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Faded Glory - Modelling a faded Mainline 09 Shunter...

James Hilton


I've always had a thing about Class 08s and 09s - and when younger rememeber seeing the Bachmann model appear as a pre-production sample in every years catalog and the model never make it to my local shop. [


When I returned to the hobby two years ago the Bachmann and Hornby models were available, with pro's and con's to both. I personally prefer the shape of the Bachmann model and they run very well on Paxton Road. I recently chose to model 09007 based on the Bachmann model of 09006. This required more extensive modification than previously and I also undertook a heavy fading and weathering job.


This article has appeared in Model Rail (December 2009, Issue 138) and is reproduced here with kind permission of Model Rail Magazine.


Faded Glory...

Modifying a Bachmann model to represent work worn 09007.

Article courtesy Model Rail Magazine - Issue 138 Page 92 - Words and photos by James Hilton




When Bachmann released it's 08/09 model back in 2000 it took the 00 RTR market by storm and was released in a myriad of liveries over the next few years. Good tooling design allowed the variations in locker, access and cab door arrangements to be modelled as applicable to the prototype and the good running characteristics and well captured character has ensured it's continued place in the catalog.

The Hornby challenger arrived a few years later. The higher level of intricate detail really sets the model apart from the Bachmann version but has been made available in less livery variations.


I personally feel the Bachmann model captures the character of the prototype more successfully - and for those with a stud of these I present a case for detailing and upgrading the basic Bachmann offering to better reflect individual prototypes and close the detail gap with it's Hornby competitor.


This article describes the modification of Bachmann 09006 into 09007. Although some of the steps are unique to representing a Class 09, some of the other tips and detailing are applicable to a standard 08, and the weathering tips can apply to any model, Bachmann or Hornby.


The twenty six original Class 09 were built between 1959 and 1962. Based upon the successful 08 (itself a development of prototypes dating back to the LMS) and specifically aimed at the Southern region they were geared for short trip work with a higher maximum speed of 27mph (versus 15mph of the 08) with the expense of a reduction in tractive effort. They were also equipped with high level air pipework for shunting Southern multiple unit stock. The original build are now classified 09/0 as during the 1992 a number of Class 08s were rebuilt with higher gearing for use on local trip freights across the UK ??“ categorized 09/1 and 09/2.


After privatisation the class found themselves re-distributed around the UK as they're higher top speed meant they were useful shunters with the advantage of running trip workings between yard and customer premises. A testament to their usefulness, until late 2008 no Class 09 had been scrapped (however a number have been preserved).



I always find my modelling much easier when basing my efforts on photographic evidence. These days the internet is a very useful tool and a few hours trawling the photo sharing sites often yield more than enough detail shots. My favourite is community.fotopic.net. You just type in the loco number, select 'photos' (rather than galleries) and you usually have at least one page of photos to select from.


In this case I chose to model 09007 in circa 1999/2000 condition. At the time the loco sported a very faded Mainline livery, but had not been fitted with the Oleo buffers it received sometime during 2003. I managed to collect a good selection of front, rear and side shots to enable specific details to be captured and to guide the fading and weathering process.


A selection of scrap plasticard off-cuts, various wire grades (some from Ratio kits, some old guitar string) plus some old plastic sprue - along with a set of Hornby bufferbeam pipework from a Class 31, were the only parts required for this conversion. I used some Fox transfers (the small black numbers on the back buffer beam, silver numbers on the sides and the post 1998 warning flashes) and Humbrol paints and varnish to complete the basic transformation. This was weathered using a mixture of a faded varnish coat, dry brushed colour variation, washes using Humbrol paints and some Mig weathering powders - all detailed in the Step by Step guide.



The project was a good little evening project that stretched over two months. I am happy with the finished model and it fits perfectly with my ficticious MoD depot set north of Winchester on a spur of the old Didcot Newbury and Southampton railway.

The modifications are within the capability of the average modeller and really transform the already good Bachmann model into an excellent representation of this diminutive, mundane but essential shunter.


Next up - a two tone Mainline grey liveried Class 58, and getting around to finishing my layout!



1) Preparation

The first thing to consider is the basics, and checking body details against prototype photos. Identify the changes required, remove unwanted details (marker lights, lamp irons etc) and make a list of things that need to be added or modified.


2) Rear high-level pipework

The arrangement of hi-level pipework looks complicated but is formed from ____ thou wire formed to shape by eye and small pliers ??“ fixed with superglue. The bracket is L profile plasticard, the pipes themselves more wire, and the lever from the Hornby Class 31 bufferbeam pipework detailing kit. In addition the lamp irons have been repositioned and an extra one added.



3) Front high-level pipework

The front air pipework looks slightly more complicated but is formed in the same way ??“ and is self supporting. Extra lamp irons were added to the sides of the radiator grill.




4) Front Steps

This step (excuse the pun) transforms the Bachmann model. I believe the Bachmann front steps are about 2mm to narrow. They are simply removed by popping a knife edge behind them and easig them out. I remove the handrails completely. The steps are then sliced out and replacements added in plasticard, secured with superglue, before being re-attached using superglue.


