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brossard

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    A Bloke in Quebec

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  1. Quite right Michael. When the board is bare of scenery, moving it single handed may be OK, even if you do drop it - no harm done. As it gets more developed, you may wreck the scenic items if you drop it (how do I know?). I did mount my boards on a workmate vertically to do the wiring. Trying to wire underneath and on your back is one of the levels of Hell that Dante didn't mention. Yes, my layout is in the basement so there are stairs to negotiate. I let other more brawny people do the lifting. John
  2. Baseboards are pretty heavy, but awkward as well. IMO, it wouldn't be wise for one person to move boards, especially up and down stairs. You should phone a friend. I made end plates for mine that bolt on to protect rail ends. These have handles. John
  3. Just caught this thread. My primary interest in not pre grouping but my fried has a strong interest in NBR. I like building kits so we have some carriages: These are 0 gauge from 62C models. Carriage sides are indeed crimson lake. Brake end is vermillion. Other carriage ends are CL. I am building a second 4 wheeled brake, but gas lit this time. Another shot showing the brake end. John
  4. I note that in an earlier post, low relief industrial buildings were mentioned. I've just been doing that on my 0 gauge BLT: These are all from Scalescenes and cut back as needed. From left to right: T002b (Free) Low relief warehouse, modified, T024b Boilerhouse, T026a Factory Warehouse. Between the water tower and creamery (also Scalescenes) is an ultralow relief T024c Workshop. I have to do a lot of work for Scalescenes to work in 0 gauge. My track plan for what it's worth: John
  5. Good, I really like Scalescenes for the variety and cost. I'd be interested to see how you get on and can answer any questions. I don't know anything about your experience but I would suggest you try something small first. There are a couple of freebies. John
  6. I've been painting models for over 30 years in 00, and lately in 0. My methods are simple and suit my needs. If you were painting professionally or for museum use, you might need to get more sophisticated. Painting starts even before the model assembly is done because some areas may not be accessible afterwards, so you need to watch for that. Once ready for paint, I use either grey or red oxide primer as an undercoat. These are widely available at DIY and car places. Use grey for top colours like black, green, blue etc. Use red oxide for top colours like red, brown etc. Leave the primer to cure at least over night. I don't usually use an airbrush for the top colour, but when I do, I generally use acrylic (lots of people swear by enamels so it really is a personal thing). For the top coat of goods wagons, I'm happy to brush paint. My wagons all get weathered so, to me, no need to get fussy about exact shades. Coaching stock is a different matter. You need to get the right colour and will get best finish with an airbrush (although I have managed to paint my 0 gauge coaching stock by brush and acrylic paint to a high standard). I cheat and use lining transfers, which it has to be said are not easy. After you are happy with your wagon or coach, spray on a coat of gloss varnish. Lots of brands out there, I used to use Testors Glosscote but now I find Krylon works for me. Transfers should be applied to gloss surface (matte has microscopic pits that make it hard for a transfer to stick). Once the transfer is on and dry, spray on a coat of matte varnish. John
  7. Looks good, a far cry from what we used to get. Be careful, Gresleys had the vacuum pipe on the solebar. BG's had a Guards Brake mechanism which can be seen on mine. John
  8. I bought these for my Gresley kits. Very useful drawings, however, next to no info on underframe detail. John
  9. Here's my 0 Gauge Kirk Gresley BG with super detailed underframe: Anyone who has done a Kirk kit will know that provided detail is sparse. I did a lot of research to get this result. Apart from the major parts, much of the fiddlyness is scratch built. I used the Kemilway manuals extensively to understand the details. Sadly, Kemilway seems to have gone. I have the manuals as PDF. Warning these are biblical in scope. There are a number of bought in components. When I was doing 00, I detailed quite a lot of older coach underframes, all LMS, using Comet parts. John
  10. Excellent! I do have a soft spot for pre grouping. Looks like the opportunities for stock are getting better. I have built a pair of NBR coaches (62C) with a third languishing until I get more time. There's a Connoisseur (Claymore) NBR J83 on the to do shelf as well. These are not for me but for a friend who is passionate about NBR. John
  11. The internal switch failure is not uncommon. There's a video: I opened all my Tortoises and found several with dodgy switch wipers. I repaired some using small nuts and bolts and others, that were loose, with general purpose glue. John
  12. Thanks Hal and Schooner. That was the vision I had. John
  13. I am excited to debut my Balmoral Road in 0, see link for my thread. John
  14. I have done this a few times. The only thing is the adhesive sheets are quite expensive so you will want to make sure you get the most out of the sheet. Another thing I have done is glue the print to the self adhesive sheet using a glue stick. A good way to use up left over adhesive label. John
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