kit-0586365p.html#srp

 

I just got a Digitrains system for my Fine Scale Brass J50, quite possibly it's the same as yours.

 

My strategy going in to 7mm was to stick to RTR, that didn't last long.

 

Cheers

 

John

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ROSSPOP
  • RMweb Gold

I did exactly the same as you John.

 

Started with Tower Brass RTR and Lionheart locos, but I never seemed to maintain the emotional attachment and I ended up selling them to fund loco kits.

 

After 40years of modelling though a good kit built loco will always out perform an RTR loco and the personal satisfaction is priceless.

 

I started in 2008 and bought one of those Digital Soldering Stations( that are really only designed for the electronics industry). It did`nt like being used at the high wattage end of the spectrum and gave up the ghost one month over the 1 year warranty ( waste of £150). It only coped with two brass etched loco kits.

 

I reverted back to the tried and tested Antex soldering irons. 40watt and 80watt plus a gas/flame torch........ sorted.

I have also got a 150watt iron but has been a waste of money as it`s never been needed.

 

Cheers

 

John

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brossard

Interesting John.  I bought a Weller digital station a number of years ago and have used it frequently - hasn't given up yet.  Mind you it hasn't gone to full warp like yours.

 

I'll just have to find my way I guess.

 

Over the years I have to admit I'm more interested in building than running, but all that stock has to be operated.

 

I can source gun blue locally.  I checked Electrofix and was wondering whether nail polish might do the same - it seems to have the same characteristics.

 

John

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