5) Rear pipework

The extra underframe pipework on the Hornby model is exquisite. I have gone for merely a representation, which tricks the eye into seeing the full detail. Formed from some .017 gauge guitar strings and 0.5mm wire following photographs. Best fitted before the cab steps, and you can gently remove the sand boxes to aid fitting. The orange pipework is attached directly to he coupler mounting. A representation of the small air cylinders behind the cab steps is made from sprue off cuts. The antenna was added to the cab roof to represent the cab-shore radio telephone fitted for mainline running, the part coming from an A1 models etch.


6) Bufferbeam detail

I have used the pipework from a Hornby Class 31, but have successfully used Class 50 air pipework. Alternatively you could use your preferred supplier for the air and vacuum brake pipework. I also added a pipe joining the two air tanks together, formed from an old guitar string.


7) Re-numbering and paint touchup

The original numbers were removed carefully with brake fluid and a sharp scalpel. These were replaced with Fox transfers from a pack designed for a Class 37. Any silver numerals in the standard tops font could be used. The small number on the buffer beam is from the Fox pack for Railfreight/Civil Link front numbers. The warning flashes were appied directly over the originals, and extra ones added where necessary. All transfers were set using Micro-Set solution, and Micro-Sol was used on the numerals to allow them to sit more closely over the raised detail.


8) Touch-up

The detailing parts were touched up using Humbrol paints using photos as a colour guide. In addition the body colour was touched up where details had been removed. I took the opportunity to dry brush on some faded Mainline blue at this stage to give a variation in the fading effect.


9) Chassis weathering

The chassis was weathered using the techniques described in Martyn Welch??™s excellent book ???The Art of Weathering??™. Matt black, gunmetal, matt chocolate and matt tan were applied (along with some thinners) to the outside frame using photos as a guide. Whilst this was still wet some ???black smoke??™ Mig weathering powder was stippled into the paint with an old brush. The coupling rods were drybrushed and given a dirty wash (matt black and matt chocolate) and the pipework and tanks given some weathering using matt chocolate.


10) First pass fade and weather

I wanted to give a good variation in colour, not just fade the whole model. To that end I applied a little Humbrol Matt 25 to the body using photographs as a guide - to give a greater variation in tone.

I made up a faded varnish (approximately 50% thinners, 50% matt varnish with a touch of matt white). I used Maskol to mask the window panes and applied the varnish with an airbrush. In this case I used purely white to tone the varnish, but it is possible to add a sandy colour or a green depending on the effect you wish to obtain. A good explanation can be found here:



11) Body weathering

Once the varnish has thoroughly dried I added the exhaust staining using Mig weathering powder, and the oil, fluid and rust staining on the body and around the hinges using Humbrol 98 matt chocolate and 33 matt black were applied by brush with some thinners. A cotton bud is useful at this stage to soften the edges as the thinners soaks into the varnish. It is most important to use a prototype photo to base your model on. A closely observed but badly executed weathering finish is much more realistic then a perfectly applied work of fiction.


12) Finishing touches

You should now have a faded, stained, work worn model. At this point review to check no details have dropped off - and if necessary replace these now. Finishing touches then involve adding a greasy mix to the buffer faces (Humbrol 98, 33 and 53 - then stippled with Mig black smoke powder whilst wet) and some chipped paint on the grab rails. Check the wheel treads are clean and get the shunting and trip work started on your layout!









0.5mm nickel silver wire (spare from a Ratio kit)

0.017 gauge steel wire (assortment from used guitar strings)

Stainless steel off cuts (from S-kits brake disc inserts)

Plasticard (various thicknesses and profiles)


Recommended Comments

What spoils it for me, and would be MY first change, are the oversized awful coupling rods. They just scream, "Model!!!!!" Or even, "Toy!!!!!!"

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Cheers! I find my models evolve over time and in fact I've written up a list of improvements to undertake on EWS 08683 which includes fitting handrail knobs to the front step handrails, better bufferbeam and underframe pipework, slight tweaks to the weathering and potentially new coupling rods.


In general viewing and operation though I find I can live with the Bachmann rods - although the Hornby ones are definitely a better attempt!

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Guest oldlugger


Very nice work James! The weathering is excellent. I modified my Bachmann BR blue 08 by altering the outside frames, or more specifically, the leaf springs and support rods. I cut off the existing moulded springs and rods and made some new leaf springs from plasticard, and rods from very thin brass wire. The difference in appearance is amazing particularly when you view the loco from the front or the back, but it is very hard to do and time consuming. I also added loads of other details. You can see a rather basic photo of it on my layout "Ballast Quay" posted under "Layout Topics". This photo does not do it justice!




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I've spotted that already Simon - fantastic work - hopefully you can be encouraged to show more on a blog or detailing thread? :)

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I've spotted that already Simon - fantastic work - hopefully you can be encouraged to show more on a blog or detailing thread? :)

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James, seriously consider replacing those rods with the Brassmasters ones - they are the only thing that detract from an otherwise very nice model.

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Thanks Martin. It'll go on the 'must do one day' list :)

As I said I tend to cycle through my models, so I suspect I'll try them out on 08683 first :)

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  • RMweb Gold

James - Thanks for posting this as didn't manage to source a copy here in Sunny Spain B)


I do like the extra work that you have put into the model and the weathering is spot on :icon_clap:



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